Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Volts

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DewCatTea-Bob
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Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Volts

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Mon May 13, 2013 9:18 pm

____ I just shortly ago today discovered the two posted-posts below which had been placed within another thread that I had been ignoring because it's thread-title ( viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1423#p10048 ) was concerning a Duke-model which I've never been familiar with. _ Otherwise I would've responded within THAT thread in a more timely manor.
__ Because it seems that these two posts are rather out-of-place in THAT thread, I've thus determined them both worthy of 'quoting'-forthward into THIS more suitably titled thread, for me (& whoever-else -[hopefully at-least 'Ducwiz']) to respond to.



JimF wrote:I don't know Mototrans bikes but converting to 12-volts can be challenging. There are many threads in this forum about doing it with your existing alternator at one end of the spectrum and then at the other end of the spectrum there are aftermarket alternators that might get you a few extra watts of power for the change-over but they are expensive.


You'll have to remember that if you upgrade you have to change all your light bulbs, your horn, your regulator, your battery and possibly (probably) your ignition coil too.


Power is power, regardless of whether or not it comes in 6-volt or 12-volt flavor. What I am saying is that 50 watts in a 12-volt system is the same as 50 watts in a 6-volt system. There is absolutely no difference.


Some reasons to change are perhaps 6-volt consumables like light bulbs might only get harder and harder to find. In a 6-volt system the current (amperage) is doubled over that demanded by a equal 12-volt system requiring larger gauge wires, but wire is relatively cheap.


Six volt systems suffer more easily from power loss in poor (resistive) interconnections, but we should not have any poor connections anyway.


Jim
____ I have no issues with any of Jim's post-wording,, other than he has left-out a useful comma, thus leaving his wording to seem as-if stating a 12v.system requires "larger gauge wires", (which at-least I-MYSELF happen to know he didn't actually mean).
Many of us type of people already realize that the higher current-flow which SIX-volt systems have (for an equal amount of power @12v), should also have correspondingly HEAVIER-gauge wire to better cope with the DOUBLED current-flow. _ So 12v.systems are the systems which can more easily get-by with thinner gauged wiring.
____ I note that many writers & readers don't properly make use of commas, which makes it a bit more work for the reader to figure-out what the writer is actually meaning to convey, and thus possibly either lead-to misinterpretation, or just confusion (which the reader thus-then chooses to bypass & overlook).
__ I-MYSELF use a single comma for the std.normal reasons, and a double-comma to make-SURE that the reader doesn't overlook & ignore the camma's intended-purpose (whenever it's MOST needed). _ Comma-placement can really make a significant-difference in how a sentence is to be interpreted, so they ought-not be ignored (as too-many writers seem to do these-days) !
__ Also,, I-MYSELF also add 'hyphens' -(these marks: - ), which are intended to have the OPPOSITE-effect of a 'comma', which also helps to guide the reader away-from otherwise possible wording miss-association, (so-as to also help avoid confusion.)



StewartD wrote:Syruphead, Jim,

I converted my 450 Desmo to 12 volts and the 6 volt horn was left as it was. It really screamed but it lasted for the 10 years I rode that bike. I didn't use the horn that much though. I am doing the same on my Mach 1 that I have only just got back on the road. Will the life of the horn be shortened? Also I'm wondering if a relay for the horn button would be desirable.

On the issue of power from a 6 volt versus 12 volt conversion, I thought that current induced in a coil by a permanent magnet is determined by the strength of magnetic field and the number of coils of wire. I couldn't find anything on the net to confirm this. It is something I remember from long ago in Technical College.

Wikipedia has the following on voltage produced by a permanent magnet alternator:

"....Since the permanent magnet field is constant, the terminal voltage varies directly with the speed of the generator."

The standard Ducati regulator limits the voltage to 6 volts and a conversion such as mine, will limit the voltage to 12 volts, by using a zener diode.

So if current is the same and if the system voltage is changed from 6 volt to 12 volts, the power output is doubled. My experience with the 450 seemed to confirm this. I used higher wattage globes and never had problems with batteries going flat. The 450 was my only transport for much of the 10 years I had it, and it did lots of work at night.

This sounds too good to be true; am I missing something here?

Cheers,

Stewart

quote= StewartD...
" I converted my 450 Desmo to 12 volts and the 6 volt horn was left as it was.
I am doing the same on my Mach 1 that I have only just got back on the road. Will the life of the horn be shortened? "

____ Yes, but only if you keep your horn-button pressed too-long. _ If it doesn't get any chance to overheat,, then electrically, it should last about the same. _ Mechanically though, it's heavier blast-vibration may whack it out of life sooner,, (but as you've already proven for yourself, that's evidently not much of a concern).


