Electrical upgrade

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ Glad to see you haven't yet dropped-out from this thread !
I've been continually adding thought-details to my previous-post due-to recent lack of progressive post-exchangings where many such optional details would've rather came-up within. _ In fact, I just happened to be adding still another of such, during the very time when you were submitting your last post near half an hour ago !



[quote= gmlaverda ... " I think that I would prefer to use a toggle-switch to control the lights and alternator power supply. "

____ That's fine.
Back in the '70s, I used-to add toggle-switches through the headlamp-shell as a handy location for mounting them (with little concern for appearance). _ But these-days, appearance is more of a concern on old DUKEs, and-so I figured you'd be more apt to desire a more modern appearing Jap.made handlebar-switch.
If you happen to have a local bike bone-yard, you could probably get such a multi-switch for a reasonable price, otherwise they can also be found on eBay for more varied prices.
(Not meaning to sway you away from toggle-switch employment.)
__ If you don't mind the appearance of additional toggle-switches, then you could use one for the main-lights and another rather separate t-switch for independently controlling charging-system power-output, (as I-myself always much preferred).
But if you prefer combining the two separate circuits through just one switch-action (as the Jap.bike-method logically arranged), then such t.switches have been available for handling such double-circuit simultaneous control.
Anyhow, while one switch-circuit will of-course be intended for handling the main-lights, the other/second switch will make & break the secondary-alt.connection to the rectifier.
That way, for times when the lights are-not turned-on & drawing power, a portion of the charging-system power can also be cut-off so that the resulted total power-output then won't be able to overwhelm the battery's ability to hold-down the system voltage-level, (and-thus also the charging-system & load-system are then better kept balanced, and thusly in much reduced need for any regulation, [as the Jap.switch-method logically addresses !]).
____ Do you intend to include a master/key-switch ?



" I would be enjoy hearing how you would design a system around the LED headlamp. "

____ First-off, your chosen-wording of "the LED", clues me to suspect that you've overlooked the later-added post-wording which I finally got-around to including within my previous-post (before today),, or-else you certainly wouldn't still have any interest in THAT (extravagantly overpriced !) LED.headlight, as that-one offers no real advantage to speak-of !
So if you may still be interested in a LED.light for the main advantage that they've become best known for, then you might find a H4-type bulb-holder/reflector-dish at your local bone-yard that could possibly be adapted into your headlamp. _ That way, you could then rather choose one of the very numerous economical LED.bulbs made to fit within such H4-setups, and thus-then take advantage of their relatively minor power-usage.


" in the future I would
enjoy hearing how you would design a system around the LED headlamp. "

____ Just before I discovered your last post, that was then going to be the very next subject which I was going-to further update my previous-post with, (just as I had back-then mentioned I might still go-ahead & do) ! _ However now that the subject has been brought-up again now, I'll more-sensibly rather cover it here instead.
____ The earlier referred-to PAR46-type LED.headlight unfortunately doesn't draw significantly less power than the std.lights do ! _ So the following info is only in regards to just the past available LED.lights which have well earned their reputation for requiring very-little power-consumption (such as 10-watts & under).
__ The required charging-system for running a regular load-system except rather with a LED.headlight substituted, only need be rather as simple as is possible...
And that means that just one power-diode would need to be connected to one of the yellow-wires so that only it's negative alt.power-juice is fed to ground, while the red-wire is connected to the battery's pos.terminal-post.
That simple half-wave rectification (of only one of the w-c.type 6-pole alt.stator-windings), should be good for near 30-watts.
So after the LED.headlight draws it's 5 to 15 watts (depending on the chosen LED.model), there's then enough power reserves left-over to power the rest of the load-system and keep the battery charged as well.
With that simplest of systems, ya could then possibly wire-up the low-beam to be left constantly powered-up, and just use a light-switch to optionally turn-on the high-beam to become also powered-up as well (simultaneously along-with the low-beam), (providing of-course that the chosen Hi/Low-LED.light-bulb's pair of circuits don't consume too awfully much more than 15-watts total).
Here's a link to such a LED.bulb... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesal ... 68630.html , (this model costs just under 9-bucks each).
With that particular 7.5-watt bulb,, the load-system & charging-system could be pretty-much exactly evenly-balanced during lower-RPMs with just the low-beam left on, and also evenly-balanced during higher-RPMs with the high-beam included into the entire load-system !
That way, the battery would then never be submitted to actually having-to regulate the system-power (as it otherwise would indeed be called-upon to do with merely 'balanced' systems [which more significantly vary depending-on RPM]).
(The above statements should be fairly understood by most-any of those who have already well-realized that regulator-circuits are really only required by systems which are almost never kept within 'balanced' state.)


Enlightening-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[gmlaverda]

Bob-I am not dropping out! Just working around all of the Christmas parties and planning, running around and decorating. It is getting busy. In fact we are hosting a party very shortly, but I plan to check back with the forum daily. Thanks

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= gmlaverda ...
" I am not dropping out!"

