At wits end with ignition - need help!

[STEVENM63]

More successful garage time. I was able to get the bike to idle after doing another extensive carb cleaning. Having sat for bit of time since working on it perhaps it had some clogging in the idle circuit. This is the second time that I have had to do this. Even though the time that it sat was relatively short, it seems to be a bit more sensitive than the Keihin carbs that I am used to working on. I might consider draining the bowl if I don't intend to start/ride for more than a week or so. Also adjusted the mixture screw from 1.5 turns to just a little over 1 turn. Seems to easily find smooth idle now. I let the engine fully cool and was able to duplicate startup and idling. So that is one more item to check off.

Just to answer some of the questions above.
We determined that I am using the correct ignition coil wire (1 ohm).
My engine case does have the 6mm hole above the chain drive intake (Scrambler).

Thanks to those that responded with information and suggestions.

Steven

[Nick]

Congratulations on getting your bike sorted.

Re the carb issue, I make it a habit to turn the fuel off when still about a half-mile from home. This burns off most of the fuel in the bowl, lessening the chance of pilot circuit plugging.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= STEVENM63 ...
" I might consider draining the bowl if I don't intend to start/ride for more than a week or so. "

____ As Nick has indicated, it's always preferable to rather turn-off the fuel-petcocks at-least a minute before the engine is to be shut-down (and left un-restarted for over an hour), so as to not leave much fuel in the float-bowl (that could lead to waste & undesired results).



" We determined that I am using the correct ignition coil wire (1 ohm). "

____ Well that's news to me, as you've always before stated that your employed ign.coil has had a primary-coil resistance-level of "4" ohms !
So did you get another ign.coil, or what ?



" My engine case does have the 6mm hole above the chain drive intake (Scrambler). "

____ Then that much increases the likelihood that both your mag.rotor & stator are still original-stock to your motor-model. _ And-so the workshop-recommended timing-mark rotor-setting ought much more-so be likely correct (concerning your particular mag.rotor's stamped timing-mark location). ...
__ However if your motor had turned-out to rather be a Monza-model,, then we'd know that your alternator-model was-not stock, and-so then certainly couldn't be positively sure of whether your mag.rotor-model was originally matched together with your '28-watt' stator-model. _ And-thus without knowing for-sure which mag.rotor-model yours happens to actually be, it's timing-mark location thus-then would've became far more untrustworthy ! - (As not-only do similar appearing mag.rotors have their timing-marks factory-stamped in significantly differing alignment location degrees [in relation to the magnet-array arrangement-location],, but besides that confusing concern, there's also the relatively slim chance that the factory-placed timing-mark had possibly not been stamped right-at the exact factory-intended location-spot, to-boot/as-well !)
__ But anyhow,, since your ignition no-longer seems to suffer much, that thusly tends to confirm that your '28w' alternator is most-likely original to your '66-Scr.motor.


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[STEVENM63]

So, I'm back at it. Well, actually, I have enlisted the mechanics at MotoPow here in Ferndale, MI since I had taken this project as far as my abilities would take me. My mechanic, Todd, has researched this thread as well as other posts and the expertise here has been quite helpful.

However, he has informed me that I have a weak magnet in the magneto and I will also need a new coil to get the bike to run properly. Both will need to be replaced. In doing some initial research, it appears that I might have a couple of options. Before making the investment I wanted to get recommendations from the experienced members here on what might be the most cost effective and practical solution. The goal is to have reliable running as well as power to support lighting.

Road and Race
- 12 volt conversion
- 6 volt magneto upgrade

Powerdyanmo
- complete kit for conversion of existing ignition

Lacey Ducati
- 12 volt 120 watt alternator conversion for narrow case bikes (although I question how this would work if my bike is a magneto bike)

What type of coil would I need (and where to source) for these options.

If there are any other suggestions, please reply with your recommendations. My mechanic, Todd will be monitoring this thread as well.

Thanks,
Steven

[ducwiz]

Hi Steven,

the Powerdynamo kits are of excellent quality, but the Ducati version has an essential drawback. The ignition pick-up is not mounted in it's natural place beneath the RHS timing cover, where the points presently operate. Instead, it is placed on the stator base plate, inside the engine's primary drive compartment. In turn, if you want to adjust or modify your engine's ign. timing, you have to open the primary cover, dismount the clutch and pull the flywheel. For me, this would be a no-go! But, Powerdynamo also offers an alternator-only alternator type. In this case, you have to keep your points and convert the circuit into a battery powered ignition, using a std. DC coil. Without a fully chrged battery there will be no sparking available.
With the Lacey system, which seems to be manufactured by Electrex (STK-160?), you have to go likewise. But: The Electrex STK-161 http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-161.html#tab_aSTK_2d161_1 includes a CDI ignition system, where the pick-up will fit into the housing for the points. This is imho the best solution, as the CDI is self-powered from a special winding on the stator, so no battery is needed for ignition.
Buying a new Ducati alternator rotor and having the stator rewound means: you stay with 6Volts and very little power. Again, here you don't need the battery to generate sparks - but why stay with this old-fashioned stuff while not saving expenses?

cheers Hans

[jbcollier]

You say drawback, I say plus: set the timing once and forget about it. Any of the systems above will work just fine. My preference would be for a system that does away with the mechanical advance as it requires regular lubrication otherwise it wears, seizes, etc.

[Jordan]

In my experience, the advance-retard mechanism is one of the most reliable things on a Ducati.
I've owned five with points ignition and never had one give a problem.
Certainly it was better done than Lucas motorcycle A-R sold about the same time.

[Jordan]

In my experience, the advance-retard mechanism is one of the most reliable things on a Ducati.
I've owned five with points ignition and never had one give a problem.
Certainly it was better done than Lucas motorcycle A-R sold about the same time.

However, CDI does make for easier starting, compared to points.

[Nick]

I put the Electrec Works system on my Diana and it works perfectly! It is now an AC system with battery, starts first kick, bright lights, no worries. I made my own simplified wiring loom using toggle switches. The system was easy to install. I'm still using the points but I had to change the magneto points cam for the AC system advance unit (off a spare 350 motor I have). I kept the standard headlight assy but put a modern bulb in it.

Can't be happier to be rid of the crazy stock Ducati system. My Diana is now as electrically reliable as any modern bike.

I ordered the system online, it came a week or two later, I installed it and it works perfectly -- end of story.

(There's a thread with pics somewhere on here.)

[dsmess]

Nick,
Is this the SK161 model you are using?
Dave