New 350 owner/help ID a 66

[Stickbow]

Tossing up some pictures...

[Nick]

Looks good! Got a lot of happy miles on my Sebring (she's temporarily in storage now).

If both petcocks are not flowing well in both the Reserve and On positions, you can disassemble them and clean out the passages. Mine were partially blocked with silt.

[Stickbow]

So my kickstart wont engage, I pulled the side cover off and it looks like the two little spring things that are supposed to engage it into the ratchet mechanism arent loading it at all. Any ideas why that might be? Is the ratchet stripped? It will engage if I hand preload it so it seems like I just need to reset the spring force.



Clutch looks like it has some life I think...

[Eldert]

i think there should be a gear under those forked leaf springs .

Eldert

[Stickbow]

Hard to see in the picture but there is one gear "behind" the spring (background of the pic) that engages to the kick lever and has the ratchet mechanism on the back. Actually just found this pic that probably describes my issue (though I dont see the spring Im talking about in the exploded view)... Any suggested fixes? Bend the spring back into position?



Edit, found this
http://www.motoscrubs.com/Narrowcase_Ki ... Repair.htm

[double diamond]

Sounds like the lyre springs are bent if they’re not pressing the gear into the ratchet teeth. Perhaps the springs have cracked at the mounting? Remove the clutch and you can inspect the mechanism. If the springs aren’t cracked, bend the mounting tab flat with the spring arms and see if it engages. You can also see the condition of the ratchet teeth. Verify that the teeth on the kickstart shaft gear and ratchet gear are properly engaged. It’s a simple mechanism, easy enough to put right.

Matt

[JimF]

My 250 had an issue wherein the kick start was not engaging with the rachet.

The short term kick-start solution for me was to tip the bike towards me as I stood on the bike's right hand side after which I would tip it back onto the center stand.

This would give positive engagement for the subsequent kick over.

I then tried putting two of the "fork" springs on, overlapping, as if they were laminated to each other. As I recall that was ineffective.

In the end I got rid of the fork spring and located the parts to implement a round spring placed under that double-ended circular "bridge" you see in the right-most diagram.

That was the good fix. Problem gone. I made a web page about how to install the bridge. I'll look for it and post the link.

Jim

[ranton_rambler]

You can buy the coil spring conversion on eBay. I got one for my 175, for when I get round to the bottom end. Needs an extra hole drilling/tapping into the case.

[JimF]

http://www.motoscrubs.com/Narrowcase_Ki ... Repair.htm

How to perform the kick start repair, with a poor attempt at humor!

[Stickbow]

Thanks for the help guys, I ended up pulling it apart and getting a look in there. The springs(there was two layered together) were bent in such a way that they werent engaging the gear at all. I bent them until they looked right, and reinstalled and seem to get good engagement now. Haven't tried a full strength kick yet as I mixed up the housing bolts so I need to sort out which are long and which are short.

Two other things I found,
Someone broke this off previously (Stole pic from the instructions but mine looks pretty similar), should I attempt a fix or just hope it doesnt get worse?


Secondly the gasket to the engine cover and the cases isnt that great of condition. Should I just clean it up a little and reinstall? Or use a liquid gasket? As I dont know what work I will need to do on this bike to get it running it seems likely Ill have to pull this sucker off again so I dont want to worry too much about it.