1967 Monza fork removal

[NL_DM250_SH]

Hi all, I am trying to remove the front forks on my Monza and I have run into some trouble, I have the left side (clutch side) leg out of the triple tree with no problems but I cannot get the right leg (throttle side) out of the tree and I believe it may be seized unless there is a specific trick to this leg? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[bodge]

31.5 fork are both the same penetrating oil or heat, a large flate bladed screwdriver can sometimes be lightly tapped into the gap where the lower clamps up to open it slightly and give you a chance to twist it free

[NL_DM250_SH]

Hmm, no luck yet getting it off. I think I am going to have to pick up a small acetylene torch and try heating it up.

[JimF]

I worry that the torch is going to destroy the paint. And it's a lot of metal mass to heat up given that the fork legs and steering column will act as a conduit to draw heat away.

I am width Bodge's post, that with the clamp bolt removed you should be able to tap a wide wedge that comes to a sharp point into the slot of the triple tree. It shouldn't take much gap in the lower clamp to free up the tube.

A good firm back-and-forth rotation on the fork tube should free it up within the slightly opened clamp and then you can continue to twist it back and forth while you withdraw it to sort of walk the tube out of the clamp.

As I recall the most difficult part of this was when I used a screwdriver as my wedge it would want to pop out when I handled the fork and clamp assembly. I think I wedged the clamp open with a flat blade screwdriver and then stuck the ends of metal shims or the edges of washers into the clamp opening so that when the screwdriver popped out I would not loose the gap I had created.


Jim

[Eldert]

Monza dont have clipons . otherwise it would be easy put a clipon on the forktube and start rotating and moving down if you have some movement . maybe add a little penatrating oil .

Good luck

Eldert

[double diamond]

Sounds like the fork tube is stuck in the fork crown. Heating the crown is a good approach but no need to get it too hot. A propane torch is more than adequate. You might also try cooling the inside of the tube where it engages the crown. Heat the crown then spray the internal threaded portion of the fork tube (where the fork cap screws in) with an inverted can of computer keyboard compressed air. When you invert the can the discharge from the spray tube is liquid air, which is very cold and will contract the fork tube. Put the axle back in the fork slider and tap downward with a rubber mallet. Don’t hit the axle too hard; you could damage the fork internals, bend the axle, break the axle clamp, etc. You may have to resort to removing the fork crown but be prepared for all the steering head ball bearings to scatter in every direction; the upper bearing race and steering stem is only held in place by the crown and will come apart when the crown is removed. Which means the fork leg and lower clamp will fall out of the frame unless you take measures to keep it in place. Also, be You may also be dealing with rust on the fork tube in the lower clamp area. The Ducati fork tubes are unplated steel and can rust pretty badly. Matt