Bevel Gear Damage Question

[blaat!]

Home made cam holder tool:

cam-tool1.jpg

cam-tool2.jpg

Made from plastic to avoid damaging the cam lobes.

The generally accepted "best practice" is to tap the bearing carrier out from the far side with a rod. Prying it off is not a problem except that you risk damaging the gasket surface, especially the edges of it. If you can remove it without damage, then no worries.

[guzzijon]

OK, good! Thanks for the info and pics!

[joe46ho]

Jon, once you decide what you want to do with the engine, and before you go spending 50 euros plus conversion, and shipping on just a shaft/gear... let me know what you need, as I and other members on here have a lot of spare 250 parts... I know for certain I have at least 2 or 3 spare set of bevel gears I could sell, and a ton of other parts (mostly 250 narrow case) I try to clean up and save any and all bevel gears I can get my hands on.

Joe

[Eldert]

the 250 bevelshafts that Gio sells for 50 euro are for a widecase and wil not fit a narrowcase

Eldert

[Bevel bob]

You won't be able to use a rod through the cam to tap off the end cover as a roll pin is fitted.Try tapping the cover round a few degrees to loosten it. The new gears will need re-shimming ,buy some spare shimms and study the books or get someone to help.

[blaat!]

Bob,
Where is the roll pin? I looked back through my Clymer manual for all narrow case 160 monza through 350 sebring and they recommend using a 1/8" x 7" rod to drive the carrier out from the far side through the cam (funny to see that they used inch dimensions for working on a metric bike). Mik Walker also recommends the same method, so you know it must be acurate I also looked at the spare parts catalog, but couldn't find it in there. Is the pin perpendicular to the axis of the cam?
-Jim

[Bevel bob]

Thought i could see one in the foto, maybee not,usually fitted to incrase flow to cam lobes.

[guzzijon]

Jon, once you decide what you want to do with the engine, and before you go spending 50 euros plus conversion, and shipping on just a shaft/gear... let me know what you need, as I and other members on here have a lot of spare 250 parts... I know for certain I have at least 2 or 3 spare set of bevel gears I could sell, and a ton of other parts (mostly 250 narrow case) I try to clean up and save any and all bevel gears I can get my hands on.

Joe

Will do! Thanks for the offer Joe!

[double diamond]

Some cams will have a roll pin inserted in the threaded end to restrict oil flow out the end of the cam and force more oil out the holes in the cam lobes.

Another approach to removing the cam/bearing cap: Remove the four screws fastening the cam bearing cap. Remove the cam nut. Tap the cam through the cam bevel gear and remove the gear. Remove the woodruff key and tap the cam the rest of the way through the bearing. Works best if the cam is at TDC on compression. Other cam positions may prevent the cam from clearing the rocker arms.

If the engine is locked up you can easily remove the cam nut without use of a cam holder tool by just leaving the head on the motor and loosening the cam nut before removing the head. The locked up bevel gear train will prevent the cam from turning.

BTW Jon, when you tear into your scrambler motor, be sure to mark and record the flywheel position before you remove it. Matt

[guzzijon]

Thanks for the info Matt. Can you also tell me if the cam nut is reverse thread? Since the motor is locked up anyway, I may want to try what you suggested.