1965 ducati narrow case

[flanker]

And more photos.... Bob I hope these are enough? I have to choose where to drill holes in the headlight pre painting

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[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" I have to choose where to drill holes in the headlight "

____ You really ought-to have the light-switch & key-switch units located in place so that you can see how much room you'll have to spare around them.
Then choose hole locations that are appropriately spaced apart (pretty-much as you see fit).
__ I'd locate the ign.warning-lamp nearest the key-switch.
What are you thinking for the other lamp locations ?


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[flanker]

That sounds like a prudent way to go thx for the advice!

[flanker]

Bob, my thoughts for the other lights are: ign warning in front of key. Then one dead center and 2 on the left side (one of which will be par real to the ign warning and the dead center, the other placed behind it parallel to the middle of the light switch). Cheers rob


Light. Light. Light


Light

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ Sorry Rob, the level of forum-activity must've kept your last post from remaining near the top of the thread-topics page for long enough on Saturday to alert me that you had added a follow-up post to this thread.



[quote= flanker ...
" ign warning in front of key. "

____ I was thinking that it rather ought to be located between the key-switch & light-switch so that it doesn't block the viewing of the key-switch wire-connections (as only accessible from the front-opening).
But if you don't find that consideration as being any real concern, then in "front" (as you're considering) may be well-enough, but I think to the rear-side of the key-switch would likely provide a better view from the seating-position.



" Then one dead center and 2 on the left side (one of which will be par real to the ign warning and the dead center, the other placed behind it parallel to the middle of the light switch). "

____ I think I have a fair idea of how your layout plan is intended to be schemed-out,, but to be sure, it might turn-out useful to see a picture of your headlamp with pieces of tape (or something) placed to mark the exact spots you're thinking of.
__ On the later Monza-models with a charge-indicator light,, that indicator-lamp is located to the left-side of the light-switch, (in case you care to retain that same layout, [although it may not seem particularly logically placed with respect to all your other pilot-lamp locations]).
__ I've come-up with a location-scheme which I-myself would most prefer, (providing the chosen locations [shown indicated in the below picture] actually leave sufficient space to clear the light-switch circuit-board).
The location behind the parking-light indicator-hole would be intended for the high-beam warning-lamp. _ How do you like this particular scheme suggestion ?
__ If you care to do so,, you could use the 'Edit' feature (rather with red-circles) on your PC, to indicate an alternate scheme you may have in mind.


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[graeme]

It may be worth using plastacene or blue tack to dummy the sections of your switch and lights that protrude into the inside of the headlight shell to be sure the headlight clears them.
It would be a bummer to have the holes too far forward and foul the headlight reflector.
Graeme

[flanker]

Yep you guys are right looks like another trip to the painter. It making me feel like I don't need so many lights...

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" Yep you guys are right "

____ Right about what exactly ? - (Could it perhaps be concerning that your previously considered indicator-locations maybe weren't so very well planned-out ?)



" looks like another trip to the painter. "

____ What for ?
If you've already had the headlamp-shell finished,, it shouldn't make much difference, as it's still possible to drill holes without damaging the surrounding areas of surface-finish ! - (Just don't start-out drilling your holes with the final drill-bit size [of the need full-size hole], but rather start-out with a 1/16th drill-bit [set within a rather slight punch-ding] and work your way forthward with two or three successively-larger intermediate sizes so that your final drill-bit size is guided and unable to wonder-off [to mar-up your surface-finish].)



" It making me feel like I don't need so many lights... "

____ If there's insufficient space between the preexisting parking-light indicator-location and the light-switch circuit-board, then perhaps you may prefer to eliminate the high-beam 'idiot-light' (rather than place it in some-odd offset & unbalance-looking position).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[flanker]

I went back and got the light from the painter! Tomorrow I'm going to install the switches and then map out the proper hole fitting and drill them out and dry fit the lights. It's the right thing to do plus my brakes are taking so long I may as do it as correctly as my skill level can achieve!

Bob ur right that crimping tool is amazing. I sat down and crimped some old wires from my pantah, I'm doing the wire harness next and am really psyched! Rob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" Tomorrow I'm going to install the switches and then map out the proper hole fitting and drill them out and dry fit the lights. "

____ Before actually drilling any holes,, keep in mind that the surface-area is not flat, and-so while your chosen spacing at the surface may be set-apart quite adequately, the curvature could possibly lead to some interference-fitment (with next-door obstacles) at the opposite-ends of your more lengthy pilot-lamp bodies, (as the amount of planned clearance inevitably shrinks downward inside the resulting reduced inward-radius).
__ Also you might care to show the rest of us your layout-plan for the pilot-lamp hole-locations before doing any hole-drilling, so as to possibly receive any advice that you may possibly prefer to take into consideration for more thoughtful pilot-lamp locations.



" Bob ur right that crimping tool is amazing. "

____ Indeed so.
Anyone who'd rather use that other common/cheap terminal-crimper (you also have), has got to be ignorant of doing good quality workmanship.



" I'm doing the wire harness next and am really psyched! "

____ Even-though it seems you're already psyched/enthused well enough,, to get you even more-so zealously gratified about your wiring-project, I suggest you get it started by first constructing your wire-lead which will connect the battery's neg.terminal-post to ground (with main-fuse holder inserted [within the length of 14-gauge green-wire]). _ Then next, make your red 16-gauge wire-lead that's intended to run the length between the battery's pos.terminal-post and the key-switch.
__ If you feel anything like I have with wiring-projects,, the initiation & completion of these satisfying initial accomplishments, really ought-to further inspire the excitement that it's actually 'fun' (and not dreaded 'work'), and possibly even leaving you wanting for more wiring to do after you've finally completed the rest of it all !


Fun-Cheers,
DCT-Bob