Intro

[SebringMike]

Thanks for your ongoing comments.

I was able to acquire a heel-toe shifter on ebay, so we can take that off the needed list.

I emailed italian-motorbikes, and they assure me that their Silentiums have the logo, per their ebay add, so I'll probably buy one of those.

I'll check the exhaust pipe once I've stripped the bike down... it may be OK as is.

Still not sure what to do about the wheels. I read an old post on this forum and understand the issue with having them re-chromed is the spoke holes filling in with chrome, and also losing the logo. I'll speak to the chrome shop about that before proceeding.

I haven't started worrying about electrics yet, and haven't searched the forum, but from your collective memories... is there a "how-to" on the conversion to 12V?

Thanks again,
Mike

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= SebringMike ...
" is there a "how-to" on the conversion to 12V? "

____ Contrary to popular belief, there's really nothing about any of the stock charging-system parts that's actually 6-volts (in any n-c.system) ! _ So to convert to a 12-volt system,, all you'd actually need to do, is just simply replace the battery and lights with 12v.versions.
__ The only downside of converting to a 12v.system,, is that the minimum engine-RPM then has to be increased about 500-RPM higher, in order to surpass the break-even point and begin any charging of the battery.
__ Is the stock 'black-box' regulator-unit still intact and in good condition ?
And what kind of headlight do you hope to use ?


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[JimF]

I used a podtronics unit placed on two windings of my alternator and I have 14 volts DC now.

However, keep in mind having voltage and having power are two different things.

Although I have "12 volts" available, there is likely not enough power coming out of the alternator to run the common 12-volt variety 55-watt headlight. I haven't tried it anyway.

Road and Race in Australia offers a replacement alternator that offers more power (reportedly 150 watts of power) but it comes at the substantial price of AUD $575 plus shipping:

http://roadandrace.com.au/alternator_conversions.htm


Jim

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= JimF ...
" I used a podtronics unit placed on two windings of my alternator and I have 14 volts DC now. "

____ I'm somewhat left in the dark to assume that you're referring to your Mark-III and it's 4-pole '40-watt' alternator,, in which case, that's not too closely relevant to the Sebring's 6-pole 60-watt alternator (which has all internally-grounded power-coil circuits that aren't compatible with grounded full-wave rectifiers like your Podtronics-unit).
__ Even-though this is getting further off-topic here, I've become pretty curious as to what you seemingly might've changed since you last reported exactly what you've done with your Mark-III's electrical-system ! ...
As I recall lastly,, for convenience-sake (concerning your alternator's pair of separate AC.power-sources), you chose to reconnect-up your grounded lighting-coil so as to rather power the ign.system so that you could then connect-up your Podtronics-unit to the conveniently ungrounded ign.power-coil,, all redone just so that you could then be able to convert the ign.power-coil's output into DC so as to then be able to more properly power your chosen LED.type main-lighting. _ That much was made pretty-clear before.
However now (for the first time I've heard-of), you seem to indicate that you've connected your Pod.unit to both of the "two windings" of your alternator ! _ And that now leaves me rather confused as to exactly how you could've possibly connected your full-wave rectifying (single-phase ?)- Pod.unit to both power-coils !?
Such possibility leaves me with lots of questions, (such as did you somehow modify your alt.stator, and did you change the type of ign.system, etc/etc. ?) !
__ So could you please elaborate on this ?
Did you have-to make this change because your original lighting-coil finally burned-up from being left connected to the magneto-type ign.system too long ? _ And if-so, what ohm-value did your lighting-coil's resistance-level finally deteriorate down to ?
.


" a replacement alternator that offers more power (reportedly 150 watts of power) "

____ Only those who intend to often ride in stop&go down-town traffic with an extra powerful headlight always kept fully powered-up, ever need to consider going to such an extravagant extreme.
However if ya happen to have the spare cash and inclination to install such an entirely different system anyhow, then by all means go-ahead & do so,, as we'd all like to know how it all turns-out for ya !


Dukaddy-Dukes,
-Bob

[SebringMike]

The engine of my Sebring is marked with DM350 01146.
I spent some time today going over the frame and noted numbers stamped on the frame tube (hidden under the paint); DM350*01054*.
Any significance to these numbers?
It's my understanding that the frames were un-marked when brought into North America, and stamped once here. Am I correct in my understanding?

Other things to note on the dis-assembly;
1) one of the ball bearings appears to have come loose from the front fork damper valve and done a pile of damage.
2) front and rear mudguards are severely cracked, so off to a friends for TIG welding and reinforcement (underneath).
3) took me three tries to find the correct seat for the bike, now just have to have the seat re-upholstered.
4) centre stand shaft and housing severely worn; replacement shaft purchased and housing rebuilt.
5) front fork sliders are in very rough shape; not sure what to do here.
6) rebuilt the speedo... looks pretty good considering it's 50 years old.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

[double diamond]

Mike,
Ducatis imported by Berliner did not have frame numbers. The only chassis identification was a thin metal badge affixed to the steering head. On this badge the engine and frame number were recorded. The engine number served as frame number but there was no number stamped in the frame anywhere. There were some North American importers that dealt directly with Ducati (Ghost in New York, Brooks in California, others?) that likely received bikes with frame numbers. I have a frame that I picked up in California near the Brooks location and it has a frame number in the Ducati factory format . The Canadian Ducati importer also seemed to receive bikes with frame numbers stamped in the location where yours is stamped. So, take your pick, Ghost, Brooks or Canada. With those Alberta plates on your garage wall, I’d imagine the latter. I’ve seen a few forks where damper valve balls have come out of the valve body and left impact marks on the end of the fork tube and the threaded plug at the bottom of the fork slider when the fork bottoms out. The slider plug can be removed, welded up and machined back to original profile. If the end of the fork tube is dinged up, it makes it impossible to remove the damper valve unless you destroy the fork tube. I have at least one slider where it appears that a ball wedged between the fork tube and slider and left deep grooves in the aluminum slider. Not much you can do if the slider is damaged other than replace it. Matt

[SebringMike]

Thanks for the feedback Matt.
The forks came apart surprisingly easy. So replacing the valves should be easy... the fork sliders could be a little more expensive.
I say fork sliders... maybe they should be called fork tubes?
Either way, if I can't find some good old sliders/tubes, I'll have these ones re-plated.
Onward and upward with my dis-assembly!
Mike