[quote= gmlaverda ...
" I did locate what appears to be the original coil as it has a "Ducati" decal on it. "
____ Good ! _ Should be the Red-label model-version then.
__ Even-though your project is planned to-be rather with a 12v.system, the stock 6v.rated ign.coil will still work ! _ However to keep it from unnecessarily drawing excessive power and become too overly heated-up,, it should have an ign.ballast-resistor connected-up in series with it.
The resistance-level of the chosen ballast-resistor should be no greater than that of the ign.coil (once the resistor has reached it's normal operating-temp), and probably no less than 50% (of the coil's resistance). _ (So-then if the ign.coil's resistance is 1.5-ohms, then the chosen ballast-resistor's operating-resistance ought-to be .75 ~ 1.5-ohms, [and nearer to 0-ohms when not-yet warmed-up].)
__ The expected advantage of preferring a relatively low-resistance ign.coil combined with a ballast-resistor, is that cold-starting then reaps the advantage of a hotter ign.spark, (until the resistor soon-after heats-up & increases in resistance, thus-then limiting the current drawn by the ign.coil down-to a more normal operating level).
This advantageous trick can't help but improve cold engine starting, so it's an option that ought-not be inconsiderately dismissed.
__ Applicable B-R.units (as pictured below) can be found for under 10-bucks.
____ It seems as-if you've been bypassing/overlooking parts of my later-completed post-wordings, (as I hadn't before been kept all caught-up with everything intended to be included within each of my most recent posts [which have since been finished], before you'd (rather prematurely) next add your brief-postings following right-after each under-construction posting)...
__ So to help keep wording-exchanges rather in an orderly-order within that section of this thread,, anything else that you decide to respond-to from my completed-posts, would be better-arranged if added within your already-posted* posts which directly follow each of my posts with whatever related topic-wording that you may next choose to respond-to. _ (* Which could be simply done by using the 'Edit' button seen near the top-right of your post-pages.)
__ However optionally, (now that this thread has further-expanded & overflowed over-onto this page-4),, you could now possibly rather choose to merely-just relate whatever thought(s) of interest you may find warrants any further discussion, over-onto this new-page, instead.
__ (As there's been a number of brought-up options which you've neither rejected nor further inquired about.)
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
Electrical upgrade
Moderator: ajleone
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
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Re: Electrical upgrade
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PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
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Re: Electrical upgrade
[quote= graeme ...
" I fitted a H4 LED bulb to a wc Scrambler in the hope of saving power drain. "
____ Why did you bother to do that for that reason Graeme ? _ Was it because you often do excessive low-RPM riding with lights always left turned-on while negotiating through down-town rush-hour type traffic-conditions ?
Or maybe rather perhaps because your charging-system has become crippled ? _ As it's not too awfully uncommon for one of the SCR/power-diodes within the stock regulator-units to go-bad and-thus cut-down charging-power to less than 50%.
__ Your (stock ?) charging-system should have no problem handling a 45-watt std.headlight during regular normal riding conditions ! _ But if you often happen to run with engine-revs down-near idle with lights left on too long,, then instead of taking the backward-step of sacrificing headlight-quality, you could rather adapt the 'Country/City' switch (with bridge-block) circuit that I used-to recommend for the old Ducati bevel-twins (with their ['150w'] dual half-wave R/R.setup).
" This the LED does. "
____ How many watts does your chosen LED.headlight-bulb consume ?
Do you know what it's claimed candle-power is, or what it's lumen-rating is ?
__ Since you seem disappointed with your particular choice, have you ever considered trying another LED.model ? _ Cuz there are many different H4-type models that provide a significantly wide range of advancements, (the light-output of an advanced example is found demonstrated at this link... http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 5_eS1QayiQ
Dukaddy-DUKEs,
DCT-Bob
" I fitted a H4 LED bulb to a wc Scrambler in the hope of saving power drain. "
____ Why did you bother to do that for that reason Graeme ? _ Was it because you often do excessive low-RPM riding with lights always left turned-on while negotiating through down-town rush-hour type traffic-conditions ?
Or maybe rather perhaps because your charging-system has become crippled ? _ As it's not too awfully uncommon for one of the SCR/power-diodes within the stock regulator-units to go-bad and-thus cut-down charging-power to less than 50%.
__ Your (stock ?) charging-system should have no problem handling a 45-watt std.headlight during regular normal riding conditions ! _ But if you often happen to run with engine-revs down-near idle with lights left on too long,, then instead of taking the backward-step of sacrificing headlight-quality, you could rather adapt the 'Country/City' switch (with bridge-block) circuit that I used-to recommend for the old Ducati bevel-twins (with their ['150w'] dual half-wave R/R.setup).
