RT Rebuild and questions

[wcorey]

My right peg has a slight up angle similar (but maybe a bit less) to yours and appears to be intentionally made that way as opposed to being bent after the fact. It has the stamped diamond pattern metal plate as Eldert mentioned. To straighten it, seems that the peg could be milled/ground down where it stops on the pivot instead of bending the arm.




Can't say as I ever recall seeing one with rubber pegs. It seems odd to have a rubber over the return spring and with no provision to hold it onto the peg. Or does yours have a protuberance of some kind on the end? Is there any evidence on yours of welds being ground off where the plate may have formerly been? Would've been two beads on either side, one pair near the base and one pair near the end.

Can't locate the left peg, which is really annoying me, not sure where it got off to. Just as soon as I buy another it will turn up...

Bill

[graeme]

Hello Bill,

The right peg mount is nearly level when fitted to the bike, it's the left that seems to me to be bent.

Here is the left peg (the right is the same style) without the rubber. The rubber is a bugger to get on and harder to get off.
Also the parts manual I have showing the 2 different foot pegs. It does not show the rubber though.



Here is the bare foot peg assembly fitted to the bike, you can see the main curved bracket's end, where the fold up piece sits isn't flat.
I can see the fold up piece makes the up angle worse, but my question is whether the curved piece should end flat? In which case it's bent.



Hope that makes sense, and thanks for your input.

Regards
Graeme

[wcorey]

Yah, looks to me like the arm is bent, shouldn't be that difficult to bend back. I'd bolt it to something solid (other than the bracket/motor case), take the peg off and find a heavy pipe to go over the end of the arm (or drill an appropriate hole in the end of a solid bar) and have at it cold. Probably wise to put a spacer in the peg slot to avoid pinching it. I bet you'd be surprised how easy it is to move with a few feet of leverage...

Interesting pegs, haven't ever seen that version, could've been a special request by the importer as was typical then. Maybe not originally intended to have rubber over 'em? (but nice to have the option).

Could you tell me the length of your kick stand? The end has been cut off on mine (someone likely lowered the rear susp and 'adjusted' the stand) and I'd like to know how much it's been shortened before I weld a plate back onto the end.

Bill

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ The foot-peg's support-bracket certainly seems bent upward.
__ How does the condition of the motor-casing's mounting-bosses (where the fastening-bracket is fastened to the frame & case), appear to be ? _ Those alloy-bosses are often (at least) cracked-up on such off-road w-c.models. _ And I'd think that yours were at least stressed if that peg-bracket was on your Duke at the time when it got bent.
____ As for the two different types of foot-peg styles, I had almost mentioned earlier that I've been aware that there were two different peg-styles, (neither with rubber-covers), which originally came on the 450R/T-models,, but I don't recall which was the first style employed on that Duke-model.
__ What color of paint(s) do you detect has been on those pegs & brackets ?


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[wcorey]

...Those alloy-bosses...

The ones on mine are all steel, real boat anchors, over 2 lbs for the right peg/arm/bracket assembly. I bet the longer left side with kickstand is close to 5 lbs. What does tend to get bent up on these is the tab/mount for the kick stand, probably from kick starting with it down and/or forgetting to put it up when underway.

Bill

[graeme]

Side stand
From the center of the pivot bolt to the longest tip of the flat plate that touches the ground is 300mm

[DewCatTea-Bob]

By: wcorey...

...Those alloy-bosses...

"The ones on mine are all steel, "

____ Not sure what you meant for-sure but, I was actually meaning to refer to the "alloy" MOTOR-CASE's support-mount "bosses" (where the longest mounting-bolts fit-through).
Those (rather weak) bosses are what can become "cracked-up" (when those bolts are loose enough to allow slight bending).


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[wcorey]

Not sure what you meant for-sure but,

Ah, I thought you were referring to the cross piece/bracket that goes between the 'arm' and motor case...


Bill

[graeme]

Hi Bob,
The two lower "lugs" on the cases are in good condition with no signs of trauma.
This is why I'm questioning the shape of the curved cast steel foot peg mount. It would take a lot of force to bend it that far without damageing the alloy case lugs. Or as you say the bolts were very tight.
Perhaps they aren't the original set off this bike?
The kick start stop bolt locating lug at the rear of the case, below the breather, was cracked and bent upwards. I originally thought from a kick back, but I'm now thinking it was from a crash where the kick start had been knocked backwards cracking the lug?
That and the usual lower front case fins were repaired, there was no other case damage evident.

The foot peg assembly and rear brake peddle seem to be from the Brunellian English era, very un Italian in weight and design. I have a Commando and they wouldn't be out of place on it, where cast iron and cast steel rule!

The colour was silver like Bill's picture.

Regards
Graeme

[graeme]

Regulator question please,

I'm using a scrambler alternator and flywheel and the regulator I have is a 4 wire reg, 2 yellows, red positive and a negative (I think, as it's at a mates place for him to test that it works)

The alternator has 2 yellows and a red center tap wire.

Can I just blank off the red wire and use just the 2 yellows?
I've never done this before.

Thanks
Regards
Graeme