" Also I'm wondering if a relay for the horn button would be desirable. "

____ When the contacts of the horn-button are not easily able to conduct ALL the current-demand of the horn, (which is more likely in 6v.systems), then a horn-relay is useful for getting a horn started & blasting louder. _ Since your 6v.horn will draw even MORE current with your 12v.system,, a horn-relay would thus-then be even more useful for allowing the extra current-draw to fully pass-through the horn, (instead of being somewhat curtailed by passing-through the 'bottle-neck' horn-button).
However, the extra efficiency which the relay-switch would provide, would likely not-only allow your 6v.horn to pass more power-juice,, but also, that possible extra current-flow would likely also help to cut-down your horn-life, as well.
So if you're content with your horn's operation as it is, then you might-as-well leave it's switch-setup as-is.
__ Many of those of us who have experienced how meagerly-faint our 6v.system horns can become (when any of it's circuit-parts have become weakened), ought-to consider a horn-relay setup (so that their horn can THEN get fed most-ALL of the available 6-volts).
Since so much of the voltage can become absorbed within the circuit-connections & rather thin-wiring (on 6v.models), it's too-bad that horn-manufacturers don't offer 4v.rated-horns for sale !



" On the issue of power from a 6 volt versus 12 volt conversion, I thought that current induced in a coil by a permanent magnet is determined by the strength of magnetic field and the number of coils of wire. "

____ That's pretty-much basically true...
__ To elaborate on that...
First I should point-out that I-myself am not one to 'dumb-down' aspects of such electrical-topics, so it's possible that anyone with mere BASIC-electrical training may think that they disagree with that which I claim, but any such possible disagreement has more to do with their learned basic misuse of related terminology,, (such as what the term 'voltage' is supposed to actually represent).
__ As I understand it, it's not the number of 'turns' so much as it is the 'length' of wire that can be fit (in any organized way) within the space where the magnetic-field/flux-strength is concentrated. _ Coils just do that job best.
__ The moving magnetic-field merely induces electrical 'tension' -(pressure, [which can be measured in 'voltage']), and 'current' can only come-into resulting-existence when a connected circuit allows that tension to bleed-down, (thus-then lowering the intensity of the built-up tension).



" Wikipedia has the following on voltage produced by a permanent magnet alternator:
Since the permanent magnet field is constant, the terminal voltage varies directly with the speed of the generator.
____ That's also fairly-true but, I'd prefer it worded like: Since the magnetic-field is permanently-established as-is, any resulting 'tension' varies-accordingly with the speed of it's flux-lines passing through the stator-winding, - (as related to our DUCATI-alternators).
(They can justifiably get-by with stating "voltage" [rather than 'tension'] because, they had stated: "terminal voltage", which indicates measuring a reading-level, [which is only done in 'voltage' readings].)



" The standard Ducati regulator limits the voltage to 6 volts and a conversion such as mine, will limit the voltage to 12 volts, by using a zener diode. "

____ That's not an actually accurate statement... As the Ducati regulator-circuits, (both n-c & w-c types), don't directly-limit 'voltage' (to 6-volts), like a Zener-diode is able to-do. _ Rather, they regulate current-flow instead, which thus keeps voltage from being able to build-up. _ So unlike a Zener-diode voltage-regulator circuit, the Ducati-regulators actually depend on the battery to keep the system voltage-level down to the battery's set-level.
__ I, for-one, would like to have you explain pretty-much exactly how you have your particular 12v.system all set-up.



" So if current is the same and if the system voltage is changed from 6 volt to 12 volts, the power output is doubled. "

____ Well THAT statement, just as you happen to have it worded, would of-course indeed be true,, however, not only have you made your power-supplies '12-volts', you must've ALSO made your (rather constant) power-loads '12-volts', as well ! _ Right ?
And that being the case, the resulting 'current' is NOT "the same", and is consequently cut-down in-HALF,, so-thus, the 'power' (which is both 'voltage' & 'current' combined), remains the same !
__ So if what Jim had stated about this 'power' related matter, is that which you were not quite in concert with,, then now you should no-longer be overlooking the actual-fact.



" My experience with the 450 seemed to confirm this. I used higher wattage globes and never had problems with batteries going flat.
This sounds too good to be true; am I missing something here? "

____ Yes, I expect that's probably the case but, to figure-out exactly what was actually responsible for the particular high-function of your 12v.system, we need to know what-all rectification-component types you employed.
I'd much like to know, so I can then explain what processes your 12v.system was taking advantage of.