" This the LED does. "
____ How many watts does your chosen LED.headlight-bulb consume ?
Do you know what it's claimed candle-power is, or what it's lumen-rating is ?
__ Since you seem disappointed with your particular choice, have you ever considered trying another LED.model ? _ Cuz there are many different H4-type models that provide a significantly wide range of advancements, (the light-output of an advanced example is found demonstrated at this link... http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 5_eS1QayiQ
Dukaddy-DUKEs,
DCT-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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graeme
- Posts: 1006
- Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:00 am
- Location: Tasmania Australia
Re: Electrical upgrade
Hi Bob,
To answer your questions,
The motorcycle is an RT that I fitted with a Scrambler alternator,12v V twin reg-rect, Acewell dash with speedo and tach etc and small 12v Yuassa battery.
(there is a post here a year or more ago)
Sorry but as I only have internet from an iPhone (and I'm old) I can't give you a link.
With a 55/60 H4 headlight on at night and everything else, I'd get about 20kms at average revs of around 4000 before the engine would start to loose spark until I turned the headlight off then the normal engine noise would continue.
The LED bulb fixed this problem.
Smaller wattage H4 bulbs were not easily available to me so the easy fix was the LED.
Regards
Graeme
To answer your questions,
The motorcycle is an RT that I fitted with a Scrambler alternator,12v V twin reg-rect, Acewell dash with speedo and tach etc and small 12v Yuassa battery.
(there is a post here a year or more ago)
Sorry but as I only have internet from an iPhone (and I'm old) I can't give you a link.
With a 55/60 H4 headlight on at night and everything else, I'd get about 20kms at average revs of around 4000 before the engine would start to loose spark until I turned the headlight off then the normal engine noise would continue.
The LED bulb fixed this problem.
Smaller wattage H4 bulbs were not easily available to me so the easy fix was the LED.
Regards
Graeme
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
- Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
Re: Electrical upgrade
____ Thanks for your reply Graeme !
[quote= graeme ...
" The motorcycle is an RT that I fitted with a Scrambler alternator, "
____ Then I assume you mean a w-c.type 6-pole alternator.
" 12v V twin reg-rect, "
____ Then that makes you at-least the third person who I've heard-of to have straightforwardly adopted the implementation of such a Ducati-R/R-unit from the old bevel-twins. _ Only difference is that in your case, your charging-system was found to be inadequate due-to your originally-chosen headlight's power-demand being pretty-much double that of the stock-headlight power-consumption, (without also accordingly increasing revs to compensate).
So you have-to either take some step to increase your charging-power output-level, or provide yourself an option to reduce headlight power-consumption.
" (there is a post here a year or more ago) "
____ I recall that, and here are links to your related posts...
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1320&start=10#p9008
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1320#p8997
" With a 55/60 H4 headlight on
, I'd get about 20kms at average revs of around 4000 before the engine would start to loose spark "
____ That disappointing happenstance of-course occurs because the excessive 55-watt minimum load-demand requires greater engine-revs in order to keep the battery from draining-down.
For lower engine-revs, you could better get-by with the 'Country/City-switch' (with bridge-block) circuit I've recommended !
__ Also, Sylvania has produced a special 65/45-watt H4-bulb that you could no-doubt take better advantage of,
and I've seen that bulb-model listed on eBay for 18-bucks each.
____ In order to better determine the actual amount of shortfall in charge-rate,, instead of noting the distance traveled before a fully-charged battery runs-down (to the point of insufficient ign.spark), it's more useful to rather note the length of 'time' it takes. _ As with that data, it's then fairly easy to do the math for determining how much the charging-system contributes to the battery's amp-hour longevity.
__ To only be able to travel just 20KMs,, is not-only indicative of insufficient charging-rate, but-also of a battery with questionable adherence to a suitable amp/hour rating, (as a good-condition 5-amp/hour 12v.battery [without help] ought-to adequately power a 60-watt load for at-least a half-hour).
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
[quote= graeme ...
" The motorcycle is an RT that I fitted with a Scrambler alternator, "
____ Then I assume you mean a w-c.type 6-pole alternator.
" 12v V twin reg-rect, "
____ Then that makes you at-least the third person who I've heard-of to have straightforwardly adopted the implementation of such a Ducati-R/R-unit from the old bevel-twins. _ Only difference is that in your case, your charging-system was found to be inadequate due-to your originally-chosen headlight's power-demand being pretty-much double that of the stock-headlight power-consumption, (without also accordingly increasing revs to compensate).
