Jupiter Headlamp

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DewCatTea-Bob
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Indicator-lamp's Colored Disk-shields

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:08 am

" No idea what the originals looked like. "

____ Pete's idea is fairly close...
The original colored disk-dots were a bit smaller (than the common parer-punch size), and slightly domed.
I guessing that the plastic folder-covers Pete mentioned are transparent, whereas the stock colored-dots were in red, green, & white opaque-colors.
Depending on the flex-characteristics of the colored-material Pete is referring-to, the particular size he suggests cutting-out to, may possibly bow-up somewhat into a stock-like dome-shape that could then possibly fit up-into the lamp-tube perfectly.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

Teckhardt
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Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: Jupiter Headlamp

Postby Teckhardt » Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:26 pm

I found some paint at the craft store called stained glass paint. It cures at 300 deg so it should hold up on the bulbs. It's also translucent.

I also found that Domiracer carries the correct 6v bulb to fit in the stock holders. If you search on their site for the Ducati part number it will give you the substitution number. :)
1970 450 SCR

Teckhardt
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Re: Jupiter Headlamp

Postby Teckhardt » Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:44 pm

Dang - spent a few hours wiring the headlamp per the diagrams but it would not function like its supposed to. Warning lights came on when they were not supposed to and the headlamp never would come on.

Pulled all the wiring and switches out. Gonna have to chase everything with the multimeter. Looks like the PO may have rewired the headlight switch and/or the plug board. :x

Tested the headlamp bulb off the battery and it immediately smoked up, so I guess there must be a crack or hole in it somewhere. Looks like I will have to buy another sealed beam bulb too. :evil:

Not a good day of wrenchin'
1970 450 SCR

JimF
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Re: Jupiter Headlamp

Postby JimF » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:04 pm

Don't try to change the color of a LED with a tinted lens. The LED only emits light at one wavelength, the wavelength that is the color of the LED.

A light bulb emits light in the entire additive color spectrum which is why it appears white to our eyes. Place a green lens in front of the bulb and it filters out all the other colors except green.

If you put green lens in front of a red LED keep in mind the red (even a "white") LED does not contain light in the green color spectrum so the lens filters out all the LED light.

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

WideCase-headlamp Internal-wiring

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:23 pm

By: Teckhardt...
" spent a few hours wiring the headlamp per the diagrams but it would not function like its supposed to. Warning lights came on when they were not supposed to and the headlamp never would come on.
Pulled all the wiring and switches out.
Looks like the PO may have rewired the headlight switch and/or the plug board. "

____ Sure wish I could've looked-over what the previous-owner had left you with, and supervised as you altered anything as it was. _ (As I've had everything inside there memorized as it was stock.)
If you'd like to post pics of what you have, I may still be able to help.
Also wonder which of "the diagrams" you're referring to ? _ As some I've seen are not very helpful at directly showing the intended wiring-connections within the headlamp, and therefore could possibly lead to mistakes figuring exactly which wiring-connection is to what.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

Teckhardt
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:25 pm
Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: Jupiter Headlamp

Postby Teckhardt » Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:31 am

JimF wrote:Don't try to change the color of a LED with a tinted lens. The LED only emits light at one wavelength, the wavelength that is the color of the LED.

A light bulb emits light in the entire additive color spectrum which is why it appears white to our eyes. Place a green lens in front of the bulb and it filters out all the other colors except green.

If you put green lens in front of a red LED keep in mind the red (even a "white") LED does not contain light in the green color spectrum so the lens filters out all the LED light.


No LEDs for me. Stock style B7 bulbs.
1970 450 SCR

Teckhardt
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:25 pm
Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: WideCase-headlamp Internal-wiring

Postby Teckhardt » Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:39 am

DewCatTea-Bob wrote: Also wonder which of "the diagrams" you're referring to ? _ As some I've seen are not very helpful at directly showing the intended wiring-connections within the headlamp, and therefore could possibly lead to mistakes figuring exactly which wiring-connection is to what.


I am using this diagram:

http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Electr ... iagram.jpg

This one that is very similar:

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/250_350_450mk3_d-scr.jpg

I also hand sketched a few diagrams of the mess as it was when I took it apart.

Sure I can figure it out - just gonna take some time.
1970 450 SCR

DewCatTea-Bob
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WideCase-headlamp/Key-switch Internal-wiring Modification

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Mon Oct 03, 2011 2:25 am

" I am using this diagram: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Electr ... iagram.jpg "

____ That colorized-version (scanned from an owner's manual) is adequate enough, but it's depiction of the (headlamp located) terminal-board ought to be enlarged so that all it's various wire-connections can be more clearly realized. _ I'm thinking about tackling that task. - (UPDATE - I've now done so, [as seen in the bottom-pic] !)

