battery problems

[john jupiter]

The lens and reflector fit like a glove.. The cibie lens is fit into an aprilia bezel and it matches the headlight bucket which is also aprilia..
I can't remember the last time i rode at night , infact I'm much more of a morning rider. Im not sure the benefits of a 12v upgrade are really worth it for me. Starts are always one or two kicks max.
What if I just find an h4 45w bulb with my 6v system?
Or maybe use a 12volt bulb even though when used in a 6volt system it will be dimmer than the watts its rated at?

Replaced the old bullet connector on the blue ignition switch wire, it not longer heats up

I have run the ohm flip flop test with an older conventional meter this mlrning and i get the same 150k, .30m readings on one diode and no reading on the other...
Looks like I will need a new r/r huh... or maybe replace just the faulty diode?? Have you ever attempted this sort of replacement?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The lens and reflector fit like a glove.. The cibie lens is fit into an aprilia bezel and it matches the headlight bucket which is also aprilia.. "

____ Great, that is very welcome news for those who've been looking for a way to use H4-type light-bulbs in their otherwise stock headlights !
Do you happen to know of a source for such ?


" I can't remember the last time i rode at night , infact I'm much more of a morning rider. "

____ Then why did you bother to install such a powerful light ?


" Im not sure the benefits of a 12v upgrade are really worth it for me. "

____ The biggest expense of doing so would be the battery. _ The switch-over is really fairly simple and doesn't require anything to be done with the stock alternator.


" What if I just find an h4 45w bulb with my 6v system? "

____ If you could do that, it would then adequately cut-down your load-system's demand for power and allow continued use of the stock-wiring, and quite probably solve the run-down issue you've experienced.


" Or maybe use a 12volt bulb even though when used in a 6volt system it will be dimmer than the watts its rated at? "

____ Using a high-power -(over 45w) 12v.bulb (using only 6-volts) would result with a 12v.60w-filament -(for instance) consuming a bit more than half-power (perhaps about 35w), which would be okay except that the light would then be pretty dim ! - About useless at night, but might still be adequate for passing local daylight-on laws.
__ You might possibly try installing a headlight-flasher or a high-power turn-signal flasher-unit, (as I've done!), as that cuts the overall-power used by the headlight quite a substantial amount !
The intended purpose of 'headlight-flashers' is to make motorcycles more noticeable during the daylight-hours.


" Looks like I will need a new r/r if that older style meter finds readings that do not match the "good diode" huh? "

____ The other diode doesn't need to "match" your found good-readings, it only needs to be similar.
__ If you did need to replace the stock R/R.unit, there are other good options.


" or maybe replace just the faulty diode?? Have you ever attempted this sort of replacement? "

____ I-myself have never bothered to replace either of the R/R.unit's contained rectifying semi-conductor units (which actually aren't plain-diodes), but replacement-units could possibly be installed after the old-units have been pressed-out (from the metal-casing's base).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[john jupiter]

The headlight as it is now was installed by the previous owner(i bought it this past spring) I do not know of a source but will be happy to post photos if i can find a way to upload photos from an ipad/iphone.
The 75w bulb was installed by previous owner too.. i had no idea what type of light was supposed to come in this duke and since it still isnt all that bright i didnt really suspect anything out of spec.

I used the old style meter this morning to retest the diodes.. Same results occured: 150k, .31m on one diode, unable to post a reading on the other diode.
Do you have any specs on the diode that i would need to find for an attempted replacement? I would like to try it myself.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" i had no idea what type of light was supposed to come in this duke and since it still isnt all that bright i didnt really suspect anything out of spec. "

____ Original/stock was 30w.bulb or 35w.sealed-beam.
The 75w.light ought be quite very-bright but, with your stock thin-gauge wiring, it's no-doubt not able to reach it's full intensity.
__ I had meant to ask you before... you've claimed that the blue-wire was quite hot at one certain point only, with just merely the ignition-key turned-on (with points closed, and no lights turned-on),, so have you ever also checked that blue-wire while with the lights turned-on at the same time, as well ?
Cuz that blue-wire is too thin to handle all the current of the entire load-system when using a much stronger than stock headlight ! _ So that hot-spot point you mentioned is likely to burn-up (with a high-power light running).


" I used the old style meter this morning to retest the diodes.. Same results occured: 150k, .31m on one diode, unable to post a reading on the other diode. "

____ If that other diode is indeed bad, you should still be able to get a reading (with an old needle-pointer type meter !), so it should indicate either 'open' or 'short'.
That you're still getting something other than that which could be expected, is certainly disconcerting.


