Identification

[double diamond]

There are a few points to consider in determining the value of this particular Mk3. 1. specification 2. originality 3.condition 4. rarity. Specification is pretty obvious but you’re bringing in this comparison with the Mach 1 as a standard bearer for value. I get the impression that the Mach 1 was, if not common, at least present in the Australian market and evidently a model that Australian enthusiasts defer to when considering value. So a few comparisons to the Mach 1 are in order. Significant differences between the two that you want to consider are: a. the electrical system, the handlebar/fork crown arrangement, the tachometer the seat. The Mach 1 has an electrical system incorporating a battery and the attendant charging system and employs battery/coil ignition. This electrical system also includes a horn, idiot lights, a key operated main switch and a different horn/high/low switch. The Mk3 has a much more rudimentary system that includes a coil in the “magneto” for powering the ignition and another for powering the lights. No horn, no idiot lights, no battery, no main switch. This makes the Mach 1 a better real world street bike and the Mk3 rather marginal in this respect. The Mk3 was cataloged in the US with handlebars (actually “cow horn” bars) mounted to the fork crown. However, a number of Mk3’s were either imported with or converted to clip-ons and the smooth top clamp specification. Since the unit in question doesn’t have this more desirable equipment, this would tend to lower value. The Mach 1 came with clip-ons/smooth crown as standard equipment. The Mk3 came standard with the Veglia white face tach and cam driven tach drive, both very sought after equipment. The Mach 1 did not include these as original equipment although many have had the tach added. The flat bench seat on this Mk3 is original specification. The Mach 1 apparently came standard with a stepped dual seat as original. Many appear with the optional “bum-stop” seat, again, a much sought after option. In addition to these specifications, this particular Mk3 has the rearset foot controls which do not appear on many US Mk3’s although they were depicted as original equipment. The cow-horn handlebars and rearsets must have made for a curious riding position so US Mk3’s typically employed the standard foot control arrangement typical of Monza models. This is the specification frequently found with US Mk3’s (standard foot controls, high bars mounted to top crown) although the rearsets occasionally crop up. Original rearsets are much sought after equipment that are also standard equipment on the Mach 1, so, a plus for the value equation. Another plus is what appears to be the original number plate/windscreen, kit megaphone, manual, origin papers and tool kit (if verified authentic). Condition of this Mk3 is original/unrestored and a bit neglected. There’s some corrosion in evidence and the tool box “Mk3” decals are missing. On the plus side, the tank and seat are in remarkable condition, so good in fact that the paint on the tank may be suspect if claimed to be original. Inspect closely. Otherwise the condition is very believable. The question of restored vs. unrestored condition also comes into play here. Most Mach 1’s or Mk3’s commanding 5+ figures are perfectly restored to a very high standard. However, there seems to be a certain shift in market sentiment of late. With all these perfectly (overly?) restored examples about, perhaps all this perfection has become wearisome. They become just another perfectly restored example among many. The “patina” example is becoming increasingly rare as all these restorations proceed, and perhaps more valuable. An unrestored bike is obviously original rather than a representation of what the bike looked like when showroom new. Original paint and pin striping can be replicated, but one cannot buy an original 50 year old paint job. Paint will fade, craze, discolor and display the effects of age. To some, this is fascinating and very satisfying to behold. This condition may be considered by some as the significant feature in determining value of this particular bike. It depends if you prefer the patina or consider the bike as a starting point for a restoration. Some examples obviously demand a complete restoration such as when original surfaces have been lost or are too compromised to preserve. Such is not the case with this particular bike. Consider this carefully as once lost that patina can never be replaced. Rarity can be considered as a local and global attribute. Globally, the Mk3 is not particularly rare but in the Australian market perhaps it is. The Mach 1 was not officially imported to the US market, making them locally rare which tends to inflate prices for them here. But the Mk3 was imported in significant numbers so there’s a fairly well established market in the US. Was the Mk3 imported to Australia? If this model is locally rare, this would probably tend to increase its value in the local market. Another characteristic of the Australian market I’ve noticed is that y’all are just plain batty about Ducatis and spend some downright stupid money on them. But you can’t take it with you and what better way to spend the cash? Just as it sits today, I’d value this Mk3 at $8000-$8500 depending upon a few items that demand closer inspection. It doesn’t approach the highest values due to the level of corrosion in spite of the patina argument. This could be addressed if one could find descent condition identical original pieces to replace the worst of the corroded bits. The “patina issue” is a moving target. I believe the patina bikes are increasing in value at a greater pace than restored or in-need-of restoration examples. Depending upon how an individual buyer values this consideration, the patina condition of this example and the Australian “rarity” question could push the value near or over five figures. MW