So you have-to either take some step to increase your charging-power output-level, or provide yourself an option to reduce headlight power-consumption.
" (there is a post here a year or more ago) "
____ I recall that, and here are links to your related posts...
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1320&start=10#p9008
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1320#p8997
" With a 55/60 H4 headlight on
, I'd get about 20kms at average revs of around 4000 before the engine would start to loose spark "
____ That disappointing happenstance of-course occurs because the excessive 55-watt minimum load-demand requires greater engine-revs in order to keep the battery from draining-down.
For lower engine-revs, you could better get-by with the 'Country/City-switch' (with bridge-block) circuit I've recommended !
__ Also, Sylvania has produced a special 65/45-watt H4-bulb that you could no-doubt take better advantage of,
and I've seen that bulb-model listed on eBay for 18-bucks each.
____ In order to better determine the actual amount of shortfall in charge-rate,, instead of noting the distance traveled before a fully-charged battery runs-down (to the point of insufficient ign.spark), it's more useful to rather note the length of 'time' it takes. _ As with that data, it's then fairly easy to do the math for determining how much the charging-system contributes to the battery's amp-hour longevity.
__ To only be able to travel just 20KMs,, is not-only indicative of insufficient charging-rate, but-also of a battery with questionable adherence to a suitable amp/hour rating, (as a good-condition 5-amp/hour 12v.battery [without help] ought-to adequately power a 60-watt load for at-least a half-hour).
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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graeme
- Posts: 1006
- Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:00 am
- Location: Tasmania Australia
Re: Electrical upgrade
Yes 6 pole from a wc 450 scrambler.
Thanks for the advice re the Sylvania H4
Graeme
Thanks for the advice re the Sylvania H4
Graeme
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
- Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
Re: Electrical upgrade
[quote= graeme ...
" Thanks for the advice re the Sylvania H4 "
____ I've previously covered news of it's existence over 3-years ago - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=106&p=4632&hilit=Sylvania#p4632 , as I figured it's unique H/L.beam-combo with it's 45-watt low-beam would thusly make it rather useable, (while yet it's 65w.high-beam could still provide an extra-bright light for the temporary/short times when such lighting is usually called-for).
__ Even-still however, ya really couldn't continually pussyfoot-around with lower-eng.revs for too very long though, as the average-RPM of more normal/regular riding would still remain called-for (in order to prevent the battery from not-receiving sufficient charging-time).
____ If not really interested in installing the entire circuit of my 'Country/City-switch' suggestion,, you could rather skip-over the inclusion of the switch and merely-just try-out that which Hans has done, and more simply only hook-up just an added pair of power-diodes (which are conveniently contained within a bridge-block, for rather easy/simplistic mounting !).
That way, you could then experience the advantageous benefit that full-wave rectification provides during the lower range of average engine-revs which you're most apt-to ride at, (with a higher wattage headlight powered-up).
See the schematic-diagram below with the (slightly) simplified circuit for simple connection of a diode-bridge's required pair of power-diodes.
__ However, I much rather suggest trying-out the previously mentioned 45-watt headlight, first, (since it's doubtful that even the full-wave rectification will provide enough power to continually run the 55-watt headlight [either at low or top RPM]) !
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
" Thanks for the advice re the Sylvania H4 "
____ I've previously covered news of it's existence over 3-years ago - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=106&p=4632&hilit=Sylvania#p4632 , as I figured it's unique H/L.beam-combo with it's 45-watt low-beam would thusly make it rather useable, (while yet it's 65w.high-beam could still provide an extra-bright light for the temporary/short times when such lighting is usually called-for).
__ Even-still however, ya really couldn't continually pussyfoot-around with lower-eng.revs for too very long though, as the average-RPM of more normal/regular riding would still remain called-for (in order to prevent the battery from not-receiving sufficient charging-time).
____ If not really interested in installing the entire circuit of my 'Country/City-switch' suggestion,, you could rather skip-over the inclusion of the switch and merely-just try-out that which Hans has done, and more simply only hook-up just an added pair of power-diodes (which are conveniently contained within a bridge-block, for rather easy/simplistic mounting !).
That way, you could then experience the advantageous benefit that full-wave rectification provides during the lower range of average engine-revs which you're most apt-to ride at, (with a higher wattage headlight powered-up).
