1966 Scramber kick-stand

[bw_nh]

Good evening-

I have been working on the scrambler, trying unsuccessfully to get adequate spark at the spark plug.

However, another problem has appeared. While kicking it over... the kickstand "flipped" off it's stop. I caught the bike before it went down.

The pivot pin appears to be slightly bent, the result of which, the kickstand is angled slightly further "outwards". I may try to bend it back, but I think I see a crack in the pin, at the junction with the rest of the kickstand. I would prefer to remove the pin, and examine it better. Perhaps straighten it while it is out of the rest of the kickstand.

Does the pin press into the kickstand? Does it screw in?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UmES ... G_5079.JPG

Sincerely,

Bob W
Hillsboro, New Hampshire USA

[bw_nh]

Good afternoon all-

In that previous post, I mentioned the starting problem... and the confounding problem of the bent kickstand... when trying to start the bike, the bent kickstand would slip out, and the bike would fall over.

I was wondering about the assembly of that kickstand, wondering how it was put together- pivot pin pressed, screwed, or welded in.

Reporting back- I took the kickstand to a local welder friend- we looked it over, he determined the pivot pin is pressed into the arm, and then welded at the outer end. He ground off j-u-s-t enough paint and metal, to j-u-s-t see the junction of the pin and bracket... and then used a 90-ton press to very slowly move the pin out. It turns out the pin is shouldered- the main pivot portion of the pin is .47-something inches diameter, probably 12mm, but the actual part that is pressed in, is smaller. I didn't think to measure it, while it was out... probably 10mm? As mentioned earlier, the pin was bent, and what I THOUGHT was a break starting, was actually the opening of the shouldered portion of the pivot pin, exposing because of the bend of that pin.

We then used the press to straighten the pin... and then hammered the straightened pin back in... and welded the outer end. a little paint, and... good as new. Well, sorta. As good as 50 years old.

Now, I can try starting the bike again, with the soldered wires with shrink-sleeves to the alternator re-attached.

And thank you, JIm, for getting this forum back to running condition!

Sincerely,

Bob Woolner
Hillsboro, New Hampshire

[amartina75]

Sounds like you sorted out the kickstand. That's good but it's not a good idea to kickstart the bike while it's on the side stand. I'm guessing you don't have a center stand as the scramblers didn't come with one and they sell for too much money these days. When I'm starting any of my bikes and not using the center stand I hold the bike upright, stand on the left side, use my right foot on the kick start lever. It takes a little getting used to but works best. Also make sure you are getting the piston to just past TDC on compression before kicking. It will start easier and won't kickback on you.
Aaron

[bw_nh]

Good afternoon-

I can't believe... it has been 6 years since I last worked on this Scrambler...

I pulled it out of the barn two weeks ago, trailered it to our camp, and have been trying to work on it again. Yes, the kickstand is repaired, and is working fine. I did install a center-stand that I had purchased on Ebay a few years back, which greatly facilitates the "kicking it over" issue.

However, it still doesn't start... Grrr...

I thought I had found the problem. The ground at the brake-light switch was not good- I took the switch off, cleaned the paint and slight corrosion from the mounting bracket, and the wire now grounds properly. But the bike still didn't start.

6v AC, no battery...

To remind you all... I have two different ignition coils that could be used. The coil that was originally on the bike has a green label, with some numbers... 11.06 printed on it. As far as I know, that is the original correct coil. I also have a "motoplat" coil that also has "barcelona" on the top. Same dimensions, but different resistances...

original green label coil... 4 ohms resistance across #1 and #15 . 10k ohms across #1 and center spark.


motoplat coil... 2 ohms resistance across #1 and #15. 6.4k ohms across #1 and center spark.

Which to use? But neither actually seems to produce a good spark...

I may try bringing up a 6volt battery from the Mach I and try getting it running by temporarily re-wiring the coil and points... and maybe start saving up for an electronic ignition conversion kit... Gah.

Sincerely,

Bob W
Hillsboro, New Hampshire

[ducwiz]

Afaik, both of your coils are inadequate, resistance is too high. I remember a value for this particular AC coil of ~1 ohm, and a green label. But I'm not an expert for the n/c singles. There are also coils with a red label, and I still can't distinguish reliably between them .
AC type coils are offered:

http://www.guzzino.com/igco6va.html
http://roadandrace.com.au/electrics.htm

Imho, you can also use a Lucas coil used for their "energy transfer ignition system", which is basically identical with that of the the DUCATI AC system:

https://www.feked.com/replacement-lucas-energy-transfer-et-ignition-coil.html

cheers Hans