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

Jordan
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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby Jordan » Mon May 13, 2013 10:56 pm

If you leave the alternator standard, and just use a different regulator to get 12V, there is a drawback - the engine needs to rev higher to begin charging the battery.
It's not so bad to keep with 6V. Everything's available - lamps, etc.
A relay for the light dipper switch is a worthwhile mod, to keep the high current from melting it!

Jordan

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12-volt vs. 6-volt Related-stuff

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Mon May 13, 2013 11:26 pm

[quote= Jordan...
" If you leave the alternator standard, and just use a different regulator to get 12V, there is a drawback - the engine needs to rev higher to begin charging the battery. "

____ Good-post, Jordan !
____ Yes higher revs are required in order to attain the higher-energy voltage-level that's needed to begin any charging of a 12v.battery, but it's not double the revs as would be basically-expected.
__ According to calculations, if a 6v.battery begins taking-in charging-juice at 2000-RPM, then a 12v.battery, (in an otherwise equal system), should begin taking-in charging-juice at 2828-RPM.
That's because the 'tension' builds-up relatively-fast when it has no-where to bleed-off to.
__ But all this is still not as discouraging for the 12v.battery as it may seem,,
as (compared to a 6v.battery), it's also not discharging at a rate that ya might think it would (below the 2828-RPM), because the charging-system is then carrying most of the load (so that the battery isn't having to do-so, and-thus is barely loosing any charge then).
(Although within that narrow 828-RPM.range, a 6v.battery would-not be loosing any charge at all.)
__ Also, due to that circumstance,, a 12v.system is more efficient because, (for one reason), it doesn't WASTE as much alt.charging-juice. _ That's because a 6v.battery will sooner allow alt.charging-power to flow-through it to ground, instead of that power being left-over to be consumed by the rest of the load-system.
This more efficient use of the generated power can actually occur with a 12v.battery-system because storage-batteries, (unlike capacitors !), don't really STORE-up ALL the charging/power-juice which enters into them ! ... Depending on the battery's state of charge, a good portion of the charging-juice that goes-into the battery, will simply pass-through & become wasted to ground without being saved-up & stored ! _ And a 6v.battery will begin doing that undesired consumption of power SOONER than a 12v.battery will !
So-thus this added efficiency-advantage of a 12v.battery, pretty-much cancels-out the fact that it won't begin to charge quite as soon as a 6-volt battery can (as eng.revs climb).



" A relay for the light dipper switch is a worthwhile mod, to keep the high current from melting it! "

____ Yes indeed, a relay-switch is quite worthy for use in the headlight-circuits (when the 6v.headlight is 45-watts or higher) !
(As CURRENT-wise, 6v@45w has the same current-flow as 12v@90w !)


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby JimF » Tue May 14, 2013 3:30 am

.

"In a 6-volt system the current (amperage) is doubled over that demanded by a equal 12-volt system requiring larger gauge wires, but wire is relatively cheap."


OK, it is a little vague - I was trying to indicate that it is the 6-volt system that needs the larger gauge wires. I am sure my 6th grade grammar teacher would scold me for my poor sentence structure.


" A relay for the light dipper switch is a worthwhile mod, to keep the high current from melting it! "


The sponsors of this forum actually sell a little headlight relay, in 6-volt and 12-volt flavours but only for DC systems.

http://www.culayer.com/Matchbox.htm

Now don't run out and buy one just to sponsor the website. I am running low on them anyway and will run out soon, so after that it will take a month to get new boards made. I mention the relay here and now only so I can somewhat justify the business paying for this website since "technically" I just advertised here. We now return you to our normal "no advertisment" forum.



Jim

StewartD
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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby StewartD » Tue May 14, 2013 8:01 am

Mach 1 wiring.jpg


Bob,

Thanks for the trouble you have gone to. Here is the set up on my current Mach 1 project. It has been running, but not for many miles yet.

The red wires are from positive side of rectifier. The red wire in foreground is connecting to the inline fuse holder that is retained in a grommet in the aluminium plate. The other red wire connects to the big spade connector on the zener diode. The spade connectors other red wire goes into the main loom up to the headlight mounted ignition switch.

From memory my 450 was the same setup. I definitely used a Lucas zener diode and the bridge rectifier from the electronic hobbyist's shop.

Good point about length of wire versus number of turns in the coil and current flow being regulated in standard 6 volt system.

The comments about the power loss at connections I am conscious of. I have tried to make the circuit as simple as possible. I remember the standard fuses on the 450 probably contributed to high losses. The brass fuse holders were very flimsy and vulnerable to dirt and corrosion.

