Slippig clutch and valve liffter on a 350 scrambler.

[Ventodue]

... back the bike up in gear until compression (in reverse) then your piston is in the same position as it would be if you used a valve lifter. A good swing on the kickstart <snip> ...

Just remember to knock it out of gear first ... DAMHIK.

[Jacks the Lad]

Rolling the bike back in gear, yes that would do the trick, just one problem, I haven't quite mastered the trick of kick starting with my left leg (to many years of riding British bikes with starter on the right). May have to learn how to do it, but in the mean time, my efforts find a valve lifter have come back negative so far, I thought I would try and fabricate one, The photo showed my attempts so far.



Not finished yet, I will report back on how I get on.

[Jordan]

I haven't quite mastered the trick of kick starting with my left leg (to many years of riding British bikes with starter on the right).

I always use my right foot, standing beside the bike.

[themoudie]

I too use the right leg, standing beside the bike. Not being Kerr handed the left leg doesn't have the co-ordination and I'm not sure that it would survive a kick back!

Regards, Bill

[Jacks the Lad]

A bit more work on the home fabricated valve lifter showing the now much shorten pin and the home made tab washer cut from sheet steel.

Need the to braze something on the end of the actuating arm to act as a termination for the bowden cable but have run out of gas (O2) work on hold for the moment.

[themoudie]

Aye John,

Pictures and dimensions as promised. Apologies for the delay, I was at Stafford Show, where there were few Ducati singles and few selling Ducati bits.

I will have to use 2 posts to get the images across to you. I can PM to you or email if required.

Regards, Bill

[themoudie]

Aye John,

Further images of Ducati MKIII valve lifter components to add to my previous post.

Regards, Bill

[Jacks the Lad]

Thank you Bill,
Most helpful.

[Jacks the Lad]

The homemade valve-lifter in place, Not the most elegant of devices perhaps, but it works.



A slightly stronger spring under the operating pin and some tiding up no doubt needed, but getting there.
Big thank you to "themoudie" for help and advice.

[jbcollier]

"fuel efficient" engine oils have additives that will make wet clutches slip. Usually these oils are 0w-x or 5w-x. "Fuel efficient" will be written on the container. Fortunately you can just drain the "FE" oil and fill with the proper stuff and you'll be ok.

I run a very high compression 250NC with 450 springs, lined housing and a WC release lever. Clutch pull is light with no slip.