[plahiff]

Thank you all for the replies much appreciated and very helpful. Rick, yes the ebay bidding was very unusual to say the least. It would seem that myself and one other were having a bidding war and also trying to fish for the reserve price. This stopped when the bid was increased by almost $4000 by the "buyer" with no feedback. No surprise when that sale fell through. I was then offered the bike as the next highest bidder. I was a bit doubtful as to the pedigree of the bike but with your's and other members help now feel a lot more confident that I have purchased a Mark 3 and haven't paid too much for it . I will decide later wether to restore it to its former glory or keep it (and use it ) as a 46year old, wrinkles and all. Which ever way it was born a Mark 3 and shall remain so.
Kind Regards
Paul

[Bevel bob]

In the UK Mark 3's were imported with the Mach 1 red and silver finish , We bought a new Mach 1 in the sixties, It had a seat with no bump stop,a Smiths RC probably added by the dealer and a remote float. A lot of Mark 3's intended for the USA finished up in the UK. The Mach1 is the most sought after in the UK and the Mark3 narrow case is not really known ,most associate the name with the later widecase models.If i order Mark3 parts from OZ widecase stuff turns up.I would suggest you get the bike roadworthy and ride it to find out if you can cope with the daft kickstart , footrest positions , and mag starting. Then plan your restoration around a spec that satisfies you in looks and function, bugg*****r what anyone else thinks!!.

[double diamond]

So, what did you finally settle on with the seller as a fair price? MW

[plahiff]

thanks for your marvellous input MW. It's not so much that we're batty for Ducati's it's just we are all so filthy rich and need to get rid of excess money (I wish), or maybe we are just plain batty. I ended up paying $10000 for the bike. Not sure about the history of the Mach1 or Mark3 in Australia. My first encounter of any Ducati was back in 1968 when I was 14 it was a brand new MarkIII Desmo 250 I was immediately jealous of the owner and in love with the bike (at the time I was riding a BSA Bantam Major). I got my licence on a 860 GTS but never had the opportunity to own a single until now ( kids left home, business going well and plenty of time on hand etc.etc.) Maybe some one can enlighten me about early Australian Ducati history ?
Kind Regards
paul

[DewCatTea-Bob]

By: plahiff...
" photos are still on ebay here "

____ Except for the "M!" motor-case stamping, it appears exactly as a 1966 'Mark 3' !
__ I've heard tale that Berliner converted many Mach-I models into Mark-3s, so as to take advantage of the desired popular reputation of the Mark-3.
I never bought-into that story/claim myself but, I've since seen & heard of so many like that, that it just may be a true tail, after-all.


" selling as a 1966.
what would be a rough idea of it's value compared to a Mach1 ? "

____ While the Mark-3 was certainly the most desirable, the Mach-I was more rare from the beginning! _ And while those two aspects tend to cancel-out (thus leaving the two models more similar in value),
'RAREness' is the TOP name-of-the-game ! _ And a factory-original Mach-I is now far more rare !
So I'd say, (all else being fairly equal), that an unaltered Mach-I model ought be worth at least 20% more than an (equal condition) Mark-3.


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[Bevel bob]

How about getting orriginal parts rechromed ,lightly repair chipped paint, fit a battery and sensible ignition and ride it a lot.That way your options are still open.

[plahiff]

Thanks Bob. What parts do i need to change over to battery ignition? Does anyone have all the parts?

[Bevel bob]

There will be others with more know how than me here, my narrow case has the 60watt alternator , the battery bikes advance and retard, and a coil type that works with a battery.Its possible that your bike has the 40 watt alt that works with a special coil and advance and retard to give battery less ignition, This system tends to make starting harder with kickbacks .I would swop to the Mach 1 /Mark 3 system for a much easier life, It may be possible to use the 40 watt alt ,others will advise, My bike is now12volt with an ignition booster and points. Some here may be horrified at the thought of altering an orriginal bike,if you can start and cope with the existing system or don't intend to ride much??.Parts do come up in time, switch gear and wiring will also need altering . I started with a poor bike so there was no issues.