Narrow case 250 forks

[Bevel bob]

My forks clank when over bumps, appart from oil changes I've not done anything with these ,are any dampa parts availiable , any modifications to stop topping out.

[JimF]

I have some fork parts and you would be welcome to what you need if I have it.

PM me to discuss it.

Jim

[Bevel bob]

Thanks Jim, the only forks i have been inside were Norton about 20 years ago, I dont know if there are any wearing damper parts in NC forks or even if my forks are assembled properly as the bike was littered with errors when it came to me. I'm also going to do the clutch as a bump start yesterday showed up slippage.A set of Lacey thick plain plates and new friction ones have been on the shelf for too long.Have not been able to find a decent clutch hub/center as yet.

[double diamond]

First make sure your topping springs are installed/installed correctly. You could replace the standard spring with a longer or stiffer topping spring. MW

[Bevel bob]

Topping springs?, that sounds sophisticated! are you sure, the Norton forks had nothing like that.

[JimF]

The forks are pretty simple, but explaining them in text would be difficult.

The parts diagrams are helpful, but some of the components don't need to come apart (in my opinion) making their refurbishment even simpler and understanding them simpler as well.

You could take your forks apart rather easily, comparing the parts to those in the assembly drawings looking for anything to be missing, extra parts, rotation of parts and location of same. Without doing any harm to your situation your fall back would be to simply re-assemble to what you started with.

If everything that's supposed to be there is, you will see how simple the whole thing is. You only need one tool that you can make to dissassemble the forks. There is a horizontal pin that you need to keep from rotating. I used threaded rod and bent it 90 degreees to make a handle, then cut a slot to hold the pin on the other end with a hacksaw.

Drop the slotted end of the tool down into the center of the central column and rotate the tool to catch the pin in the valve stem that's bolted to the fork lower by the allen screw in the bottom. If you use a flashlight and look down into the central column you'll see the pin you're trying to keep from rotating. Once you've captured the pin in the valve you can keep the valve from rotating while you loosen and remove the allen screw in the bottom.


At the very least taking them apart will allow you to clean them up, examine the seals and check your fork tubes for straightness.

[MotoMike]

You are a handy dude Jim. that information is some I had not heard and appreciate as I was intimidated by the looks of the exploded view. thanks