New 250 mk3 Owner

[Jon Pegler]

That quantity of plating would normally cost in the region of £100-£125 with my local plater.
£460 sounds very expensive to me.
Interesting bike all the same.
I once built a special using a tank and seat from a TS.

Jon

[Glawster]

Who's your local plater Jon?

[Jon Pegler]

I use a guy in West London.
Been using his services for 25 years now.
However, he's not always quick.
I've been waiting two months now for some items to be chromed.
Let me know if you need his services.

Jon

[Ventodue]

The same can't be said for S&T Chrome Plating in Bristol. (snip) Any advice on Chrome plating appreciated!

Well, Derek, you gotta remember it's a crappy job at the best of times. So not a trade necessarily likely to attract the Brightest and the Best, if you get my drift ...

I used to use Marque Restore in Coventry. Maybe not the cheapest, but reliable. They did what they said they'd do, when they said they would - which ain't too common in the world of platers. Didn't lose any bits neither - which is common in the world of platers, and a right royal PITA. And the quality was fine. I found the owner/Director, Alan Olner, approachable and straight (not that I'm saying that other chromers aren't, you understand ... .)

Go http://www.marquerestore.co.uk/index.html

I haven't had so much fun in years! I have a neighbour who's popped out of the undergrowth and has a 350 mk3, 350 racer and 851 Tricolore lurking in his garage. Never met him until now!

Yep, just one of the many advantages of owning an ancient pile of Italian hardwear ...

Ciao

Craig

[Glawster]

Thanks Craig,
Photo emailed to Marque Restore for an estimate. I also sent to 3 other platers and RS Chrome in Manchester have come back with £210 so I'm already down to by 50% on the S&T Bristol quote...

Another couple of questions....

I didn't yet do anything with the carburettor. Is it worth getting it ultrasonic cleaned? Any UK recommendations on this?

I checked the valve clearances and found

Inlet 0.10mm
Exhaust 0.15mm

Seems a bit tighter than the quoted spec in the Haynes manual...but there are several different values for different models.

Derek

[Ventodue]

I didn't yet do anything with the carburettor. Is it worth getting it ultrasonic cleaned? Any UK recommendations on this?

Well, yes, I do normally get old carbs cleaned, and any worn bits replaced and/or put back to spec at the same time. I really do this just as a matter of course - it simply eliminates something from the chain of possible problems. (That said, I think you have a VHB 29?; so no pumper = one less thing to gum up .)

Following a recommendation from Dell'Orto UK a few years back, I use Mike Davies at JRS in Swansea:
http://jrs.uk.com/jrs/JRS_Home.html

Again, not necesarily the cheapest; but he does the job, to time and budget.

I checked the valve clearances and found:
Inlet 0.10mm
Exhaust 0.15mm

Seems a bit tighter than the quoted spec in the Haynes manual...but there are several different values for different models.

Well, always be careful with any Haynes manual . But it just so happens that I have an owners handbook for your very model of Mark 3 (in French & dated May 1972). So:
Inlet 0.05
Exhaust 0.10.

Which is exactly what we'd expect ...

Ciao

Craig

[Glawster]

Hello again,
Refurb is going quite well and I managed to fit the new wiring loom over the past few days. I'm just waiting for the wheels, a few parts rechroming, and a few other chrome parts which it's cheaper to replace. I've been dealing with Barry Jones of Classic Ducati and he seems to be a very helpful guy. Also he has a great collection of singles.

A question. The sprockets are currently 17 / 45. The engine sprocket is a little worn so I thought I would replace it. Does anybody have a view on the best gearing for a modest powered 250? It felt quite high geared when I rode it - but then again, I haven't ridden anything this low on power since 1976....

Also, the previous owner recommended disconnecting the battery when not using the bike to avoid the battery going flat. He used an ugly connector on the negative lead from the battery. Do I need to do this? If so I guess some kind of switch on the negative battery terminal would be the most elegant solution.
Any advice appreciated!

Cheers,
Derek

[single]

Hi Glawster,

Your bike is looking really good - nice effort ! So I am new to the forum and have discovered the search function in the top right corner - it is very helpful for gathering thoughts. Check a thread called "Questions about choosing sprocket sizes/final drive ratios". I found it the other night right after ordering my driveline! Bob is very insightful and left me feeling that I half know what I'm doing ! I am lightening up with the 428 chain as the 530 seemed overspec and Bob confirms this. I prefer the alloy sprockets for weight reduction including unsprung weight and overall weight, something I discovered from my racebike with magnesium wheels/alloyspockets/racechain - braking power and brake feel are much improved as the centrifugal force is exponentially reduced by any weight reduction in the wheel, including lighter tires and sprockets ! The gearing I am starting with will be 15/41 @ 2.77 - I learned from Bob perhaps I should have perhaps increased both sprocket sizes for increased parts life, as you should discover from his posts in that sprocket thread. I was hesitant to increase to larger sprockets perhaps because they would look too big or more like a scrambler/scr. There's alot of science / physics? at play but astetics seem paramount with the classics - my bike perhaps won't be as classic or true as yours as I am going to try to lean abit towards performance and your bike is looking very classy! pr

[Bevel bob]

I would expect to experiment with gearing. I used to ride a Mach 1 on the empty roads in the mid 1960's , and its was geared to a (very!) theoretical speed of 115mph at max revs. This was in no way a problem and made for very relaxed high speed cruising. In top tune 104 mph was possible, and it took a good 650 brit bike to beat it. On todays roads this gearing would be very hard work. I do ride a highly tuned 250 still which is geared lower to cope with traffic ( its still horrible in traffic ) and this has spoiled the charm of the bike . A bit like running a clubmans full house Goldstar on trials gearing, (pointless).It will all depend on the use you intend, and whether you want to experience what we once had.If you look around you will find most of these bikes are pollished and parked,the world has changed and if you want to find out what it WAS like, take out a high geared 250 onto empty sweeping A roads at daybreak on a warm Sunday and play .

[Ventodue]

Hi Derek,

Good to hear things are coming along. Yep, Barry Jones is a Top Bloke, as is Nigel (aka Lacey Ducati) who can be found on this Forum from time to time.

FWIW:
1. According to the handbook I have, 17/45 is the original factory gearing (= 1:2.647). Now, and "Each to their own", of course ; ... But, unless common consensus says otherwise, I tend to give the factory the benefit of the doubt with this kind of thing, i.e. take it that they had the knowledge to correctly select a ratio which suits most regular uses.

After that, it's as Bob says: what do you want to use it for? Speeding round the Leafy Lanes à la Bob of Old might inspire you to raise the gearing, while taking it hill climbing could push you in the opposite direction ..

What does Barry advise?

2. Unless you have a leak to earth, you don't need to disconnect a battery "to stop it going flat". Batteries self-discharge when not in use because of the ongoing chemical process by which sulphur migrates from the electrolyte on to the plates. It's an inherent characteristic of all batteries, and there ain't nuttin' you can do to stop it (altho' keeping the battery cold slows it down somewhat).

The typical self-discharge rate of a lead acid battery is about 5% a month, btw. And to reverse it, you just need to charge the battery, nat'.

But if it still bothers you, why not simply take the earth lead off when you park up?

Ciao

Craig