clutch cable question

[narrow_monza]

Yes that's my bike.
I shortened the cable but made sure it still routed without any sharp bends. I managed to remove and put the ferrule back but it wasn't perfect as new, but good enough.

-Adrian

[narrow_monza]

I think I misunderstood your question.
Inthink you are referring to the ferrule on the cable itself (not the cap on the sleeve).
My replacement cable had a screw-on ferrule on one end of the cable, so that was easy.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= cooperplace ...
" I've just installed a new cable on my 250 monza and it looks
too long to me, "

____ The rather excessive looking loop near the right handlebar, would become unnoticeable if rather further diverted-down towards around the left-side of the cylinder,, by routing the cable downward (from the hand-lever) on the INNER-side of the right-side headlamp-support (instead of over it).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[cooperplace]

[quote= cooperplace ...
" I've just installed a new cable on my 250 monza and it looks
too long to me, "

____ The rather excessive looking loop near the right handlebar, would become unnoticeable if rather further diverted-down towards around the left-side of the cylinder,, by routing the cable downward (from the hand-lever) on the INNER-side of the right-side headlamp-support (instead of over it).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

I've just done that, and you're right. Thanks.

[blaat!]

Reviving this post about a clutch being hard to pull. I just finished building the bike and the clutch lever is absurdly hard to pull. I've been sorting so many other things I hadn't gotten to troubleshooting it. Then... SNAP! the cable end at the hand lever popped off a brand new cable

Think this is solder or lead?

cable-end-B.JPG

cable-end-A.JPG

I'm hoping I might be able to put it back together. I've always brazed them on with silver solder, but not sure I could clean off the existing stuff well enough to use my own method, so probably just need to use the same thing used previously.

Also, is this what you were talking about on the dimensions of the lever (Bevel) Bob?

lever-geometry.jpg

If so, the 1" dimension could be the reason it is so hard to pull. Either way I don't think a cable end should pop off. The force on the cable is the same to pull in the clutch no matter the leverage at the hand lever. Now if the clutch end is the problem, then that is a different story.

The lever at the push rod end seems to be adjusted per Nigel's recommendation so no issue there.

Did you ever get your clutch sorted Adrian?

[Bevel bob]

Those levers look like they may be orriginals?, Last time I saw some was 1965 and they did not last long!!. The center to center measurement on my home made ones is approx 5/8" and is only just enough lift with the special Lacey thick and fewer plates.

[blaat!]

But that is the dimension you are referring to, right Bob?

They are the closest ones I could find to original, which may have been a bad choice in hindsight since that 1" dimension is adding to my woes, if not causing them

[Jordan]

Think this is solder or lead?

I'm hoping I might be able to put it back together. I've always brazed them on with silver solder, but not sure I could clean off the existing stuff well enough to use my own method, so probably just need to use the same thing used previously.

Looks like it was soldered, badly.
The inner cable strands may not have been splayed enough.
Unsoldered section can be seen, indicating that a soldering iron was used at both sides of the nipple, but not sufficiently heated for it to allow the molten solder to fully flood the whole available length.
A properly fluxed and soldered Bowden cable should be adequate.

It might come good if reworked, but if not a new inner cable with fresh, unoxydised metal has a better chance for solder to stick to.

My own frequent failures with Bowden cable soldering were finally brought to an end when a solder pot was suggested.
Make your own or get an electric one from ebay - cheap!

[blaat!]

Starting to believe the hard clutch pull is an issue closer to the clutch for me. I borrowed a force gauge, and pushing the clutch lever is over 250 Nm (the limit of this force gauge). It starts to move around 220Nm, but goes over that pretty quickly:

lever.JPG

Who knew you could remove a spring through the clutch inspection cover! Probably everyone but me

One spring compressed 5mm (from 30mm to 25mm) is about 75-80 Nm:

spring.JPG

Anyone know if these numbers sound typical or totally insane?

Thanks!

[Duccout]

I don't know about the springs rated force, but the clutch shouldn't be hard to pull, in my opinion anyway! Have you had the clutch apart? Burrs on the plates will cause friction as will burrs or lack of lubrication on the pushrod. Apologies if you have already inspected these points. I don't think that pushing on the clutch operating arm will tell you much as the leverage is so small there, it is more likely to be a sharp bend in the cable causing the hard pull.