____ I had become concerned about that only because so very many others have started similar threads and-then inconsiderately never followed-through to any conclusion, thus leaving us all hanging in the air wondering exactly how they finished-up their system-projects !
__ That's sort-a kind-of pretty-much like investing a lot of your time watching a TV.mini-series (like 'Lost', for extra-good example) and-then never getting to see the last couple of episodes !
But perhaps I'm the only one who's ever fairly bothered by such as that. (?)


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[gmlaverda]

Yes Bob, I would like to use a master/key switch, preferably in the headlamp shell as original. The hole is already there and I think I can source a key switch easily if my old switch is corroded or failing internally. I do not think I would like a modern handlebar switch as I want a "vintage" look to the bike as much as possible even though I am straying from the original concept. So separate switches for lights and alternator. Thanks

[graeme]

Hello,
Just to add something which may not be of concern to you for daytime lights on use,,,
I fitted a H4 LED bulb to a wc Scrambler in the hope of saving power drain.
This the LED does.
But the LED "bulbs" don't place the light in the optimum spot for the reflector to send the light ahead to light the road very well for you to see the darkened road.
For oncoming traffic they work fine and are fairly bright.
Just something to be aware of.

Graeme

[gmlaverda]

Thanks Graeme. LED lights are rapidly improving and evolving but they do seem to have some limitations. In addition to your observation I have heard there are heat dissipation issues as well for some headlamps. For the time I will stay with the cheap tried and tested variety.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= gmlaverda ...
" I would like to use a master/key switch, preferably
my old switch "

____ I've been aware that you had the original alternator and headlamp-itself, but gathered that you had no other stock electrical-parts.
The stock key-switch is not-only a good choice, but also preferable ! _ The example you have has three terminal-sockets, correct ?



" I do not think I would like a modern handlebar switch as I want a "vintage" look to the bike "

____ That's fine ! _ As usual, I was not attempting to particularly sway you either way, (as I'm always also conscious of possibly inspiring other similarly interested readers of possible options).



" So separate switches for lights and alternator. "

____ So then, do I correctly gather that you're at-least okay with adding more than just one toggle-switch ? _ If so, then where would you intend on particularly locating them ?
Since you seem to accept using more than one toggle-switch, then a third circuit could also be considered for toggle-switch activation ! _ This extra-additional circuit I refer-to as a 'Country/City-switch'. _ That's the name I gave to the switch* seen in my schematic-diagram on the previous-page (* after discovering that Ducati had also added a toggle-switch with that label-designation to their original 860 model-line).
I never did learn for-sure what the specific function of Ducati's "Country/City" switch was actually intended for, however it made sense to me that the early bevel-twins 150w.charging-system needed to have it's power-output increased during the lower-RPM type of riding that's more suited within city-limits, (so I had then thought that Ducati had developed a similar idea as I had come-up with just half a year prior), so-thus I adopted the same name for my-own switch-circuit.
__ So anyhow, if you think you'll ever spend much time (like over an hour) riding in down-town type traffic-conditions, (thus then maintaining a lower average-RPM),, then you might wish to also include another toggle-switch for that function as well. _ Interested ?
____ Also, I gather that since you haven't followed-up on the submitted notion of separating the ign.system from the battery-system (so that it'd then be possible to run the engine without any battery),, that you're apparently not much interested in that particular option,
or hadn't you noticed that within my old post on the previous-page ?


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[gmlaverda]

Bob- yes , I have the original alternator and the headlight shell as well as a box of parts in questionable condition. I did locate the key-switch which does in fact have 3 terminals. It looks a little rough but upon testing does show continuity between the terminals. I had not really decided on a location yet for additional toggle switches but the headlight shell does have additional openings that could possible be used. If not suitable I could locate the switches discretely elsewhere such as under the seat within reach. I have done this on a BSA project of mine, mounting a switch under the seat.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= gmlaverda ...
" I have the original
headlight shell as well as a box of parts "

____ How-about any other electrical-parts, such as the ign.coil ?



" I did locate the key-switch which does in fact have 3 terminals. "

____ Good !
__ Do you have a supply of colored-wire for making your-own wire-harness ?



" I had not really decided on a location yet for additional toggle switches but the headlight shell does have additional openings that could possible be used. "

____ I think it would be fine to fill any preexisting unused holes in the lamp-shell with as many as two toggle-switches (and maybe perhaps three, at most).
__ I really envy the pleasure you'll enjoy when you're connecting-up all their wiring-circuits !


Fun-Cheers,
-Bob

[gmlaverda]

Bob-I did locate what appears to be the original coil as it has a "Ducati" decal on it. I also have the Aprilia headlight switch but it is broken and unusable. That is all that I have that is electrical.