E10 Fuel

[Duccout]

So we are getting E10 ethanol fuel, so that we can save the planet. I wonder how this will affect our bikes? Those who use fibreglass tanks will probably have to switch to aluminium, and rubber fuel lines will have to be changed to ethanol resistant ones, and I don't know how well Amal and Dell'Orto carbs cope with ethanol, it may be necessary to change the floats and needles. It looks like my modern Ducati GT1000 will be a gonna due to its plastic tank; in America they have been dealing with this for years, and the only cure was to shell out $2500 dollars for an aluminium tank, which I don't fancy much!

I think that the days of old vehicles is numbered, whatever happens, because fossil fuels are on the way out, and I can't see the environmental lobby allowing anyone to use an old internal combustion engine for much longer. At my age it will not affect me much, but it is sad to see the demise of the petrol head.

[Bevel bob]

Esso still say they have no plans to add ethanol to their top grade fuel Synergy+. Using this can pose a couple of issues. It tends to run a bit rich. So you set the carb up for that. Then when you buy fuel from another garage you can find you have been conned and the Synergy pump is selling the cheap stuff! to keep profits up. Now the motor will run weak. Best to buy your fuel from a very busy place ,too busy to play those games.

[Jordan]

I had a Norton with a steel tank underneath a plastic fake tank covering it.
On some bikes it might be possible to do something like that.
That is, cut the bottom out of the plastic original tank to use as a cover over a custom metal one, which would not have to be pretty.

[Gianni]

Here in the states, we have been subject to E10 for so long, I don't even remember when it started. For folks with vintage fiberglass fuel tanks, it has been a painful experience. Many people have adapted by coating their tanks with a couple of different preparations, with Caswell's being the most prominent. I believe that alcohol resistant fiberglass is formulated with Novalac resins, which are based on bis-phenol ester polymers. My own policy has been to look high and low for steel tanks where they have been available. A good friend of mine was wheeling out his newly re-painted '73 Sport and noticed a small bubble in the paint. He grabbed a fine sewing needle from his wife's kit to hopefully pierce and collapse the bubble. The needle went right through the tank like it was jelly.

Now they are trying to require E15 for motor vehicle use. Hasn't happened yet, but is likely coming. The boating community is particularly up in arms, water getting in the fuel is their biggest concern.

Modern bikes and cars have no problem with the stuff. Cheap, small gas engine garden tools don't tolerate the mix very well after it has set in the tank for very long. Fortunately, a distributor network has developed with some gasoline retailers to market non-alcohol containing gasoline for sale, at a modest premium. That and steel tanks has been my solution. Good luck if it comes.

[graeme]

In Australia E10 is still about but not so here in Tasmania (or not where I live)
I Use Hersch tank sealer for the two fibreglass tanks I have, RT 450 and TT2 replica.
8 years now and no problems.
But I don’t leave fuel in them if I’m not going to use them for a while.
What ever you do don’t use POR15 in a fibreglass tank.

Graeme

[etsjw]

About 10 years ago my fiberglass tank suffered through the dreaded ethanol woes.
I used Bill Hirsch products to clean and seal the tank after it was completely dried.
I also had to have the outside of the tank refinished/repainted because it had swelled up.
The sealed tank has worked fine since then but about five years ago I stopped using ethanol fuel.
i use a 50/50 mixture of a VP leaded, ethanol free 93 octane fuel (very expensive) and an ethanol
free unleaded fuel (dubbed "rec fuel") that is sold here in the states for use in small engines like lawn mowers.
This mix has worked fine with no carb adjustments needed.

[themoudie]

This fuel might suit some people on this forum. I have no experience of using it! Link: Aspen_fuel_UK

At present I try and drain the fuel tank of any machine that is going to stand idle for more than 60 days. Any fuel left in a steel or moulded plastic tank, including the lawnmower, chainsaw and hedgecutter for longer is treated with Briggs and Stratton 'Fuel Fit'. It is claimed that the addition of 'Fuel Fit' to fuel at a ratio of 1:10 gives fuel stability for up to 3 years. There are a lot of differing prices and I shall leave forum members to make their own decisions upon use and supply. Here is a link to the UK supplier: Briggs-and-Stratton-fuel-fit-Part_No_992381

The Morini's because of their Heron heads get a diet of 'SuperOctane' or its equivelant. Witche's brews of AVGAS are not unheard of, but I shan't go into detail on here.

The problem is that some 'SuperOctane' fuels and 'Octane Boosters' rely on ethanol to boost the octane of the fuel and hence can cause more problems than they enhance performance. When ethanol first came in to general use the Bob Mac classic race meeting at East Fortune took place in early June. Fibreglass tanks were literally deliquescing, as the ethanol disolved the bonding resins. Whole tanks crumpled, or their bottoms fell out, or the fibres became detached from the tank internal mat and blocked the fuel lines and carb filters. This was with AVGAS brews and 'SuperOctane' fuels, plus 'Octane Boosters'.

Of course if you really want to get serious, then leaded and unleaded ethanol-free fuels or even ethanol fuels are available at a price!
Link: Race-Fuel

You makes your choice and pays the dosh!

Good health, Bill