Recharging 250 MK1/MK3 Magneto

[Desmoto-M.3]

How very interesting Bob!

I have also had people try to tell me things about my lights, while city riding! Things like:
you must have a 12volt bulb in a 6volt system;
your battery needs to be charged up;
your headlight needs to be grounded right;
your lightbulb must be just about burned out;
and even, "GO BUY A HONDA!".

Those people don't have a clue of course! But stuff like that does weigh on the back of my mind enough to keep me concerned about getting back home before dark.
So i am always pretty interested in any means of keeping my headlight from looking so dim, as it always gets at low revs!
Above 4grand, it's just fine though!

Could you please tell more about how you added another lightbulb to your headlight?
That method of using a second bulb which runs off the battery, sounds like a really neat idea to me! So if i can, i will do that modification too.

Thanks,
Ken

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ I've heard that ' "GO BUY A Honda" ' , more than once myself. _ I say shiptruck those people!


" Could you please tell more about how you added another lightbulb to your headlight? "

____ My story on this starts-out back when I once thought it would help if I cleaned-up the dullness off the lens & reflector-dish. _ I used a SOS-pad on both sides of the glass-lens and then on the shiny-side of the reflector... BIG-mistake!
After I rinsed-off the reflector-dish, instead of seeing it be all nicely shined-up as hoped, it instead had much of it's shiny-surface scratched-off & gone, and looking more like it's brass-color on it's back-side! _ So I (later) replaced that ruined reflector-unit with a brand-new unit.
The new reflector's shinier dish didn't seem to help my dim-running light's brightness notably at all, so I decided to try & see if it was possible to somehow modify the old reflector to accept a 2nd light-bulb, by making a 2nd hole in it so that I could place a bulb through it, (which would then be powered by the added battery).
__ I remember taking an interior-dome light-bulb from an old Lincoln Continental (which I recall employed a very large 6-volt battery located in the floor near the driver's seat). - (Any of you other old-timers remember such a set-up?)
Anyhow, I soldered a pair of wires to that bulb - one to ground, and the other connected to a common 'universal' brake-light switch -(which was directly connected to the added battery).
That headlamp-modification turned-out to be more useful than I had expected! _ But vibration turned-out to be a bit of a problem for it, as the bulb was not too easy to keep put in it's place (due to poor choice of adhesive-sealer).
So I then swapped the new reflector-unit which I had ordered, with another used unit in another Scrambler which I also then had, (cuz I sure didn't wish to make any kind of hole in the new reflector!), and then modified the 2nd used reflector-dish to accept a tail-light bulb-holder - (from a wrecked '67 Rambler I think).
Then I wired-up the bulb-holder, so that the 3-CP filament (of the chosen taillight-bulb), would light-up with the flip of an added toggle-switch -(placed in the top-side of the headlamp-shell),, and, so that the added bulb's 21-CP filament would light-up only when the brake-light switch turned it on.
That neat modification prooved to be a very quite usefull set-up indeed, (especially for these models which were not originally stock with the added battery)! _ So I completed the same modification on a couple of narrow-case Mark-3s & 5 n-c Scramblers which I once owned. - (Has anybody ever seen any of them [in the Ohio / Michigan part of the country] ? )
__ These days, ya can get much more power-efficient led-type bulbs for the job too!
If you do decide to go-through with any similar set-up for your headlamp, then let us know what parts you find for this headlight-modification job.


Mod-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[Desmoto-M.3]

Thanks Bob!

I still have some questions though. How did you make your evtra hole in the reflector, and how large was it and where exactly - what area of the dish did you make the hole through??

Aside from keeping your headlight looking brighter even at low revs, what was it which made your modification more usefull than expected?
Could'nt you have chosen to have your added toggle switch work the brighter 21watt light instead of the 3watt filliment?

I have heard about the new expensive 12 volt LED lights which have become available for cars and motorcycles.
Can you reccomend a best choice for this headlamp modification?

