My altanator/ stator/ generator...what do I have here?

[basketcase]

is because you've been stalled with trying to successfully-attempt to get all-FOUR wires in-through your chosen tubing-conduit.
Thus I'm surprised, as it turns-out that you had such an easy-time of it.
Have you checked to make-sure that it's still thin & narrow enough (with it's four 14ga wires) to fit-through everywhere it has to ?
Also, is your resulted custom-made alt.cable very pliant & flexible, or has it ended-up rather on the stiffer side ?

The delay had nothing to do with motorcycles at all. Rather my newly departed mothers estate. I am the executor and it is time consuming.
The cable with the 4 wires measures about 5/16 diameter after shrinking. It is 3.5 feet long. 2.5 of tubing with 6" leads at each end.
It is very flexible. I cant try it in the engine at this time because it is at Jimmy's getting rebuilt.

__ Next you can go-ahead & cut-down your red-wire & black-wire to the most suitable pigtail-length for connection to the pair of stator-post ring-holes. _ Then solder the red-wire to the upper positioned ring-hole, and the black-wire to the lower-position.

Should they run up thru the bottom like my original ones?

__ Later, before proceeding-on with connecting your white & yellow wire-leads, you'll need to unsolder the two stator-winding lead-ends from the stator-plate & separate, and then determine which lead-end is circuited to your black wire-lead.

De-soldered and determined.

Should I also run the white and yellow wires up from the bottom like the red and black wires. If so I will put them in the same short piece of tubing till the red wire terminates. Then continue across the stator with a new piece of tubing to the other wires.

Do you happen to have such tubing in a size which will suitably-fit your 14ga.wire-leads, as well as a suitable size that'll fit-over the extended-pair of those wire-leads ? Bob

I have a collection of different sizes.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The delay had nothing to do with motorcycles at all. "

____ Yes I understood that from your last-post, I merely meant that I'd HAD my-own particular suspected-suspicion for your extended return-absence.


" Rather my newly departed mothers estate. I am the executor and it is time consuming. "

____ Last year when I-myself was absent for a few weeks, it was for the very-same type of reason ! _ (I still have yet to completely recover from that great-loss, so certainly your situation is understood.)



" It is very flexible. "

____ That's pretty-impressive, so I'm thinking that it's quite probable that you've likely come-up with the best selection of construction-materials for a custom-made replacement-alt.cable, done by anyone ever-yet.



" Should they run up thru the bottom like my original ones? "

____ I'm not sure of what you mean exactly, however both the red & black wire-leads should be routed (with the stator-plate) the same-way as the original yellow wire-leads had been done by the factory.



" De-soldered and determined. "

____ Okay, then my-own sense of logic would expect that your white-wire ought to be connected-together with the particular lead-end that's circuited with the black-wire, (as they're both 'opposites' of one-another),, thus leaving your yellow-wire to be connected to the remaining lead-end (that's circuited [through it's stator-winding] to the red wire-lead, [which also allows a bit of logic to be applicable]).
____ (For anyone-else who may also wish to construct their-own custom-made alt.cable,, if ya wish to employ the MOST-logical colored-wires for your alt.wire-leads, then those wire-colors ought-to be: 'YELLOW with red-stripe'; 'YELLOW with black-stripe' ;; 'GREEN with red-stripe'; 'GREEN with black-stripe'.)



" Should I also run the white and yellow wires up from the bottom like the red and black wires. If so I will put them in the same short piece of tubing till the red wire terminates. Then continue across the stator with a new piece of tubing to the other wires. "

____ Again, I'm not sure of exactly what you have in-mind. _ But if I understand you correctly, then that particular added attention to detail seems even tidier (and tougher to accomplish) than that which I already had in mind for you to get done.
This part of the job is certainly the most complex (as far as attention to careful handing of details is concerned), to get carefully accomplished !
If you possibly come-up with more than one routing-method (for getting the extended-pair of wire-leads over-to their intended connection-points [with the pair of lead-ends]), then perhaps you may wish to post pictures of such, for getting a tie-breaker opinion.
(See included pic, for a related-detail.)
__ Of-course all four wire-leads should run-through the same shrink-tube until the red and black wires need to divert-away (to their intended terminal-points), thus-then leaving the remaining-amount of the 6-inch lengths of yellow and white wire-leads to be routed-over to their intended connections (with the pair of lead-ends).
__ The yellow and white wire-leads should be routed (away-from their diversion-point with the red and black ones), so as to best be kept away-from the flywheel-rotor & crankshaft areas,, whilst at the same-time, not allow any possible stress on the lead-ends (once connected-up).
Once it's realized exactly how long the yellow and white wire-leads have to be (in order to be best-routed to their intended connection-points), then they both ought to be kept-together within a suitable piece of shrink-tubing (that's not too long !). _ And in addition to that, EACH of those two wire-leads should have their very-own suitably-sized piece of shrink-tubing slid-down/over itself, so that after each has been cut & soldered* (to it's very-own intended lead-end), those (smallest) pieces of shrink-tubing can then be slid-down & over the (cooled-off) solder-connection (so as to THEN-after be shrunk & firmly hug the lead-ends as well, [as well as possible]). _ Then after that, the larger piece of shrink-tubing (which has-been placed-over the yellow AND white wire-leads), can then be slid-down partially-over the two smaller (now shrunk) pieces of shrink-tubing, and THEN also shrunk-down (so as to hug the two others together).
(* When you make your solder-connections between the thin lead-ends & their intended 14ga wire-leads, that wire-size mismatch-connection should be carefully considered and handled so that the rather thin lead-ends don't get put-through very-much undue strain.
__ Under less restrained conditions, I'd recommend a relatively elaborate rapping-arrangement between the single-strand lead-end & the multi-strands of the 14ga.wire,, but in THIS rather restrained situation, I'd suggest 'inserting' the lead-end into the center of the batch of strands (of the 14ga.wire), and merely-just rely on complete saturation of your solder throughout, to hold the two firmly fastened-together. _ [So now you realize my concern for the particular selection of solder-blend,, so make-sure the lead-ends are well tinned, before-hand.] )



" I have a collection of different sizes. "

____ After reading the above, you should now realize the reason for my asking about your selection of shrink-tubing sizes.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

Last year when I-myself was absent for a few weeks, it was for the very-same type of reason ! _ (I still have yet to completely recover from that great-loss, so certainly your situation is understood.)