____ Since you've already removed some of the main components from within your headlamp anyhow, that would now make it more worthwhile to go-ahead & do some added wiring-modification.
These particular wiring-mods wouldn't be as important if the system has been converted-over to 12-volts but, the modification-logic (of reducing circuit-heating current-flow) would of course still apply.
__ First... the blue-wire to the ignition-switch ought to be changed (from 16-ga) to 14-gauge, OR better-yet, reroute the main red-wire (from the battery) DIRECTLY to the key-switch's normal/(blue-terminal)-input, (while leaving the stock blue-wire as normally electrically-connected, so as to continue feeding the parking-light as stock).
Next, (and at-least as important)... have the orange-wire, (which feeds the main-lights through fuse-19 / [# '9' in the expanded-views] ), rather get it's power-source (more directly), from the key-switch's normally unused 3rd.terminal, (instead of only [indirectly] from the terminal-board). _ That way, the key-switch's white-terminal & it's white-wire (to the terminal-board), don't have to conduct/carry ALL the power-juice/current-flow for the entire load-system, and besides that, the main-lights then won't have to draw their (large!)- share of current-flow through the terminal-board's jumper-connections (from the white-wire to the horn & brake-light fuse -[#8]) !!
So simply-put, this key-switch/wire-mod requires merely adding a 16-gauge orange-wire directly-from the key-switch to the main-light fuse, (leaving the stock orange-wire from the other side of the fuse still going directly-to the light-switch as stock).
This added wire-circuit will then allow splitting-up of all the current-flow* (through TWO output terminal-connections of the k.switch), that's drawn by the main-lights plus all the rest of the load-system, (*which is normally only handled by just the white-wire connection alone).
__ Ya may wonder why I'd bother to suggest this seemingly redundant wire-connection... Well I first came-up with this fix after installing 45-watt* sealed-beams on some w-c DUKEs, because I then later found that the stock key-switch's blue-to-white internal terminal-connection would get burned-up (and thus begin conducting very poorly [if at all] !). _ The quick-fix was to simply move the white-wire over-to the (normally) unused terminal on the key-switch, but while doing that simple reconnection-move seemed to solve the issue at first, it couldn't be trusted for long (especially with a greater than stock lighting-load). _ So whenever I had to install a new (stock-type)- ignition-switch, I'd then also make this particular wiring-modification. - (As seen in my [altered]- scheme-drawing, showing the added/suggested orange-wire.)
(* Keep in mind that while the "45-watts" may seem to be low-power, it's actually equivalent to a 12v.90w light-bulb in [circuit heating] current-draw !)
__ Also, the stock/(junky!) main/head-light's fuse-holder -(#19 / [9]) really ought to be replaced with a good/modern fuse-setup !


Mod.Cheers,
-Bob
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PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Re:WideCase-headlamp/Key-switch Internal-wiring Modification

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:57 am

machten wrote:Mod done. Thanks for the tip. Also thanks for the magnified wiring diagram in that thread. I used them to help me straighten out a few other little gremlins that were in there at the same time.

Kev
DCT-Bob wrote:Note that this quoted-section above was taken from another thread, at this link: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=867&sid=1e93b6ab202020aa4b653560e01f6283#p6015

____ It would've been nice to see a pic or two of your mod.work !
__ What were any of the "other little gremlins" you found to get straightened-out ?

____ Most others of us with comprehension of such, ought see & understand how the added jump-wire allows current-draw by the headlight to take a shortcut & bypass the thoughtless detour that the stock-wiring forces the current-juice to run-through.
That suggested mod should also help fairly-well whenever the horn & brake-light happen to draw current, (assuming that the stock fuse-holder doesn't impede current-flow, [which they usually do!] ).
Also, if the 6-volt headlight were to be made even stronger -(above 35w), then it would also be of use to replace the stock-gauge orange-wire between the main-light fuse & the light-switch, and the red-wire between the light-switch & the Hi/Lo-switch, and the green-wire between the Hi/Lo-switch & headlight-bulb's high-beam terminal, with thicker gauge wires. _ However rather than doing all of that, it's just easier (& preferred!) to install a simple relay-system !
Anyone interested ?


Fun-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

machten
Posts: 507
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:57 pm

Re: Jupiter Headlamp

Postby machten » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:14 pm

It would've been nice to see a pic or two of your mod.work !


Yes. Sorry about that. I started working on bikes at 5:30 this morning with lots to do. I broke one of my golden rules three weeks ago. I have a full time job that keeps me pretty busy, so I don't like to leave things half finished as I can't be sure when I'll get back to them. I always try to discipline myself to only have one bike apart at a time, mostly so that I can keep things clean, tidy and in order (including my mind!). Unfortunately a few faults happened in parallel, and other routine maintenance revealed other problems that were sensible to address at the same time, so.....! I had an opportunity to spend the day today on bikes, but the list was:

    250M3D wiring mod
    String line M3D and tension chain
    Lube 250 M3D cables
    Replace front and rear sprockets and chain on 750 Sport
    Lift rear head and replace head o-rings to fix oil leak on 750 Sport
    Diagnose battery boiling 750 Sport
    Lube cables 750 Sport
    Replace clutch cable 750 Sport

A solid day's work!!! I'll photo the mod as soon as I get a chance.

What were any of the "other little gremlins" you found to get straightened-out ?


The othe gremlins were:

    The "high beam" indicator was on when the light was on normal beam (wrong wiring)
    The normal beam light wasn't working at all. (broken wiring)
    The horn volume was less than pathetic (bad connection in switch)

All sorted for the moment. Like you say, a relay is the best answer, but for the moment I'll settle for what I've done. (With 6 Duc's on the go, sometimes I find I just have to settle for the expedient rather than the perfect!!!)

Kev


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