Thanks again!
Ken

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" How did you make your evtra hole in the reflector, and how large was it and where exactly - what area of the dish did you make the hole through?? "

____ I started my original hole with a 1/8th" drill-bit and then enlarged it with a counter-sink, grinding it out until about 5/8ths of an inch wide, so that the dome-lightbulb's base would fit tightly through it. _ (Unfortunately back at that time, good sealers like GE's clear Silicone Seal was not available, for keeping it better held in place.)
For the auto tail-light bulb-holder -(which had multiple finger-tabs for getting a secure grip once forced completely through the hole made for it), I had to further enlarge the hole to somewhere between 1 & 1/8th to 1 & 3/8ths of an inch wide.
I did this particular mod for about 7 DUKEs, and tried it both with the hole placed either directly above (at first) and (later) directly below the original center-located bulb. _ Not too closely though! - It has to be spaced far enough so that the two bulb-globes won't end-up contacting each other.


" what was it which made your modification more usefull than expected? "

____ Several times while riding in the city near dark or on unsunny days, while approaching intersections,, there would be on-coming vehicals who were about to make a left-hand turn right in front of me, thus causing me to hit my brakes... that in turn made my special head-light come-on and then cause the turning driver to panic-stop for me! _ (And so then I was able to continue on my way, going around the front-end of them.)
__ (This makes me recall the one time when a left-turning driver didn't stop for me and I was sent flying through the air, and the 1966SCR which I had just bought [for 300-bucks] & was heading on the way home with, got totaled!! _&_ The car-driver called a wrecker-truck to come & lift his car up off of my DUKE, so that he could continue-on to his job. _ [ I still remember quite well, laying on the ground while watching this dumbass trying to keep driving his car with my new DUKE dragging underneath the front of the car! ]
And the wrecker-service imponded my DUKE and [in order to get back what was left of my new-purchase], made me be the one to pay for the service which that idiot driver had requested!!!
That's my most bitter & worst cycle-memory ever! _ Sorry for this bad side-track.)
__ Another use that made my headlamp-modification quite useful, was that I would often go home between 1 & 4AM, (and so as to not have my exhaust-note disturb anyone near my home), I would always work-up a little added speed about 1/4th-mile from home (with pet-cock already turned-off about 1/2-mile sooner), and then with my engine run-out of fuel, I'd cost all the rest of the way, right into my garage,, and having that added (battery-powered) head-light, was very quite convenient indeed!!


" Could'nt you have chosen to have your added toggle switch work the brighter 21watt light instead of the 3watt filliment? "

____ Of course but, I never tried it cuz I was concerned about whether the battery would be able to stay well-charged with that much wattage being constantly drained from it. _ (As that was back in the days before I started modifying the alternator-stators for more battery-charging-juice.)
__ My rectifier-modification set-up was tested good enough to run up to three 3-watt filaments constantly and still keep the battery charged-up. _ But I never fully experimented much with more constant wattage-drain than that, (with just only tapping into the alternator's ign.power-coil's power-juice).


" I have heard about the new expensive 12 volt LED lights which have become available for cars and motorcycles.
Can you reccomend a best choice for this headlamp modification? "

____ Back before the '80s, the choice for light-bulbs to pick from was much more limited! - (So it wasn't so hard to make a choice.) _ But these days, especially with the newer LED-types, I have no idea what the "best"-choice would be!
I do highly recommend that you choose the LED-type however, cuz with those, your 'break-even'-RPM will be much lowered! _ And they do make 6-volt versions too!
__ I suggest that everyone of us who are interested in any LED-bulbs
for use in any of our DUKEs -(I say "DUKEs" because I, for one, believe that our DUCATIs are not just "bikes", [I personally don't much like it when anyone calls their DUCATI a "bike" !] ),
search the web.net & post any good LED-lights which ya have found, that may be particularly useful to any of us.


DUKE-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[Desmoto-M.3]

Thanks for all your answers again Bob!
Sorry I've taken so long to get back on this but, been on vacation!

I sure hope nothing like what happen to you and your duke ever happens to me! I would really be sick to have any kind of major damage happen to my Mark 3!
Not only will i add an extra lightbulb to my headlamp, i will also become super extra careful whenever i see other drivers near intersections who look as if they may try for a left turn in front of me!

Whenever i don't happen to forget, i also turn off the gastank about a half mile before i know I'm going to park my Mark 3. And if i misjudge a little, i only have to coast a short ways, but never tried to make it all the way to my spot in the garage durring the dark of night. So it will be extra nice to have a battery powered headlight on my Mark 3!
My Dad trained me to turn off the gas ahead of time, when i first learned to ride. So i had always assumed it was just a normal part of motorcycling.