I find some comfort in going to Dad and Mom's house and fixing the Ducati. Knowing that Dad is up there doing the happy dance cause his bike is going to live again. For the first time in my life I am a orphan.....it takes some getting used to. I hope that you too find some comfort like I do.

[basketcase]

Here's what I have so far. I know it isn't exactly as you instructed, but I feel confident that it will work and last.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I know it isn't exactly as you instructed, "

____ In what ways is it any different ? _ The only difference I can see, is that you didn't include any suitable piece of added shrink-tubing to additionally-cover BOTH the yellow & white wire-leads together, (as they make their path over-to their connections with the lead-ends).
__ Of all the times I've done this job, I-myself never routed both of those wire-leads over-across the top-sides of both of those two empty core-lugs. _ Rather, I'd either route them both together between the under-sides of those lugs & the stator-plate (to then both be connected-up near the left-side of the left-lug), OR, both routed-together under just the right-lug only, after which point ONE of the wire-leads would then be diverted over & across the left-lug (so as to then have the two separate lead-end connections physically-separated further-apart from one-another).



" I feel confident that it will work and last. "

____ Indeed I agree that your work-job appears to be quite sufficiently-executed !
However I have a suggestion, of-which you may wish to add...
__ I've included a zoomed-in view of your stator, in-which I've inserted a red-outline indicating the area where there's an attached terminal to which you could employ a tie-down strap so as to help assure that your extended wire-leads stay-put down-against where they're laid.


____ Thanks for the pix of your alt-stator & your modification-work.
(I wouldn't be surprised if others PM-you inquiring if you'd do their's for them as well.)


NiceJob-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

so as to have the two separate lead-end connections held more physically apart.

I see what your saying.
My thought was to not move them unless necessary. I didnt want to crack the varnish off or break the copper. That would have been disastrous. And since they were already routed over to the grounding tab, i connected them right there.

[basketcase]

__ I've included a zoomed-in view of your stator, in-which I've inserted a red-outline indicating the area where there's an attached terminal to which you could employ a tie-down strap so as to help assure that your extended wire-leads stay-put where they lay.

Ahhhh....that is the exact reason i cleaned the solder off the grounding tab and opened up the hole before i soldered the wires. Wise minds think alike

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I see what your saying. "

____ But since you've done such a thorough-job of getting the shrink-tubing inserted all the way on & up-to the base of BOTH lead-ends, that makes any such further separation quite unnecessary.



" My thought was to not move them unless necessary. I didnt want to crack the varnish off or break the copper.
And since they were already routed over to the grounding tab, i connected them right there. "

____ You certainly went the route of due-precaution, which is the wisest way to go without any prior-experience with working with such difficult to replace materials.
So I believe you've done it the best-way.
__ You ought to feel some pride & self-satisfaction in completing such a superior (to stock) alt.cable & modded stator-connection job !
Have you yet checked it over with an ohm-meter to make-sure it's electrical-circuits are as they should be ?


____ So what's next (down the line) ?
Do you yet have any plans for the load-system which you expect your Duke-project to run ?
With your alternator & cable modified as you've now done, you can thus choose ANY type of charging-system conceivable !


Happy-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

You ought to feel some pride & self-satisfaction in completing such a superior (to stock) alt.cable & modded stator-connection job !
Have you yet checked it over with an ohm-meter to make-sure it's electrical-circuits are as they should be ?

Thanks for the compliments! And thanks for the thorough instructions.
I did check continuity......before, during, after....and over and over.

So what's next (down the line) ?
Do you yet have any plans for the load-system which you expect your Duke-project to run ?
With your alternator & cable modified as you've now done, you can thus choose ANY type of charging-system conceivable !

I was looking at this regulator rectifier: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... -Rectifier

Its rated at 42 amps, and I believe you said my stator is a 60 watt. Is that still the case after the modification.

For now I just want to get the bike running, but eventually I want to get it street legal.

[JimF]

Sorry, I was just surfing the messages and I am surely late to this discussion.


I just wanted to say the 42 amps is wickedly large overkill. Not that it will hurt anything, it's just way over-specified. You'd be lucky to pull 10 amps out of your system, so you have a safety margin of 400%. The 42-amp number is what the part is capable of handling, not what your system is capable of generating, but then I have a feeling you knew that already.


Lastly, as I look at the photo, it kind of appears to me to a potted full-wave bridge rectifier. From the size and look of it then, I would be surprised if it has a built in regulator, especially one that can handle 42 amps. I would expect it to be much larger and bulkier as a regulator usually includes a solid state silicon device that needs lots of heat sinking surface area.


So what am I am trying to say is that you may have a rectifier that will convert your AC voltage to DC voltage, but it might come out unregulated, which means that with varying engine RPM the DC voltage could rise and fall between some wild extremes.



Jim