I am a bit lost when you and Jordan are discussing the revs at which charging starts; bleed off etc.

Any further explanation of these aspects of 6 volt/12 volt systems would be most welcome.

Cheers,

Stewart D
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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby Jordan » Tue May 14, 2013 9:54 am

Hi Stewart,

To charge a battery, you must have a current that flows into it, in the opposite direction that it normally flows out of it when powering loads. No current will flow into the battery unless the charging voltage is higher than the battery's.
An alternator makes zero volts at zero revs, and progressively more volts at progressively higher speeds.
Your nominally 6 volt alternator will make lots of volts, given enough revs. Unregulated, it might make over 30 volts at 8,000 rpm. A regulator prevents the voltage from going too high for the battery's good.
You probably won't ride at racing revs all the time, and at a more likely 3,000 rpm around town, you might get 8V.
That'd be heaps to charge a 6V battery. But to get enough voltage to charge your 12V battery, you might need over 4,000 rpm.

You mention a Lucas zener diode, an excellent device. You're probably aware that the Lucas alternator that these were designed for can happily provide enough voltage for either 6V or 12V systems. I don't think our Ducati singles' alternators are as capable. Your 12V conversion might be perfectly OK if high speeds are usual. Reports I've heard are along those lines - happy at high revs, fails for slowish riding norm.

That's a neat looking charge controller you've built.

Jordan

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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Tue May 14, 2013 12:38 pm

[quote="StewartD...
" Bob,
Thanks for the trouble you have gone to. "

____ That's okay, I wouldn't have bothered if I didn't feel the need to better educate everyone with what's actually what, concerning related electrical info.



" Here is the set up on my current Mach 1 project. "

____ Your displayed circuit-diagram is either lacking left-out relevant details, or-else it's incorrect ! ...
Have you at-least ungrounded the alt.stator's 'common-ground' -(often misidentified as a 'center-tap') ? _ Cuz otherwise your bridge circuit-system will short-circuit HALF of the power that the (stock) alternator produces. _ I suspect this likely-hood because your diagram states that your alternator is a "STANDARD" '60-watt' model, but yet your diagram indicates a bridge-rectifier hooked-up to it's alt.wire-leads as-if it's TWO separate stator-windings are merely just a single stator-winding !
__ So what's-up with that actually ? _ Do you have the two alt.stator-windings connected-together in series, with their stock 'common' / ground-connection, now UNgrounded ?
Cuz otherwise,, ya can't leave their common-lead grounded AND-ALSO ground the neg.output of your bridge-rectifier as-well, (as your diagram [rather unclearly] indicates) ! ...
Assuming that your 60w.alternator's ground-circuit is still remaining as stock,, then as you have your bridge-rectifier connected-up, it will only charge the battery with JUST the POSITIVE-pulses of the alternator's AC.cycles ! _ Cuz all the negative-pulses would much rather-instead short-circuit back-to ground (at the alt.stator's common-ground) than try to take the more-resistive route through the battery & load-system !


" It has been running, but not for many miles yet. "

____ That's probably a good-thing, if you haven't first checked-over & measured YOUR charging-system's actual output.
Cuz if you've left the alt.stator's common-circuit grounded, then you run the risk of overheating the pair of ground-side diodes within your bridge-rectifier, as well as both alt.stator-windings !
__ If you don't happen to know whether the alt.stator connections are still-remaining stock, or properly modified,, you should check whether-or-not your charging-system's power-output significantly changes, when you disconnect your bridge-rectifier's neg.connection to ground.



" From memory my 450 was the same setup. I definitely used a Lucas zener diode and the bridge rectifier from the electronic hobbyist's shop. "

____ Your particular wiring-setup would've worked well enough with the w-c.type 70w.3wire-lead alternator because IT's arrangement does-NOT have it's common-lead internally-grounded (like a stock '60-watt' alt.model does !).
__ So-then did your circuit-arrangement (on your 450) ignore the alternator's (red colored) 'common' wire-lead ?



" I remember the standard fuses on the 450 probably contributed to high losses. The brass fuse holders were very flimsy "

____ Indeed so, since those stock-type holders didn't grasp their fuse tightly enough, which thus allowed a voltage-drop across their connection-points (and then become heated-up) !