If i understand everything correctly, you've indicated that your method of using a rectifier to tap unused power made by the alternator for the ignition circuit, could be used to keep a battery charged while also running up to 3 taillight type bulb filliments.
If that is correct, exactly where were those 3 lights located?

I haven't spent much time searching for 6 volt lightbulbs to fit into my headlight reflector but, i did find these two possible canidates on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

Please check their links and let me know your opinion on them for your reccomended headlamp modification.

Thanks again,
Ken

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I sure hope nothing like what happen to you and your duke ever happens to me!
i will also become super extra careful whenever i see other drivers near intersections who look as if they may try for a left turn in front of me! "

____ I guess I didn't point-out that it wasn't at an intersection! ... I had already well realized on my way home that I was riding a DUKE that didn't have a brake-light in it's headlamp, AND to be extra very careful at intersections with traffic. _ However in this instance, I was heading-down a 4-lane city-street and nowhere near any intersection! _ There was an oncoming car -(a big New Yorker) seemingly stopped ahead, looking as if waiting for me to pass-by before making a left-turn into a Dunkin Donuts lot... So I sped-up just a little, allowing the DUKE's exhaust-note to warn the waiting driver that I was hurrying to get on by him, and also then begain moving from the left-lane to the right (to give him added clearance) ! _ Then just when it was too late to react, he suddenly begain his turn RIGHT INTO ME ! (As if on-purpose, [I couldn't believe the driver was really going to keep-on going through with the turn, right into my path!].) _ And then my new used DUKE instantly came to a dead-stop & somehow got locked-up onto the center-front of the car !
I heard him turn-off his radio, right after my DUKE came unstuck from and started going under the front of the car, as the old-man continued to try to drive his car into the DD-parking-lot.
Ya just can't trust other drivers! _ Claimed he never saw me!
__ So anyhow, an extra light in the headlamp wouldn't have helped in THAT case.


" exactly where were those 3 lights located? "

____ I wired-up (only) one Mark-3 project so that an added toggle-switch (in the headlamp-shell) could allow it's (added) 6-volt battery to run the normal tail-light plus a pair of regular 6-volt tail-light bulbs which were added to the headlamp... 1-bulb above & 1-bulb below the original center-located alt.powered (main) headlight-bulb. - (The original Mark-3 25/25-watt bulb, replaced with a 30/30-watt 6-volt bulb,, since the 4.5-watt std.tail-light filement was no longer a load on the stock lighting-circuit !)
And with that added light-switch turned-on, the battery could still stay charged even while running the three 4.5-watt lights. - (These old-type lights are plenty good for BEING SEEN [by others] but, NOT good enough [on their own] for seeing the road well at night,, but along with the stock head-light, provide a fair amount of head-lighting.)
__ Also, I also wired-up all three of those bulbs so that when-ever the (replaced) brake-switch was activated, all three of their 18-watt filements would then light-up!
I highly recommend this set-up for all narrow-case Mark-3 models that are to be used on today's streets!


" let me know your opinion on them for your reccomended headlamp modification. "

____ The first/top link is to a bulb that would likely only be somewhat suitable for the other headlamp-models which are set up with a hole in their reflector for a 'parking-light'.
That bulb would not be a good choice for the modification which I've suggested however, cuz unlike the old-type (glowing-filement) bulbs which I used for the job, this led-type's light-output is not OMNI-directional, and therefore it's light would not be also reflected by the headlamp's reflector.
____ The second/bottom link is to what seems to be a bulb/with/reflector-unit which just might be suitable, if mounted in the upper-position (which I've suggested previously). _ However, I really can't tell you how to keep it located within a modified reflector,, that's something you'd have to work-out for yourself. _ It doesn't look as if it would be too difficult to come-up with some way to do so, however.
__ While checking it's link, I noticed an even better version of it ! ... (Link follows.)

http://cgi.ebay.com/900-Lumens-CREE-MC- ... 3358253187

This one is 3 times brighter and also has a strobe-mode which is great for daylight city-traffic ! _ However since it's for only 4-volts, you'd have to wire 3 or 4 diodes all in series with it, to safely run it with a 6-volt battery.
Kind of expensive too! _ Ya should be able to find a 6-volt version for that kind of money !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[vintbikeparts]

