175TS in UK

[Ventodue]

Thanks for the update. So, unless the forks were changed at some point, that means that neither the VMCC nor Ducati UK were right (ref. your earlier postings). Disappointing, but I can't say there's any great surprise there ...



So, the forks were made some time in 1961. But when? I'm wondering about the '8'. According to Tom Bailey, at this period that should be week 8, i.e. end Februrary. But I'm a little surprised there isn't a '0' in front of the '8'. Or is it month 8? But Tom says the use of a month designator only started in 1965.

Dunno. But in any event your 07*** frame number stills points to 1962.

* P.s Ignore the 4 in an elongated D.

[ranton_rambler]

Dropped the de-rusted tank off during the week to be painted. I'm going for blue/silver and the painter reckons he can match the Lechler colour codes I've found. As I've never seen a real one in blue I won't know how well he succeeds.
Started on the engine stripdown now. Nothing too nasty yet, although I haven't split the main cases yet. The kickstart quadrant has damaged teeth, but I already knew about that. The oil pump still has lead seals stamped "Ducati" so I'm guessing it's never been opened up before.
A couple of questions which are not clear in either the workshop manual or my Mick Walker book.
1. Which way does the clutch arm pivot pin go out? I've got the little roll pin out, but don't want to apply too much force to the pivot pin. It doesn't seem to want to go forwards (to the right in my picture) so perhaps need to find a way to push it backwards (to the left)?
2. How does the bottom bevel gear separate from the shaft? I've got the little bevel gear off the crankshaft already using a small puller, but can't see how the bottom big one comes off. It's too big to fit through the hole in the right-hand case. Maybe will be clearer if I have a look in daylight tomorrow.

Ian

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[ranton_rambler]

Sorted both issues out. Clutch pin comes out to the rear, just needed to work out how to push it. Allen key seemed to work well. I've realised that the bottom bevel can't come out till the crankshaft is out, but I found the circlip that holds it together.
Split the cases this afternoon and there's a curious mixture of things which are in really good nick, and some damaged bits, and evidence of previous bodging.

[ranton_rambler]

Didn't get much time during the week but managed a few hours today to carry on with engine stripping.
Removed all the shafts from the crankcase halves, and will take them into work next week to have a dunk in the parts washer. Might get them aqua-blasted after that. Hope I have enough photos to allow me to put it all together again.
Moved onto cylinder head next. First problem was getting the end cap off the camshaft. The rod down the middle didn't shift it - just bent the end of the rod over against the cap, so I couldn't get it back out! Mick Walker's book warns against prying it off but by use of a slender blade to shift it, then progressing through an old wood chisel and screwdriver it came off. The flange was already a bit bruised so I'm not the first. Hopefully it will still seal.
Currently stuck with 2 things.
I need a bit of M5 threaded bar to pull the rocker pins out, and some 90 degree circlip pliers to finish getting the top bevel shaft apart.

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[Samurai]

I had exactly the same difficulty getting the camshaft and cap off.

After advice from another mechanic and the guys in here, I soaked the head in diesel for a few weeks whilst I was working in other stuff, going back every now and then to use a hide mallet to gradually twist the cap side to side.

It still wouldn't pull off and I was reluctant to get it off as you've done, for fear of damaging the mating surfaces and creating an oil leak.

In the end the solution was simple (isn't it always!), use an impact wrench to remove the cam nut (it spins it off so fast that the shaft doesn't rotate against the valve spring pressure), ensure that the cam lobes clear the rockers, give the camshaft a couple of smart belts with a hide mallet and off it comes!

[Jordan]

That's a method I didn't know about.
Sounds good, will give it a try, thanks.

[ranton_rambler]

Got my tank back from repair and painting today. Hard to believe it is the same one. Colour is apparently matched to Lechler A22. I don't care if it isn't - it looked great in the bright winter sunshine this afternoon. Not a concours job, but I didn't pay a concours price. And I want a bike I won't be scared to ride down dirty lanes.

Need to keep it somewhere safe now while I finish the rest of the bike.

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[Samurai]

Bet you're pleased!

It's good to be given a moral boost by getting old bits finally painted, polished or replaced. It makes all the hard work that you don't see feel worthwhile

[Ventodue]

Looks good, Ian! As you say, 'Store it somewhere safe' ...

[ranton_rambler]

I'm still hunting the world for a con-rod kit. The commonly available ones seem to be the MECEUR ones (with the eagle logo) but I've been warned off these as being generally inferior quality. Still got a couple of possibilities I'm following up (Tony Brancato, Alpha Bearings) but any other suggestions welcome.

In the meantime I've been cleaning up other bits and pieces, and yesterday started putting the cylinder head back together. 5 iterations of shims so far, and I reckon the next one will be right. Just got too cold out in the garage to carry on, but should find some time today. A few questions:
Is there a recommended torque for the nut on the end of the camshaft? Nothing in the workshop manual.
What's the view on using sealant on the gaskets, especially the cam end cover and the bevel tube? I remember reading somewhere that these single engines should not need any sealant.
Mick Walker book says to Loctite the top bearing collar into the head, but does not say which Loctite to use.

Ian