" I am a bit lost when you and Jordan are discussing the revs at which charging starts; "

____ Well even-though the alternators are claimed to be 60 or 70 watts, that's merely-just a 'rating' for what ought to be expected on-average over normally-expected riding-RPMs. _ As the alternator actually produces very-much LESS wattage-power at kick-starting RPMs, and-also considerably more (than the rating) near red-line RPMs.
So-then, it stands to reason that there would have to be SOME particular alternator-revving point at which the charging-system is on the verge/very-edge of producing enough power to be able to provide any charging-current through the battery, or barely not-quite enough.
(Similarly, it's fairly like trying to charge a 12v.battery with a 6v.battery-charger... no charging would take-place until the battery's voltage dropped below 6-volts.)
__ Please let me know if this explanation didn't quite hit-the-mark for you,, and if so, then ask another question (with different wording).


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby StewartD » Wed May 15, 2013 5:06 am

Mach 1 alternator.jpg
Bob, Jordan,

Thanks again for your trouble. I follow most of what has been said. The internal earth of the stock 60 W Mach 1 alternator is still earthed. I have attached a copy of Clymer manual figure 27, for any one following this, who may not have it.

I confirm that there are only two wires exiting the crankcases, and these are the two wires that I have connected to my rectifier.

[/quote]can't leave their common-lead grounded AND-ALSO ground the neg.output of your bridge-rectifier as-well,[/quote]

Is there a way to get round this problem and still leave the alternator stock, i.e. with its common earth still connected and the rectifier wired differently? This would be preferable to me.

DewCatTea-Bob wrote: Your particular wiring-setup would've worked well enough with the w-c.type 70w.3wire-lead alternator because IT's arrangement does-NOT have it's common-lead internally-grounded (like a stock '60-watt' alt.model does !).
__ So-then did your circuit-arrangement (on your 450) ignore the alternator's (red colored) 'common' wire-lead ?


It was 1979 when I did the 450 Conversion to 12 volts. I am fairly sure there were only two alternator wires exiting the crankcase though. My 450 was a disc brake model with electronic ignition. I do remember it idled better and started easier, with 12 volt points/coil ignition, than with the standard electronic ignition.

Cheers,

Stewart D
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DewCatTea-Bob
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Rectification-circuits with Alt.stator-windings left Grounde

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Wed May 15, 2013 6:38 am

[quote=StewartD ...
" The internal earth of the stock 60 W Mach 1 alternator is still earthed. "

____ Then if your wiring-scheme is indeed wired-up just as is indicated in your posted-diagram, then running the alternator was allowing all it's rectified negative power-pulses to merely see just the associated pair of diodes themselves as the ONLY load for that part of your charging-circuit,, which is not a good-thing !



" Is there a way to get round this problem and still leave the alternator stock, i.e. with its common earth still connected and the rectifier wired differently? "

____ YES indeed ! _ You could simply UNground the wire-lead which you have connected to your bridge-rectifier's negative-post !
That way, the alternator will then work as Ducati had designed it to. _ And their 'dual half-wave' rectification-setup (which you WILL thus have), is the only way to obtain the MAXIMUM-power which can possibly be produced from Ducati's rather uniquely wound alt.stator (with it's expected mutual-induction effect) !
__ (Now having stated that grand claim, I suspect that there'll be those with mere basic-conception of such-things, who'll argue with me that rather 'full-wave' rectification would obtain double the power,, and then I'll next have to explain why that's NOT exactly true. _ So I really hope that somebody [who's willing to learn] will question this, as I'd like at-least someone-else of us [other than just myself] to fully comprehend whats all what with the Ducati-alternators !)
__ However,, if you find the need, you could possibly harness the normally unused negative power-pulses to run some-other load, (such as just the ign.system alone), if so desired.



" when I did the 450 Conversion to 12 volts. I am fairly sure there were only two alternator wires exiting the crankcase though. My 450 was a disc brake model with electronic ignition. "

____ I'm unfamiliar with such as that, and-so must assume that your 450 didn't employ the regular '70w' w-c.type alt.model.


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

ducwiz
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Re: Another Thead for Discussing Conversion from 6 to 12 Vol

Postby ducwiz » Wed May 15, 2013 6:52 am

From Berliner Co. manual:
Image
Well, you uploadad a schematic from MachI/Sebring norrow case models. The stator here has in fact the grounded center, and only 2 wires coming from the case. The wide case models have (at least) 3 wires, the center not grounded, and the wire coloured in red; the remaining 2 wires are both yellow. See the uploaded schematics from the Haynes manual for reference.
http://minus.com/lxtr3FFDKLjnk
http://minus.com/lUmcXzsAffx1g
Possibly your memory doesn't serve you well, you made a similar conversion compared to mine, with a bridge rectifier and a power zener, leaving the red wire unconnected?

Hans


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