Hello, this is my first time on here and is not so much a reply but a follow up question on an earlier part of this thread.
I'm almost done restoring a MK3 narrow case from parts but the elec system has been giving me fits, mainly due to
previous mix and match issues and modified stator wiring compounded by my poor comprehension of the AC system.
This thread has clarified many things but my question is with regard to rotor timing and " logical replacement timing mark" . Can some one clarify this for me? I assume it involves marking the outside in relation to the position of the magnets. is this then installed relative to the mainshaft keyway or do I need to degree it in exactly? where do you mount a degree wheel when working on the rotor side? Also what resistance measurements are appropiate for the stator coils and ignition coil?
Lots of questions but I'm hoping someone can clarify.
Jerry

[DewCatTea-Bob]

UPDATE NOTICE: This post has now been EDITED AGAIN!! - (So it now contains even better wording as well as even more added info which had been left-out previously !!)

NOTE... This post now UPDATED! - See info-addition down below......


" This thread has clarified many things but my question is with regard to rotor timing and "logical replacement timing mark" . Can some one clarify this for me?
I assume it involves marking the outside in relation to the position of the magnets. is this then installed relative to the mainshaft keyway or do I need to degree it in exactly? "

____ Well Jerry, I've been waiting for 'velotwin' -(the creator of this thread) or somebody to ask about this important issue for addressing ignition problems like he's concerned about! _ As I'm still left to believe that he either installed his rotor without regard to it's proper phase-timing or else used incorrect timing-data, taken from a workshop-manual.
__ I really wish that there were somebody besides myself who could answer your questions on this matter, as it's a bit technical to just answer off the top of my head, (and whenever I do such, I then later have to edit what I've written, to make better sense). _ And because I automatically get logged-off whenever I take over an hour to complete a post, I must type it up off-line and post later. _ So that's what I'll begin to do as soon as I can get to it.
So stay-tuned for an expanded responce from me, to this post, here later.


" where do you mount a degree wheel when working on the rotor side? "

____ Ya need to use a spacer -(like a very small con.rod/piston-pin) & a couple fender-washers along with a long threaded 8mm-bolt -(1.25mm thread) and two nuts, in order to best connect your degree-wheel to the tip-end of the crankshaft. _ Once you have everything ready, then please ask for further instructions to set-up your degree-wheel.


" Also what resistance measurements are appropiate for the stator coils and ignition coil? "

____ Please tell me about your "modified stator wiring" .
The alternator's ign.power-coil should measure about .7 ohms, and it's lighting power-coil should be a little less (but not under .4 ohms!).
__ I don't recall any ign.coil readings. _ Hopefully somebody will post the ohm-reading for the 'GREEN' ign.coil, (and the RED-coil as well).


Tillater,
-Bob

IMPORTANT-NOTICE - Anyone who has a DUKE-model which does not employ a working AUTO-advancer, should reread this (down-below),, as I've now corrected a mistake which had previously been left in.

NOTE follow-up: It's now 'later' and I'm finally back with the expanded-info (concerning the phase-timing of the 4-pole alt.rotors of n-c Mark-3 type alternators), which I had mentioned within this posting, that I'd later add (to this post) here.....