See the schematic-diagram below with the (slightly) simplified circuit for simple connection of a diode-bridge's required pair of power-diodes.
__ However, I much rather suggest trying-out the previously mentioned 45-watt headlight, first, (since it's doubtful that even the full-wave rectification will provide enough power to continually run the 55-watt headlight [either at low or top RPM]) !
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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gmlaverda
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 9:32 pm
Re: Electrical upgrade
DCT-Bob wrote:____ It seems as-if you've been bypassing/overlooking parts of my later-completed post-wordings, (as I hadn't before been kept all caught-up with everything intended to be included within each of my most recent posts [which have since been finished], before you'd (rather prematurely) next add your brief-postings following right-after each under-construction posting)...
__ So to help keep wording-exchanges rather in an orderly-order within that section of this thread,, anything else that you decide to respond-to from my completed-posts, would be better-arranged if added within your already-posted* posts which directly follow each of my posts with whatever related topic-wording that you may next choose to respond-to. _ (* Which could be simply done by using the 'Edit' button seen near the top-right of your post-pages.)
__ However optionally, (now that this thread has further-expanded & overflowed over-onto this page-4),, you could now possibly rather choose to merely-just relate whatever thought(s) of interest you may find warrants any further discussion, over-onto this new-page, instead.
__ (As there's been a number of brought-up options which you've neither rejected nor further inquired about.)
Bob- I have not intentionally overlooked your comments, but have been considering some of the options you have presented. First off, I do not believe I will want to use the "country/city" switch you have proposed. Additionally I have thought about your option to separate the ignition from the battery system, but I would like to keep them together. And as a clarification ( I hope ), I can use the specified headlamp at the lower wattage ( 37.5 watts ) for my daylight riding needs. It sounds like it may be preferable to designing around the 60 watt setting. Or am I misunderstanding ? Thanks again
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
- Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
Re: Electrical upgrade
[quote= gmlaverda ...
" I have not intentionally overlooked your comments, "
____ I never really suspected such-as that exactly,, which is why I had used the word "seems", as it only seemed as if you had missed some things.
" I do not believe I will want to use the "country/city" switch you have proposed. "
____ It's intended advantage is to optionally allow near double the charging-power output during lower engine-revs (in City-mode), and-yet (in Country-mode) also allow the possibility of actually charging the battery whilst also powering the 60w.headlight filament-circuit during high-RPM, (without concern of then negatively/deficiently misbalancing the system, [since the dual half-wave rectification method rather includes the advantage of upward auto-adjusting power-regulation !]).
" I have thought about your option to separate the ignition from the battery system, but I would like to keep them together. "
____ Leaving the ign.system dependent on the battery, is of-course okay,, but under an encounterable possibility, the battery could possibly be found in a run-down condition which then absorbs too much alt.power-juice and leave too-little leftover to allow sufficient ign.spark to kick-start the engine, (until after the battery has been charged-up from another source). _ So in such case, it's then preferable to independently power the ignition-system separately from the battery-system, so that the engine can then still be possibly kick-started (even without any battery).
__ Since you apparently don't believe you'll ever require the optional boost of alt.charging-power (that's only really helpful for extended low-RPM riding with headlight left on), then that otherwise ignored optional power could rather be tapped-into for running the ign.system separately-independent from the battery-system.
However, in order to make that otherwise ignored pulsating-DC.power suitable for powering the ign.coil, you'd then also need a battery-eliminator circuit to filter the p-DC & store it's power-juice for when the ign.points close, (thus avoiding any need for the battery's stored straight-DC.power-juice !).
" as a clarification ,
I can use the specified headlamp at the lower wattage ( 37.5 watts ) for my daylight riding needs. "
____ Indeed, that's quite so ! _ Cuz even-though that wattage-level is about 10-watts greater than the stock headlight,, most-all optional charging-system schemes can constantly support such fairly moderate/non-extreme system-load, so long as the average engine-revs don't fall too near idle-speed (below 2500-RPM).
" It sounds like it may be preferable to designing around the 60 watt setting. "
____ Perhaps so, cuz other than riding at high-RPM with the dual half-wave rectification charging-system, the 60w.headlight-circuit otherwise can't possibly be supported without help from the battery. _ And-so (with the stock alternator), we can only address how long you can get away with riding with the 60w.circuit left constantly powered, before the battery eventually runs-down & finally discharges too far to maintain reliable ign.spark, (when the ign.system is left powered by the battery-system).
