Bulb options for 6V and 12V

[machten]

All,

My 68 M3D's 25W/25W incandescent bulb blew the main light filament the other day causing me to look for a replacement bulb. The usual local options didn't have one which prompted me to troll through the forum and look around the internet. Whilst doing that I came across Classic and Vintage Bulbs based in South Australia...

http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/

I also found this 2009 price list PDF on a suzuki (can I use that word here ) club's web site. I've loaded it up to a "cloud computing" storage site as a bit of test of this functionality, so if you can't access it for some reason, let me know. The link is...

http://www.mediafire.com/?mhr5apr873jztrh

My stock w/c charging system supports the somewhat dim stock lighting fine but I'm planning on testing out their 35/35 6v Ba20d base halogen which is a straight swap for what i assume is my stock incandescent bulb, and their 6V Stop/Tail LED, primarily to avoid changing the rear bulb due to vibration related failure, but also to be sure that the current draw won't push me over the edge with uprating to a 35/35 (I have read in the forum it should be fine anyway, but I've never measured my actual charging system output - I just know I never have to charge my battery if I use the bike with lights on only for night riding).

Anyway, with all these bulb options listed, and some limited agencies in the USA, UK, Canada and NZ, I though it might be of some interest to the forum.

Kev

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ I don't think I've ever realized that any w-c models ever came-stock with mere 25/25w headlight-bulbs, (that's the stock wattage bulb for n-c Mk3 & SCRs), I thought sure they were 35/30w !? _ Anyhow the made for USA model-versions came with sealed-beam headlights of that higher rating.
__ Just to keep any further doubt from being spread here, I shall point-out that in at least two other threads, I've indicated that the stock w-c charging-system can handle a 40/45w sealed-beam all day long (so long as the engine isn't left constantly idling of course).
And with a LED.taillight (which uses next to no power at all), ya're then back in the ball-park of a stock light system-load.
In fact with the LED.taillight, you ought try & see how something even more powerful (such as a 60/55w bulb), tests-out for you. _ Cuz if you're not a putter-butt on your DESMO, it's charging-system then ought to stand-up to such an increased load-system.


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[machten]

I was hoping you'd jump in with this Bob...

In fact with the LED.taillight, you ought try & see how something even more powerful (such as a 60/55w bulb), tests-out for you. _ Cuz if you're not a putter-butt on your DESMO, it's charging-system then ought to stand-up to such an increased load-system

...cos that's what i had in the back on my mind with the use of the LED tail light, and I noticed the same vendor had a 60/55 6v Ba20d base halogen bulb (I was hoping to see something around 45W, but there wasn't). Do think the wiring is up the current draw for a 60W bulb, or would I need to beef it up? One of the attractions of using these bulbs is the simplicity of it just being a straight swap of the bulb which is why the 35/35 felt "safe".

As to 25/25 being stock ...that what it says in my W/C parts manual for Monza, Scr, MK3 and Mk3D (part number 0180.38.305 - Lampada biluce 6V - 25+25W), and that was what was in it.

Kev

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Do think the wiring is up the current draw for a 60W bulb, or would I need to beef it up? "

____ The stock 16-Ga. wiring itself can handle a 60w.bulb's current-draw well enough, if the system is 12-volts. _ However a 6-volt system's wiring has to handle twice the amount of current (for the same wattage) ! _ So to make life easier on the light-switch & related wiring, a relay-setup ought to be employed (for stronger than 45w.6v-bulbs).
A suitable relay-setup is very easy to add, and the added lighting is worth doing the work, for anyone who rides at night (more than rarely) outside of town.


" As to 25/25 being stock ...that what it says in my W/C parts manual for Monza, Scr, MK3 and Mk3D (part number 0180.38.305 - Lampada biluce 6V - 25+25W), and that was what was in it. "

____ That's odd, as I'm fairly sure I've seen in a n-c.parts-book that a Monza is to be fitted with a 30/30w 6v.bulb. - (But it's been a really long time since I've looked-up such in my parts-books !)


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[machten]

Just to tidy this up...

Went to get the halogen and led solutions mentioned above. The LED is not for sale any longer. Apparently there were "problems" with it. I did pick up a couple of 35/35 halogens, and they seem a big improvement on lumens/candle power. Shame the led solution didn't prove reliable

Kev.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The LED is not for sale any longer. Apparently there were "problems" with it. "

____ You mean the SIX-volt taillight LED-bulb ?
I'm reasonably sure the '12-volt' version ought still be available somewhere.


" I did pick up a couple of 35/35 halogens, "

____ Your 6v.35w headlight-circuits don't really NEED to be run with a relay-circuit, but since they draw even greater current than a (more common) 12v.60w h-l.circuit, you really ought to consider the added jump-wire which I've recently covered-on in another thread. - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=706&start=10#p5520


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[machten]

____ You mean the SIX-volt taillight LED-bulb ?

Yes.

you really ought to consider the added jump-wire which I've recently covered-on in another thread

Thanks Bob. That sounds like a sensible and easy mod. I'll look at doing that.

Kev

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ You mean the SIX-volt taillight LED-bulb ?

Yes.

____ I believe that a 12-volt LED.taillight-bulb would still be bright enough to work fairly well (in a 6v.system), during night,, (however, it might look rather dim with direct-sunlight shining on it).


" Thanks Bob. That sounds like a sensible and easy mod. "

____ So do you-yourself already completely understand the logic/reasoning behind the intended function of the added piece of wiring, or are you partially taking my word for it somewhat ?
__ While the jumper-wire does provide improved/extra pathway for current-flow to the headlight-bulb (& load-system), the main intention for that mod is to make use of the stock key-switch's (otherwise unused) 3rd.terminal, for the purpose of possibly increasing the switch's life-span. _ As it's much easier on the switch's internal-contacts, to have the load-system's total current-draw divided-up & shared (through more than just one contact-set). _ And besides saving the unique switch, high current-flow is also (somewhat slightly) less impeded through the key-switch.
__ Also, in order to fully take advantage of the added jump-wire's extra current-flow advantage, the ground-wire side (of the circuit for the headlight-bulb), ought to be increased as well.
For this, a thicker gauge (like 14 or 12Ga, [in place of the stock 16Ga]), ground-wire should be useful. _ However I've always preferred to ADD another 16Ga ground-wire, connecting to another/SEPARATE grounding-point.
While creating such seemingly-small extra current-flow capability (to the headlight), may (sensibly) SEEM to be insignificant,, it ought be kept in mind that small (successive) increments in current-flow actually result in greater (& greater) amounts of light-output !


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[machten]

____ So do you-yourself already completely understand the logic/reasoning behind the intended function of the added piece of wiring, or are you partially taking my word for it somewhat ?

I feel I understand it. I got up to 2nd year physics and engineering before opting for pure maths and computer science as a double major in my uni days. I've had to go back and read the old text books since joining this forum to refresh my memory, and I'm still struggling with the "6v/12v/alternator/coil options" on the other thread. But loving it. In comparison, the wiring/relay issue is fairly easy to understand.
Kev

[machten]

DCT Bob,

16-gauge orange-wire directly-from the key-switch to the main-light fuse

Mod done. Thanks for the tip. Also thanks for the magnified wiring diagram in that thread. I used them to help me straighten out a few other little gremlins that were in there at the same time.

Kev