_____ This alt.stator has four poles and it's rotor also has four poles...
___ On the stator there are two separate coil-windings, each wrapped around it's own magnetic-steel core. - (Those cores are made of several layers instead of one solid piece, so as to reduce stray eddy-flows of electrons which may create magnetic fields that are not coherent with that which is desirable).
As is obvious, the two ends (of each of the two cores) are convex-curved so as to closely clear their concave counter-parts within the rotor ! _ These curve-cut protrusions -(from the coil-windings), of the stator-cores are the 'poles' of the stator,, and of course the center of the core-protrusion, is the center of the pole!
__ In the rotor there are four magnets arranged so that the rotor's four concave-curved magnetic-steel poles are magnetically-charged (by both magnets on either side of each), with either North or South polarity. _ The center of these concave rotor poles is the point where maximum magnetic-flux is most concentrated, (thus the pole's equivalent of a 'peak'). ...
__ So when the rotor's four pole-centers become directly aligned with the stator's four pole-centers, that then is the point at which maximum/peak-inductance of electromotive-force occurs. _ And thus the alternator then produces the 'peak' of it's power-pulse !
____ If the rotor was transparent, then it would be easy to check the alignment of all the pole-centers, without the need of any related reference-mark placed on the front-face of the rotor ! _ From the inside-back of the rotor, it's quite simple to determine where the centers of it's four poles are located and to place a centerline-mark (from the center of any of the four poles to the center of the pole that's 180-degrees across the rotor), on the in-side surface of the rotor !
Drilling two small holes on that added center-line from the in-side through to the outside-face of the rotor, would certainly provide perfectly placed reference-marks to be easily seen on the front-face of the rotor, so that a corresponding centerline-mark could then be placed outside where it could then be of some use ! _ But of course ya really wouldn't care to do THAT.
__ So how do ya suppose they figured-out at the factory their method for deciding exactly where to stamp some kind of a timing-mark which had some logical reason for being located where-ever it was to be, on the rotor's face? ... That's always been a mystery to me, as the question wouldn't really need to be asked, if ALL 4-pole rotor timing-marks had been consistantly located in the exact same spot on the rotor-face ! ... But I've noticed that the timing-marks placed on most 4-pole rotors are NOT found in the exact same location, in relation to the position of the rotor's magnetic-poles ! _ And when I have found any rotors which all happened to have their timing-marks placed in an identical location, THAT location, (other than those which had been placed at the zero-degree spot), wasn't really a LOGICAL place for any 'TIMING-MARK' (which could be easily aligned with some existing point or thing) !
Therefore I find much reason to doubt that there was always some logical reason for the locations where Ducati placed their rotor timing-marks. _ And in any case, these days ya really can't blindly trust that your duke actually still has it's factory-original rotor,, even if it's timing-mark was 'spot-on', and EVERY workshop-manual included ALL the FACTUAL degree-figure settings, so ya could then be sure you'd be able to correctly set YOUR exact model !!
____ Anyhow, if the rotor were to be pressed-onto the crankshaft with all the pole-centers exactly aligned - (which we shall refer to as 'Top-Peak-Power'), while the crankshaft is at Top-Dead-Center, (as would seemingly be a logical concept to do), THEN the alternator would of course produce the peak of it's power-pulses at every TDC (as well as every 90-degree arc-turn from TDC) ! _ And that would be just fine&dandy IF the ign.spark also always occurred at TDC ! _ But we know that's not the actual case... Because with most of these n-c Mk3 & SCR models (which use this type of 4-pole rotor), their (static) ign.spark is to occur at about 22-degrees before TDC (and advances from there to 39 to 41 degrees BTDC).
So therefore, from that seemingly logical point -(TopPeakPower aligned with TDC), the rotor must then be advanced (about) the same 22-degrees, by rotating the alt.rotor counter-clockwise 1/16th-turn (while the crankshaft remains at TDC) !
___ With the use of a 'right-angle' or a 'T-square', ya could guide a slight etch-line (to be placed across the outer circumference of the rotor), that's exactly aligned with any of the rotor's four pole-centers. - (I'd make such an aligned etch-line at all four such points.)
__ Next, (for most of us who don't have a degree-wheel that's a bit smaller than the rotor's diameter), ya can use a length of tape that's NON-stretchable -(like the clear nylon-reinforced type, [NOT masking-tape!] ), by tightly rolling it one complete turn around the rotor's outer-circumference, starting & ending at your chosen etch-line. _ After the length of tape has been cut to the exact circumference of the rotor, then pull it off and fold it exactly in half and cut it right on the half-way point... This will then provide two pieces/lengths which are each equal to 180-degrees of the rotor's 360-degree circumference! _ Then repeat that process (with either piece) to get a 90-degree piece,, then again for a 45-degree piece, and then finally one more time to get a 22.5-degree piece. _ (If done correctly, all half-pair pieces of tape should be exactly the same length!)
You'll need one 45-degree piece & one 22.5-degree piece.
__ Now with the rotor held like a clock-face that's faced toward you, and with your etch-line at the 12-O'clock position,, then place the cut-edge of your 45-degree piece evenly with your etch-line -(that's been made on the rotor's outer-circumference & aligned with one of the 4 pole-centers), and spread it over the rotor (like it was when ya made the 360-degree piece).
At the other end of this 45-degree piece, another (new) etch-line could be made which would then stand for Top-Peak-Power, (referred to as 'TPP', as I can't think of any official-name for it).
No matter which side of your etch-line -(which indicates a pole-center), your 45-degree piece is placed on, the TPP-line should be located exactly evenly spaced from the nearest two pole-centers of the rotor !
Now at that TPP-line/point, you place the cut-edge of your 22.5-degree piece of tape and spread it towards the 1-O'clock position,, and at it's other cut-edge (exactly at 12:45), you have now found one of four location-points on the rotor that should be aligned with the crankshaft's TopDeadCenter-line ! ...
You could extend a line from that point to the front-center of the rotor, so as to LOGICALLY locate a real 'TIMING-MARK' on the rotor's face, which could then easily be directly-aligned above the center of the notch on the tip of the crankshaft, or the drive-gear's key-way slot, (either of which should indicate crankshaft-TopDeadCenter). _ So therefore the created timing-mark would be as easy as possible to use, to help see that the rotor is properly phased with the crankshaft while pressing the rotor onto the crankshaft, (with or without the engine kept at Top-Dead-Center) !
____Somebody who quite well understands that the rotor must be properly phase-timed to the crankshaft so that the alternator then produces close to it's maximum-power during the time when the ign.spark is to be produced, may reason that since the ign.spark (of the duke-models in question here), occurs anywhere between 21 & 41 degrees BTDC,, that it would make sense to phase-time the rotor (onto the cramkshaft) so that the alternator would then offer it's peak-power right-in-the-middle -(at 31-degrees BTDC), of those ign.timing limits... Well doing that would no-doubt still work but, the reason for setting it near 22-degrees BTDC, is to make sure that the ign.coil get's as much power-juice as possible while at KickStarting-RPM, (as nobody really wants to have to kick-over the engine any harder than they really have to, in order to get the best spark for their effort).
And besides, as the engine's RPMs increase, so does the power-output of the alternator ! _ So that tends to cancel the loss which the advancer causes (when it makes the spark occur at a time when the power-pulse has not yet peaked) !
__ However for the older models which do not employ any auto-advancer, the phasing-job of the rotor can simply skip all the steps envolving the pieces of tape! _ As any etch-line that's been aligned with a pole-center (of the rotor's four of such), has located a place for a timing-mark that's close enough for those particular models, (as the 4 to 6 degree difference between THAT static-timing setting and THIS simple peak-alignment setting, is not significant). _ Perfectionists can use a small degree-wheel to see about making a more accurately located timing-mark, which should then be 4 to 6-degrees advanced just ahead of any of the four possible etch-line spots, (thus retarding the rotor just a small bit [compared to simply using an existing etch-line as your timing-mark] ).
However, I hope that those of you who choose to retain the stock no-auto.advancer set-up, either expect to most always get started-up by using the push-start technique, or else have your nees & ankles as tuff as humanly possible !
But if you are concerned about keeping all your involved body-parts from harm, then consider reading my post about installing a 28-degree auto.advancer-unit, (as I've suggested earlier within this same thread).