So if you don't care to ever leave the high-beam turned-on for too long, (such as over a half-hour straight),, then your possible options for a suitable charging-system scheme open-up to include a considerably greater variety of optional schemes.
__ However another option which could make the 60w.load-circuit rather manageable down-into the regular load-range, would be to connect it in series with a flasher-circuit, (which could be optionally engaged with a toggle-switched bypass-circuit). _ And that way, you'd then also be able to reap the advantage of flashing-light that's known to further increase awareness of oncoming motorcycles to other drivers during daylight-hours.
" Or am I misunderstanding ? "
____ I don't think so, as it seems you've been rather correctly understanding the concepts which I've been submitting.
However I'm not understanding your disinterest in choosing to make some kind of use for the available power that's otherwise normally ignored.
____ What aspect of your electrical-system project would you most like to discuss next ?
Enlightening-Cheers,
-Bob
" I have not intentionally overlooked your comments, "
____ I never really suspected such-as that exactly,, which is why I had used the word "seems", as it only seemed as if you had missed some things.
" I do not believe I will want to use the "country/city" switch you have proposed. "
____ It's intended advantage is to optionally allow near double the charging-power output during lower engine-revs (in City-mode), and-yet (in Country-mode) also allow the possibility of actually charging the battery whilst also powering the 60w.headlight filament-circuit during high-RPM, (without concern of then negatively/deficiently misbalancing the system, [since the dual half-wave rectification method rather includes the advantage of upward auto-adjusting power-regulation !]).
" I have thought about your option to separate the ignition from the battery system, but I would like to keep them together. "
____ Leaving the ign.system dependent on the battery, is of-course okay,, but under an encounterable possibility, the battery could possibly be found in a run-down condition which then absorbs too much alt.power-juice and leave too-little leftover to allow sufficient ign.spark to kick-start the engine, (until after the battery has been charged-up from another source). _ So in such case, it's then preferable to independently power the ignition-system separately from the battery-system, so that the engine can then still be possibly kick-started (even without any battery).
__ Since you apparently don't believe you'll ever require the optional boost of alt.charging-power (that's only really helpful for extended low-RPM riding with headlight left on), then that otherwise ignored optional power could rather be tapped-into for running the ign.system separately-independent from the battery-system.
However, in order to make that otherwise ignored pulsating-DC.power suitable for powering the ign.coil, you'd then also need a battery-eliminator circuit to filter the p-DC & store it's power-juice for when the ign.points close, (thus avoiding any need for the battery's stored straight-DC.power-juice !).
" as a clarification ,
I can use the specified headlamp at the lower wattage ( 37.5 watts ) for my daylight riding needs. "
____ Indeed, that's quite so ! _ Cuz even-though that wattage-level is about 10-watts greater than the stock headlight,, most-all optional charging-system schemes can constantly support such fairly moderate/non-extreme system-load, so long as the average engine-revs don't fall too near idle-speed (below 2500-RPM).
" It sounds like it may be preferable to designing around the 60 watt setting. "
____ Perhaps so, cuz other than riding at high-RPM with the dual half-wave rectification charging-system, the 60w.headlight-circuit otherwise can't possibly be supported without help from the battery. _ And-so (with the stock alternator), we can only address how long you can get away with riding with the 60w.circuit left constantly powered, before the battery eventually runs-down & finally discharges too far to maintain reliable ign.spark, (when the ign.system is left powered by the battery-system).
So if you don't care to ever leave the high-beam turned-on for too long, (such as over a half-hour straight),, then your possible options for a suitable charging-system scheme open-up to include a considerably greater variety of optional schemes.
__ However another option which could make the 60w.load-circuit rather manageable down-into the regular load-range, would be to connect it in series with a flasher-circuit, (which could be optionally engaged with a toggle-switched bypass-circuit). _ And that way, you'd then also be able to reap the advantage of flashing-light that's known to further increase awareness of oncoming motorcycles to other drivers during daylight-hours.
" Or am I misunderstanding ? "
____ I don't think so, as it seems you've been rather correctly understanding the concepts which I've been submitting.
However I'm not understanding your disinterest in choosing to make some kind of use for the available power that's otherwise normally ignored.
____ What aspect of your electrical-system project would you most like to discuss next ?
Enlightening-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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gmlaverda
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 9:32 pm
Re: Electrical upgrade
DewCatTea-Bob wrote:____ What aspect of your electrical-system project would you most like to discuss next ?
