1966 Mk3 Restoration

[Stan Lipert]

I thought that I'd share a Mk3 restoration that I'm doing at Northern Ohio Ducati/Triumph.
Starting with a nice original, and mostly complete bike.
Engine strip:






Cases degreased and bead blasted.
Test fitting the tranny, Dellorto SSi 29D on the bench:


I needed to replicate one missing tool box mount:


Ready to tack on:

[Bevel bob]

Heavy wear on back face of sprocket, mine was worn on front face, alignment issues??.

[Stan Lipert]

Bob, heavy wear is right! This particular bike was well ridden, new sprocket is on the way from Nigel.

I tried a new "cast" finish of my own, but will go back to painting it as original:



The brass parts are replated with the Eastwood tin/zinc kit.

I borrowed the press at Twisted Motorsports, and used my own home brew press tools for the crank dis-assembly:



Cleaning sludge from crankpin:

[graeme]

Hi Bob, my sprocket also has wear on the inside.
Perhaps from frame and swing arm flex?
Also noticed the front down tube has moved to the left when the front engine mount plates are loosened. Was never this far out before, but its done a lot of work.
When the engine is bolted in and tight the alignment of wheels and sprockets are very close to aligned.
I think (know) these frames can move around a lot under load. Add the vibrations of a 450 and I wonder how much longer before stress fatigue cracks appear?
Graeme

[Bevel bob]

If the chain adjusters are in the wrong position and a dry chain in use ,that would be enough.Use some sealer on the splines, (i should have!!).

[Stan Lipert]

New crank bearings installed (Thanks, Nigel!) and I started shimming bevel gears with only the right side half of the crank. I will double check with a complete crank later!



Installing guides starts with beveling the small step in the Kibblewhite guides to prevent galling the bore when they go in.



I like to heat the head evenly with Oxy/acetylene, monitoring temps with my IR gun. I'm using the old guides as bore gauges to choose +.10mm guides in the cleaned stock bores.



I'm looking for 300-320 F. Guides will go in at room temp with some moderate force. Head heated first, then a wipe of grease in the bores, plus greased guides. The guides heat up and grow in a couple seconds, so the fitment when they seat will be the fitment during operation. I tested the fitment after installing by tapping then out a little, and then back in.
I don't expect to see head temps past 250 F, even on a track, so I know that the guides will be tighter in use than when installed.



Nice fit. When cooled down, the bore pulls the guide in around the waist for an interference fit. I know that with the smooth bore and smooth guide outer, that there is max surface area gripping the guide. Time to ream to size.

[Stan Lipert]

Hand reamed guides to 8.00mm, straight flute chucking reamer fro the local machinist supply. Seats were at the full face width of 2.4mm!



Using my Serdi Micro to cut the new seats @1.6mm. The cutter is hand ground with a radius and angle to blend into the head.



Valves lapped in to check the seat placement and give a little better seal. Fuel hose is spun in the palms with light pressure.



Valve sealing is checked with a flashlight both in the head and in the ports, with the spun valve.

[Jordan]

Nice photos. Glad to see someone heating the head before removing/installing guides.
Ducati suggested this job to be done cold, which must remove a little metal from the head.
That's why they sold oversized guides I guess, but it's not very nice to do it that way I think.
I wonder if the rationale was that it doesn't risk the seats coming loose?

Jordan

[graeme]

I like the fuel hose on the valve stem idea
graeme

[machten]

I like the look of the valve lapping contact surface. Perfect!

That looks like exactly the angles and surface sizes that have worked well for me.

Kevin