____ Sorry for taking so long to get to this long explanation but, I really didn't want to post any such info without being reasonably sure that it's all without mistakes, and also makes fairly-good sense which leaves little room for misinterpretation as well.
Please ask questions about anything which I have failed to make perfectly clear !


DUKE-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[vintbikeparts]

Looking forward to more info.
In answer to your questionthe stator had been converted to 2 wire by grounding one side of ignition/brake light coil to the stator carrier plate. I've also got a similar stator which has 3 wires , two from the upper, one from the lower coil but also has a wire linking the forward (in reference to bike) ends of the coils.
Jerry

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" stator had been converted to 2 wire by grounding one side of ignition/brake light coil to the stator carrier plate. "

____ Okay, please correct me if I have misunderstood anything.....
__ You have what you KNOW is an original n-c Mk3-stator which (for some reason) had one of it's two wire-leads of the ign.power-coil, removed, (while the lighting power-coil's single wire-lead was left connected, as like stock).
Can you tell me what the reasoning was for having bothered to remove the 3rd wire-lead ?


" I've also got a similar stator which has 3 wires , two from the upper, one from the lower coil but also has a wire linking the forward (in reference to bike) ends of the coils. "

____ I don't know of any stock DUKE-stator which is wired as you indicate. _ Has it also been modified?
I suspect that it's a '28-watt' stator modified for 12-volt charging...
To determine what it's capable of, we need to know about all it's ohm-meter readings between each pairing of it's wires, plus also each wire to stator/ground. - (If I'm right, there should be no circuits to ground.)

____ What are your goal-hopes for an electrical-system for your Mark-3 ?


More Later,
-Bob