" Do you have any specs on the diode that i would need to find for an attempted replacement? "

____ No, sorry I don't but, those old diode/SCR units likely became obsolete by the late '70s,, so you'd probably have to enter their stated part-number into a modern related conversion data-base to see if there's any replacement-unit available.
I think their numbers should be visible, printed on the side you can see from the bottom of the box-casing. _ If not though, I doubt that you could find any other clue inside (with the box-casing's top-cover removed).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[MotoMike]

Bob
Not sure what you mean by the diodes not being plain diodes. Thought I read these were potted in the case with epoxy or the like. I must have heard or remembered wrong.
*
If they are pressed into the case, those diodes are probably harder to find, but I think still available. would need to see the set up, but it might be possible to use the stud mount diodes that are more common. in both cases the mount usually serves as one of the connections as well as a firm path for heat to follow which allows the case to serve as a heat sink.
*
If I were doing the repair, I'd seek diodes that can handle 10 plus amps, (if RR is fused at 10 amps?), I'd make look for diodes that fit physically and that it could be mounted firmly. Shops or online stores that repair or provide parts for golf cart chargers and AC/DC power supplies would be sources for high power rectifier diodes. As you said they don't need to be exact, just close. I would think most diodes made to be used as rectifiers would be close enough if you can make them fit.
*
A less desirable (jury rig) option would be to mount the diodes remotely in which case lots of diode or rectifier options become available.
Mike

[john jupiter]

here are a few pics for curiosity and discussion: i did find a link on an obscure webpage regarding the replacement of the diodes.. the writer stated 10amp, 50piv(peak inverse voltage) is what was needed as replacements but he had a different unit with a fuse and a grey wire, both of which differ from mine.

[john jupiter]

one more..... a replacement unit or a rebuild of my original unit,which i am leaning towards will both run about 100 bucks. i'm also on the hunt for a diode that works and fits well and if i find one i'll give it a shot.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

By: MotoMike...
" Bob Not sure what you mean by the diodes not being plain diodes. Thought I read these were potted in the case with epoxy or the like. I must have heard or remembered wrong. "

____ I'm not sure where you may have heard exactly what, Mike.
I've assumed that you've become fairly-well aware of most of the differences between w-c & n-c electrical-systems, so other sources you've read may have allowed for confusion between them.
(Hoping you're not in the mood to argue with me about what a 'diode' is. lol)
As can be seen in a couple of the pix that have now been posted by johnjupiter, it's fairly obvious that the two main (pressed-in) rectifier power-units are not simple 'diodes', and considering their age, are likely power-SCR units.


" (if RR is fused at 10 amps?), "

____ The w-c R/R.unit's circuits don't employ any fuse.


" A less desirable (jury rig) option would be to mount the diodes remotely in which case lots of diode or rectifier options become available. "

____ I've taken burned-out stock R/R.units and scrapped-out the internal block of encased electronics, and replaced the emptied-space with simple FW.rect-blocks, so as to keep the employed rectifier-system remaining to look as stock.


Fun-Cheers,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

By: john jupiter...
" here are a few pics for curiosity and discussion: "

____ Thanks for all the pix of the R/R.unit in question !


" i did find a link on an obscure webpage regarding the replacement of the diodes.. the writer stated 10amp, 50piv(peak inverse voltage) is what was needed as replacements but he had a different unit with a fuse and a grey wire, both of which differ from mine. "

____ Must've been concerning the black-box of the narrow-case charging-systems ! - Those older rectifiers do employ plain power-diodes !


" a replacement unit or a rebuild of my original unit,which i am leaning towards will both run about 100 bucks. "

____ In my opinion, that's a sure waste of money ! _ As ya can come-up with a number of replacement-options for as low as 5-bucks.


" i'm also on the hunt for a diode that works and fits well and if i find one i'll give it a shot. "

____ Well then at this point, it's become time for us to stop calling it just a "diode", as you'll have better luck finding a replacement-unit if you stop referring to it by that distinct name.
__ You could employ a different rectifier in the mean-time, until you're able to dig-up a replacement-unit.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[john jupiter]

DCT Bob :
____ In my opinion, that's a sure waste of money ! _ As ya can come-up with a number of replacement-options for as low as 5-bucks.

Woah! Im all ears? How and what would i need to buy to pull this off?

What should i be refering to "it" as if its more than a mere diode??