Replacing the Stock n-c Alt.Cable with a Desktop PC-Cord
by DewCatTea-Bob » Tue Jul 20, 2010 9:17 pm
____ While for myself I'd prefer to make my own conduit-cable with the wire-colors I prefer, I can understand how this novel-idea (of Jim's) would be easier, cheaper & quicker to go with. _ However I have the following thoughts...
Since your DUKE-project (which you need the cord from a computer for), is going to be more valuable than your newest computer is going to be worth,, then rather than choosing to make use an "old" (thus pre-aged) cord of the like for your DUKE-project, instead choose to use the cord from your newest computer -(and let it be the thing which makes further use of an OLD cord, instead) ! _ (Assuming of course that your newest-cord is at least of the same quality as the older-cord.)
__ I also very much recommend that everyone who adapts a computer-cord for replacing the stock twin-conductor/lead alt.cable, choose to use the GREEN-wire (in the computer power-cord) for connection to the (otherwise) grounded lead-ends of the two power-windings (on the alt.stator) ! - (As that's simply the most logical way to go, since 'green' is used for 'ground' in the stock-system!)
That way, more options can be chosen for wiring a new power/charging-system ! _ Such as, simply converting to use the stock electronic-box of either the wide-case or bevel-twin models (for example) !
DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE: If my above post is not concluded with "DCT-Bob" at bottom, then I likely expect to finish/edit this post at a later time.
DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 1117
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
That being said, I think I have abandoned that Idea mainly because A: I dont actually know if the "spare" w/c box I have is any good B: As I plan on restoring the 350 Desmo Mark III in the near future, and my brother will by then be riding the 450 Scr, It may be wise to keep that "spare" as such...a spare, for either of those Dukes. and C: I want to hear more about the 4 wire system using the bridge recs, and a 4 conductor cable leading from the stator. But even if that system is not for me in the long run, I am sure that I will use at least a 3 conductor cable, so as to leave myself more options down the road...
____ Which suggested n-c charging-system are you referring to exactly ? - (The one which makes use of the otherwise ignored negative half-cycles ?)
I am having trouble finding it again on here, I think its in the 6 or 12 volt thread, but that thread is like its own website now...
not to make it sound like a bad thing... I would much rather have "too much" info and sift through it for what I need (like sifting through sand for gold...) rather than have vague bits and pieces of info. I just spent almost an hour looking and can not find it. All I can do is describe it.
60w n/c alternator, grounded leads unsoldered/isolated
one yellow lead to one a/c input of #1 rec (200piv 25amp)
then a jumper from one a/c input of the first rec to the other a/c input of the same rec.
the ground of that rec. to frame/eng. ground
the positive routed to battery positive (indirectly through a toggle switch)
the other yellow lead routed to another separate bridge/rec. (same rating)
and hooked up the same with the exception of the positive (pdc) output going to supply power to the loads, lights, ign, etc...
This is the system I was refering to, I will find it eventually in the correct thread... I was already set on using this system before I even posted my first question to you (on the n/c 250 im building, not on the w/c 450 scr, or the 350 mk III desmo of course) The only thing I didnt get with this system was A: what makes it a "6v" or "12v" system ? Nothing ? can it be either (of course noting that the battery will be different, and the rpm which the battery charges at may be different ?)
Also I cant find (yet anyway) where you have described the 4 wire system, or a "3 wire system" other than when mentioning what I quoted above from a different post. If you do run 3 conductor wire and DO NOT use a w/c reg. or any reg for that matter, and you do not "reground" the paired/isolated "re-located" grounds outside of the engine, then what do you do with them ? run them through a 3rd bridge/ rec ? and assuming thats correct, would you just go ahead and run 4 conductor cable, and run 4 bridge recs ? or would u then still only use 2 bridge recs, but actually use them as "bridges" and NOT jumper the a/c leads as described before in what I believe you refered to as the "simple system" And instead run one yellow lead to each (a/c input) and one "red" to each a/c input (or whatever color you happen to be running from the aforementioned grounds that have been unsoldered, seperated, connected to there own conductor of a 4 conductor cable, and then run out of the engine case. Sorry for all the questions, and maybe you have covered this before ? I did do my best trying to find it and I could not.
I know I have that "simple system" schematic somewhere...2 actually... one that you said was the simplest form, with one bridge/rec and no reg. with one yellow lead going to each a/c input terminal (from the alt.)
and then the other which i tried to describe above...
I believe you said you would elaborate on the "4-wire" system if anyone was interested, and as I am, I hope you can help me out with the specifics on that system. NO HURRY or anything though...
one update... There are a few other electronic suppliers here in Cincinnati that do carry components (I made a call to my dad in Fla) and when I called around some of them had what I needed, but honestly I keep strange hours (im on call for work 24/7)
So I just ordered (5) 200piv 25amp bridge/recs from newark electronics, to save me the time of having to go get them. I also looked through my "stash" and I have high temp/chem resistant 14-2 cable, 16-3 cable, 16-4 cable, and 18-3 cable among others. I doubt 14-4 cable will fit through the gland nut (but if need be, i can fab. a new one I have a lathe, and the necessary metric taps and dies to make a new one with whatever hole size I need within reason of course) I also dont know where I can get 14-4 cable... and I am guessing that the 16-4 cable (which i tested, and does fit) will work ok for me ?
On the battery A.H. question, there are so many options, and ironically my brother just replaced his battery this past weekend on his yamaha r5c 350 twin (which i believe is the 12v 5.5 ah battery you where refering too) so I have one here to measure and check fitment. I will worry about the battery later though I guess... there are so many possibilities there...
___ How have you determined that it's the "28w" version ?
No actually I have not, all I do know is it was removed from a early 250 scr, it is either the 28w or 40w though, I am definitely not running it though, because even if it is in good working condition (and it doesnt look like it, its very rough) I have that entire engine still (spare), and I want to keep it all together, to use someday if I find another n/c scr or other n/c duke...
With the final point about lighting/power demand, etc...
I do want to run 12v if possible, b/c I intend to make use of a 12v breakerless ign eventually, which I will build (retaining stock a.a.u, and timing curve respectively) using a dynatek/msd/or petronix pickup unit, and machine a suitable rotor to trigger it. I did this on my brothers old suzuki gs550es, because no one, absolutely NO ONE made a replacement for the factory pickup coils (which are total junk, and fail easily) and the cdi box they use is even worse, and costs $400-500 dollars.
I also would like to run a 12v h4 style bulb, assuming I can get a reflector that will fit my 130mm aprilia headlamp bucket, and will hold that bulb. (which is another question in and of itself) I have a dual plug mach 1 cylinder head and a dual output dynatek coil also, and It would be nice to use those. (although I could get a low primary resistance version of the same dyna coil i have, and run it with 6 volts, thats just more $$ those coils arent cheap)
While picking up parts today, I noticed that my brothers parts store carries 12v 1157 style led tail lamps also, and it would be nice to run one of those, with my tailight I have (which already accepts that style of bulb)
I feel like im rambling now bob, so i will sign off here. I look forward to reading about the "4-wire" system you have hinted to before if you have time to enlighten me on the specifics of it, thank you in advance... Joe