It only took seventeen years.

[Bob_Matthews]

Absolutely stunning Brian, you should be very proud
What colour did you paint the frame, Nissan A17 or something else?

[ducwiz]

Hi,

really nice work indeed, I'd like to affirm - but for the studs, sorry.

... and there is no torsional load on the insert when tightening the head down.

In my opinion, this is not true: when you tighten the nut there a friction force builds up immediately, between the nut and the stud. This must result in a rotation of the latter. The only difference I see: a bolt rotates in the Heli-Coil wile tightened, while a stud does not because it's already locked
in it.

Remeber Isaac Newton: "actio = reactio"

For two further reasons, I would have stayed with the bolts.
- Imho, Dr. T applied them to enable a quick detachment of the cylinder head, with the engine still mounted in the frame.
- stainless compared to mild steel has a higher thermal elongation coefficient (factor 2 at least), so the studs are more likely to loosen during engine heat-up.

Btw, I never had problems with the 4 Heli-Coils I installed in my 350MIIID engine, for more tan 30000km.

cheers Hans

[ranton_rambler]

I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering but it’s so long ago I can’t summon up an explanation, but I can’t help agreeing with Brian that studs are a better joint.
But I do like being able to get the head off easily. I suppose you could argue that it shouldn’t be needed often but just I’ve managed to get from a fully running bike to having the head fully stripped in about 2-1/2 hrs.
Ian

[DBDBrian]

Hi Bob, I have a mate who owns a paint finishing company, and his son did the paintwork. The paint was selected from a swatch of many gold variants, and was mixed to the paint manufactures code number, so I have no reference as to the actual colour.

Hi Hans, Thanks for your input, and it's reassuring that you have not had a problem with the helicoils in your engine.
I stand by my reason for fitting studs, re taking the torsional load off the inserts when pulling down the head. the studs are already fully into the insert, which has a 1.5 mm pitch thread.
The bronze nuts have a 1 mm pitch thread, and I can assure you the studs remained stationary.

Re head removal with the engine in situ, it's not rarely a big issue to remove the studs, which already have the load taken off the inserts.

As to the use of stainless for the studs, I have rebuilt many BSA Goldstar engines over the years using stainless studs, which have four of 3/8" diameter retaining the barrel to the crankcase,
with no problems whatsoever to date. With the Ducati using four 10mm studs, and only 200cc, I do not think it will give trouble, but obviously that remains to be seen.

As an aside over the years, I have seen more than one helicoil come out with the bolt.

[Jordan]

I’ve managed to get from a fully running bike to having the head fully stripped in about 2-1/2 hrs.
Ian

The Ducati single design is optimal for quick top end work.
I once removed and reinstalled a cylinder head, taking only half an hour.

The scenario was that I'd arranged to go for a ride with a friend, and while waiting for him I removed the spark plug for a quick peek.
There was a small metallic-looking blob on an electrode, so not wanting to risk a melting piston I started dismantling to inspect. First the tank.
Then my friend turned up. He's a Honda trained motorbike mechanic, and thought that meant the planned ride was off because I'd be at it for hours.
Not necessarily!
I confirmed nothing bad inside, reassembled everything and started the engine.

Some things helped:
It was at my garage.
I had the top end apart recently and everything was clean and easy to dismantle again, fresh in my mind.
No air cleaner to complicate, and didn't need to detach the carb from the head.
The exhaust pipe and muffler came off in one piece.
Wing nuts supported the front of the petrol tank.
Vertical shaft OHC!
Nevertheless, my Honda-friend was astonished.

[DBDBrian]

Wiring completed, and today was the day, the tense moment passed without incident, it fired up on the fourth kick, and all was well.
The charging light went out, and no untoward noises apart from the normal Ducati OHC sound. A bit of smoke which soon cleaned up, not unexpected as I had been quite liberal with the oil can on assembly.
Very pleased with the Dellorto SSI carb, as it responded well to the throttle, and after a little tweak settled down to a nice steady idle.
Will recheck the tappets in the morning, and fit the tank and saddle. Maybe nip up my lane for a quick ride.

The next move will be to get an MOT, as I bought it with no documentation or registration, and will need hopefully to obtain an age related number.
I have a letter of verification, which Mick Walker wrote for me when I purchased it, but obviously he is no longer on the DVLA register.
Has anyone been down this route recently, any help in this direction would be much appreciated.

[George]

Well done Brian, always good to hear the engine start. I believe that a dating letter expires after 12 months. You may have to get new certificate. I have registered quite a few bikes, best not to do it online. I can scan copy of procedure if it would help

[Jordan]

it fired up on the fourth kick, and all was well.
The charging light went out

Is that a non-standard charging light, or did Ducati have one on some models?

[ranton_rambler]

Good news Brian.

My 175 has a charge light.

Regarding registration, you don’t need an MOT if it’s more than 40 years old. Having said that, I got mine done just to get another pair of eyes to check it over.
When I registered mine a couple of years ago, I needed a dating letter and NOVA form. They also wanted original documents verifying that it had been imported from Italy. I didn’t have those but I did have some correspondence between the seller and the guy I bought it from which they accepted.
I think dating evidence has to be fairly new, maybe less than 2 years old. There is a list on DVLA website of valid clubs etc who can issue them. I’ll try and remember to find a link later.

[Jordan]

My 175 has a charge light.

Thanks, I didn't know that some singles had it.