New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

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dsmess
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:49 pm
Location: Washington,USA

New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby dsmess » Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:06 am

Hello,

There is a new alternator (Stator/Rotor) for narrow and wide case from Electrex. It is $280US, or $320 shipped to the states.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/stk-160- ... 354-0.html

The other systems I've seen are Phil's unit at at Road and Race and the Power Dynamo. Both are quite a bit more money.

Scott

Teckhardt
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:25 pm
Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby Teckhardt » Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:37 pm

dsmess wrote:Hello,

There is a new alternator (Stator/Rotor) for narrow and wide case from Electrex. It is $280US, or $320 shipped to the states.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/stk-160- ... 354-0.html

The other systems I've seen are Phil's unit at at Road and Race and the Power Dynamo. Both are quite a bit more money.

Scott


This is just an alternator with higher output and/or convert to 12V?

It does not replace the points like the PowerDynamo.
1970 450 SCR

captpaul
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:17 am

Re: New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby captpaul » Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:12 am

I wouldn't use it on a concourse bike,but for one of my daily drivers,to have 12 volt lites and easier starting, $320 is a cheap cure. You can easily spend more for a new rim and re-lace, than a measly $320. And I love points & condenser !
Here in Florida mk3 and scr dim lites will get you a ticket in a heartbeat. My Sebring just barely gets by.

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Re: New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:05 am

_____ I think the number of threads are going to become somewhat of a problem, so it's kinda too bad that this post about this aftermarket power-system didn't get placed under the same thread which was already started for systems such as this one.
Anyhow, I have the following thoughts on this & other such aftermarket power-supply systems...

____ This one claims "120 watts"... But at what RPM ?
It's not really fair to compare these aftermarket devices against the stock-alternator & other similar aftermarket systems, unless they all state their power-output at some standardized RPM and/or whatever RPM at which it produces it's max.output.
Also, one should really consider just how much power is actually required for their purposes! ...
__ If model 'A-10' is capable of 100-watts at a price of 295.00, and model X-50 is capable of 500-watts for a price of 299.00,, I surely would expect to see 'Joe-6pack' gladly parting with the extra 4.00 & believing that he had easily made the best-deal for himself. _ But has he really?? ...
What's going to happen with all the excess power after all the standard-loads are fully satisfied (well under 100-watts)?
That would depend on the voltage-regulator unit that's employed with such a powerful system...
If the v.r.unit is a very complex type which can somehow repel the unneeded power so as to prevent the excess power from be circuited, then that might be okay,, but if the v.r.unit is the common & cheap shunt-type that's most easy to obtain, then there will be waste & heat issues!
__ Also, I believe one should be wary whenever any manufacturer shows a graph of their product's power-output without also including the stock-item's output on the same graph, for comparison!
We should not be so quick to assume that the stock-alternator is not capable of meeting whatever our needs! ... Whenever it's noted that Ducati-electrics are insufficient, it's just due to how Ducati made use of the available power-juice,, not actually the manor in which the power is produced, (as the aftermarket-producers would have you believe)!
Eldert & I (in other threads) have already let it be known how it's so very easy to convert the common wide-case type alternator's output to run a 12-volt system!
The only reason I can see for purchasing any of the aftermarket systems, is because they are NEW & interesting! _ If I had a choice between one of them or a brand-new stock-type alternator, then I'd choose the stock type if it was of any significant savings!
Until Ducati's 750-twin came-out, I always found the stock battery charging-systems on DUCATIs to be quite sufficient! _ Therefore I recommend that ya try using the stock-alternator to feed your however modified electrical-system, before you consider wasting your money.
__ Don't get me wrong though, I'm-all-for anyone who has the cash to burn and is inclined to give one of the aftermarket systems a try, (I know I would)!
Hopefully anyone of us who's like that, will keep us all informed about their decision making process along the way!

DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

dsmess
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:49 pm
Location: Washington,USA

Re: New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby dsmess » Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:41 am

You know how it is with consumer products...it's hard to get meaningful specs out of the manufacturers...unless the consumers are demanding it. 'm surprised electrex has a chart for their alternator. I think it shows 100W at 2000RPM. Electrex also has a system that is a cheaperPowerDynamo look-alike. It has the self generating ignition with a trigger coil & uses a small box to create the advance. It is on their site somewhere..did not see it just now. I think it is another $100 to $150..then you can get rid of the points.

With this new stuff you can run your multiple tail lights, 90W headlight, electric suit, coffee maker etc....you think?

I would like to see some numbers describing the performance of the 12 converted 6 pole alternator. The easiest test would be to figure 'charge balance' with an ammeter inserted in series with the battery. Perhaps someone has done this

Scott

DewCatTea-Bob
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Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Re: New Electrex 'Generator System' for Singles

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:20 am

" I would like to see some numbers describing the performance of the 12 converted 6 pole alternator. The easiest test would be to figure 'charge balance' with an ammeter inserted in series with the battery. Perhaps someone has done this "

____ As I've mentioned in another (old) thread, I've already tried just about every project I ever conceived, including most all (well reasoned) wiring set-ups that ya could imagine for a DUKE.
All my best rewiring-jobs always included an ammeter! _ As that's the only way to know for sure if a V-regular is actually needed.
And along with the ammeter, (for on the systems which I employed one), I'd also always include a toggle-switch for manually controlling the rate of charge (according to the meter). _ As I preferred being in charge (no pun) of that process rather than leaving it up to a thoughtless voltage-regulator unit!
__ As I recall, a wide-case std.alternator set up for working with a 12-volt battery & std.12V light-bulbs,, would break-even -('0' meter-reading), at about 3500-RPM with lights turned-on, and about 1500-RPM with lights turned-off.
While a modified narrow-case "60-watt" alternator would break-even slightly under 4000-RPM -(lights on) & slightly under 2000-RPM -(lights off),, and a modified 40-watt -(twin yellow-lead type), would zero-out slightly above 4000-RPM -(lights on) & about 2000-RPM -(lights off).
__ If I had had the means to determine the exact RPMs when the 'break-even' RPM-points were obtained, then I'd certainly be happy to provide the EXACT RPM-figures! _ (So for example, where I stated (words like)- "slightly under 2000-RPM", the actual RPM may have really been something like '1875-RPM'.)
Also, the state of the battery's charge can make a difference of a couple-hundred RPM, (with no battery at all in the system, the break-even points are somewhat lower.) _ So I always tried to use a fairly new -(not much more than a couple of months old) battery that had been trickle-charged at least 24-hours & with a 2or3-hour rest just before the comparison test-work. _ And I always used either a 12-volt battery meant for a Honda-305, or SL350, or a Yamaha 250/350-twin. - (In that very-same chronological-order, as I'd discover better & better fitment-choices for use on DUKEs. [Don't bother with the H.305 battery, as it was a bit too long!].)


DUKE-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob


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