Top End Oil Flow

[Mark3Cam]

Hey guys, ran an oil flow test today on my 72ish 350. I hooked up a socket to my mixing drill and ran the engine with rocker covers and bevel covers off after priming the system with an oil can. The drill was running around 650-750 rpm and within about a minute I had to put the rocker covers back on. The oil flow from the end of the bevel drive was much heavier but even with a steady stream from the cam area I didn’t get the mess that was described from oil squirting from the top holes on the rockers. Is this strictly due to the low rpm or simply a matter of the oil system needing some run time with hot oil to really open up? The engine has been sitting for quite some time but the old oil was still fluid but black. I could see the last of it purge from the system as the fresh oil came through.
What are your thought? I feel based on what I saw it’s a great sign and more than adequate oil flow but as mentioned not the mess some describe from simply putting the bike in gear and pushing it around with rocker covers off.

[Duccout]

It sounds fine to me.

Colin

[veloduke]

Hi
I wouldn't expect to see any oil coming out of those top rocker holes. They are there to let oil in to lubricate the bearing between the rocker and its pin.
Does your cam have a roll pin in it at the bevel gear end? This is to force more oil through the holes in the cam where it bears on the rocker pads.
If you are going to fit a tacho, then the drive gubbins will have a similar effect.
Well, that's my understanding anyway. Feel free to correct me

[blethermaskite]

Definitely check there is some sort of restricting slug in the bevel gear end of the camshaft.
Cheers,
George

[Mark3Cam]

Awesome thanks for the input guys. Iam currently running a 20w40 for my start up oil with some cleaning additive added and will switch to a straight grade 50sae after a few run cycles, so the thicker grade should also encourage oil flow too

[themoudie]

Aye Mark,

Iam currently running a 20w40 for my start up oil with some cleaning additive added and will switch to a straight grade 50sae after a few run cycles, so the thicker grade should also encourage oil flow too

Every one to their own. I used to use SAE40W all the time for running in and running, with changes every 1,000 miles. But after the last rebuild I changed the 20W/50 oil, with no additives 3 times, 50, 100 and 500 miles, then at 1,500 miles drained again and refilled, with a 15W-50 fully synthetic oil. Now over 4,500 miles, with a change at 3,000 and 4,500 miles, with little apparent wear, no clutch slip when hot, no 'sticky' clutch when cold and a smooth running engine.

Smith and Allan is the UK brand and at £80-00 for 20 litres, delivered to my door, a very reasonable price too. Recommended to me by a Vincent owner/user, engineer, who rebuilds them as well for racing in National UK racing and on the road.

All the best, Bill

[ranton_rambler]

I use Silkolene 20W-50, which was Nigel’s recommendation. That’s good enough for me!

[Duccout]

I spent 30 years running my Ducati vee twins on SAE50 in Summer and 20/50 in Winter, but then I just got fed-up with it and took Nigel's recommendation for Silkolene Comp 4 20/50 and have used it ever since. Funnily enough, my engines run quieter on it than on SAE50.

Colin

[blethermaskite]

Silkoline comp 4 20/50 for me, on both my widecase singles now for about 8 years no problems at all.
Cheers,
George

[Mark3Cam]

I’m running Lucas Oil 50SAE which is definitely a more expensive option and has a great reputation so will see how the bike likes it. Nice to know new multi grades and synthetics are a great option as well