Bob-You have covered a fair amount of detail. At the moment the only item I can think of that needs discussing is the battery. Regarding the battery selection, what would be an appropriate amp-hour rating to look for? Thanks
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DewCatTea-Bob
- Posts: 2897
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
- Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
Re: Electrical upgrade
[quote= gmlaverda ...
" You have covered a fair amount of detail. "
____ It seems like I've barely scratched the surface, so-far !
" At the moment the only item I can think of that needs discussing is the battery.
what would be an appropriate amp-hour rating to look for? "
____ Finding a 12v.battery of any A/H.rating that takes full advantage of the available-space (like the stock 6v.version does), is the most relevant factor that well limits your selection.
__ I suspect that you might've already read-through the fairly recent thread in which the most suitably sized battery options were briefly discussed... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1890&p=14367&hilit=Yamaha+5.5AH#p14376 _ But while the commonly employed Yamaha battery happens to have acceptably suitable base-dimensions, it's height-dimension is rather quite short and consequently provides a minimal Amp/Hour-rating. _ I think the directly-following link is to a similar battery of the same dimensions... http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery ... rodID=2225 , and suspect this next link is to a bargain-priced version of the Yamaha battery... http://www.batterysharks.com/12-Volt-5- ... 12-5.5.htm
But for being better suited with a battery-system that has to contend with an over 60-watt load-system, a storage-battery size with over 7-Amp/hours capacity is rather preferably called-for.
I'm not personally experienced with the particular "14 amp hour" battery-model mentioned within the next linked thread-post - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=667&p=4874&hilit=14#p4874 , but if such a significantly greater A/H.rated 12v.battery actually well fits within the available bat.space-volume,, then with it's quite sufficient A/H.capacity, it would certainly be a preferable choice (especially for highly-loaded battery-systems that must also power the ign.system).
__ Anyhow, you ought-to prefer to obtain the largest battery which will still fit within the allotted volume-space (and has at-least a 5AH.rating). _ But keep in mind that the smaller the battery-AH.rating, the less able it is to hold system-voltage steady within the normal operating range,, and therefore also more apt-to require a regulator-circuit (not-only to help restrain system voltage-level, but-also to protect the battery-itself from possibly overheating [due-to any possible extensive-overcharging]).
____ So what's next ?
At this point,, you should still have plenty of questions remaining, to get all ironed-out.
__ Do you already have a source for various colors of 16-gauge wire, to construct some kind of wiring-harness ?
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
" You have covered a fair amount of detail. "
____ It seems like I've barely scratched the surface, so-far !
" At the moment the only item I can think of that needs discussing is the battery.
what would be an appropriate amp-hour rating to look for? "
____ Finding a 12v.battery of any A/H.rating that takes full advantage of the available-space (like the stock 6v.version does), is the most relevant factor that well limits your selection.
__ I suspect that you might've already read-through the fairly recent thread in which the most suitably sized battery options were briefly discussed... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1890&p=14367&hilit=Yamaha+5.5AH#p14376 _ But while the commonly employed Yamaha battery happens to have acceptably suitable base-dimensions, it's height-dimension is rather quite short and consequently provides a minimal Amp/Hour-rating. _ I think the directly-following link is to a similar battery of the same dimensions... http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery ... rodID=2225 , and suspect this next link is to a bargain-priced version of the Yamaha battery... http://www.batterysharks.com/12-Volt-5- ... 12-5.5.htm
But for being better suited with a battery-system that has to contend with an over 60-watt load-system, a storage-battery size with over 7-Amp/hours capacity is rather preferably called-for.
I'm not personally experienced with the particular "14 amp hour" battery-model mentioned within the next linked thread-post - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=667&p=4874&hilit=14#p4874 , but if such a significantly greater A/H.rated 12v.battery actually well fits within the available bat.space-volume,, then with it's quite sufficient A/H.capacity, it would certainly be a preferable choice (especially for highly-loaded battery-systems that must also power the ign.system).
__ Anyhow, you ought-to prefer to obtain the largest battery which will still fit within the allotted volume-space (and has at-least a 5AH.rating). _ But keep in mind that the smaller the battery-AH.rating, the less able it is to hold system-voltage steady within the normal operating range,, and therefore also more apt-to require a regulator-circuit (not-only to help restrain system voltage-level, but-also to protect the battery-itself from possibly overheating [due-to any possible extensive-overcharging]).
____ So what's next ?
At this point,, you should still have plenty of questions remaining, to get all ironed-out.
__ Do you already have a source for various colors of 16-gauge wire, to construct some kind of wiring-harness ?
Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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