Slippig clutch and valve liffter on a 350 scrambler.

[Jordan]

Good work, Jack.
It appears it could be possible to provide the anchor point for the cable nipple on an extension of the valve lifter body.
It might all look too busy though.
What ARE those extra holes for?

[Jacks the Lad]

"What are those extra holes for?" To be honest I don't know, they are shown as being there in the parts book illustration and all of the pictures of the genuine factory lifter I can find. All I can think of it's so that you could, if you wanted to, is reverse the operating arm.

[themoudie]

Aye John, pleased to see that the images and sketch helped you make what you wanted. The final result looks good to me.

Agree that on some machines the cable end was secured to a bracket beneath the front left cylinder head bolt head. However, on my 450 MKIII a hole had been drilled through the outer rocker cover fin and the cable, with a tulip nipple soldered on the end, is passed through and secured with a screwed barrel nipple, sitting between the fins.

As for the Gruyer cheese holes, my conclusion was the same as yours, the pivot can either be to the front or rear, individual choice.

More importantly, do you find the starting easier and have you been for a canter yet?

I have some carburation fettling to attend to and a Boyer Inductive Discharge unit to fit. Initial shake down runs have been good and Nigel Lacey's Piper 173A cam does make a difference through the mid rev range. Just need to bed everything in, sort the niggles and should be good for putting some miles on it.

My regards, Bill

[Jacks the Lad]

No, sadly it wouldn't start at all! The spark had gone AWOL, the fault was eventually traced to a crimp terminal on the coil, only it wasn't, crimped that is, or at least not properly. Needed to take the tank off to find it. Glad in a way it happened now and not alongside the road someplace. But once fixed, yes, starting was a whole lot easier.
However if one crimp can fall out how long before it happens again? I think a complete rewire is required, look at the photo and you will understand why.

[blethermaskite]

Hi Jack,
I think we all have had a headlight bowl that looked like that at some time or other, colour coding seems to have been deemed unneeded on this job , never mind those terrible connector blocks (I hate those) If it were me I would definitely rewire, even just for the peace mind that comes from actually knowing the jobs good and the bike won't die somewhere from a dodgy wiring system.
Cheers,
George

[themoudie]

Aye John, a veritable 'rats nest'!

I agree that a complete re-wire, with modern 'thin wall' cable and properly soldered and crimped connectors, with insulation and or heat shrink insulation to protect the connections and twist wrap sleeving to keep it all tidy is the solution.

Personally, I use Vehicle Wiring Products for my wiring supplies, other suppliers are in the market.

On the 450 MKIII I rewired and included relays in the circuit for the horn and main beam/dip wiring, so as to keep the higher current loads away from the switches. Also put the fuses and relays in the left-hand toolbox, rather than cramming it all into the headlight shell, where it gets soaked or covered in condensation.

I can send you a wiring diagram of my circuits if you wish.

My regards, Bill

[Jacks the Lad]

Nothing of the machine's original wiring, switches or lights had survived everything had been replaced. Of the wiring that was there, it's all gone now, having been rewired without those horrible "chocolate-block" connectors. Kept it nice and simple, switch by the front of the saddle, 1, lights 2, off 3, lights and ignition. For the lights a DPDT centre off switch, one way pilot and rear light. other way head light and rear. There was an electronic regulator already fitted which I kept, but did move it out of the tool box to somewhere where it would get some air flow over it. Also there was an electronic ignition box which I also kept, however it has a number different advance curves selected by a switch, no idea which one to use. I will ask about that in a separate post. It does tend to kick back when starting so probably not using the right one

[themoudie]

Aye John,

Wouldn't be a Sachs ignition box by chance?

I believe that some of these have been fitted to the varying capacity singles and 'tuners' have thought that by advancing the full advance spark timing, 'performance' would be enhanced.

To my knowledge at least two 450 motors have not appreciated this 'tuning' (Personal comment from Nigel Lacey) of the spark advance available when using some adjustable electronic ignition boxes.

This link to an earlier post on the forum may help: Motoscrubs_forum_electronic_ignition_thread

My regards, Bill

[Jacks the Lad]

Yes Bill, it's a Sachse, ZDG 3.12 in fact. There are 9 different curves available, bearing in mind Mr Lacy's comments I don't what to choose the wrong one.