Systems to Brighten Dim Lights on Alt.Powered models

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" This is the one in my service manual, but I think it's for the round headlight?? "

____ Yeah, it does indeed seem to be for the pre-1966 Monza with the large-round headlamp-shell/bucket... As it shows a representation of the old ignition-switch which was used in that model (as well as your 1966-Scrambler!).
All it's shown circuits should be the same ELECTRICALLY anyhow, however.

____ Does your circuit-board have it's front receptor-terminals labled with: " T-_T+_C_B+ _SP_FT_S " ?


Tillater,
-Bob

[kmev]

Does your circuit-board have it's front receptor-terminals labled with: " T-_T+_C_B+ _SP_FT_S " ?

Yes, this circuit board does have those labels, just not in the same order. They are visible on the bottom of the pic of my switch.

You mentioned the white wire would be used if I planned on running the engine at high RPMs without the lights on, but did not say specifically how it would be wired. You've hinted that you wouldn't wire a bike without it, so I am curious - would it be better to use it?

I think I'll try using this coil. I guess finding the condensor mounted on the coil explains why I didn't find one on the points plate!

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Yes, this circuit board does have those labels, just not in the same order. They are visible on the bottom of the pic of my switch. "

____ I guess I should mention that my PC-monitor doesn't allow me to see much of the detail that's within pictures that are on-line... So in order to see them well, I have to download the pic and then blow it up & pan to the areas which show the details that I wish to see. _ (But often that doesn't even help much!)
__ I'll soon use those symbols to explain how I suggest that you make the most use out of that 4-way switch.


" You mentioned the white wire would be used if I planned on running the engine at high RPMs without the lights on, but did not say specifically how it would be wired. "

____ That small bit was mentioned in a more recent post, I'm sure I told a lot more in older postings!
You may not have noticed that I often go back & update my past-posts with reworded or additional info, (although I don't recall doing that concerning the white-wirelead).

" You've hinted that you wouldn't wire a bike without it, so I am curious - would it be better to use it? "

____ Oh I would indeed wire a DUKE without using it, (in a case such as yours),, just not one of MY OWN! _ As I tend to (love to) make my things & stuff as complex as possible. - (It better helps to keep the old-ticker up & running.)
When I get the chance, I'll explain in great detail the case for using the WHITE-wire, but messing with it now is not for you at this time.


" I think I'll try using this coil. I guess finding the condensor mounted on the coil explains why I didn't find one on the points plate! "

____ Right, while it's PHYSICALLY not connected as stock, it's still connected the same ELECTRICALLY! _ Plus, the condenser then won't be directly subjected to the varying heat of the motor!


StayTuned,
-Bob

[kmev]

Bob, you are quite correct! I found your below words in a much earlier post:

So for times when the lights are off, the weaker output of the WHITE-wire could be left connected to feed it's trickle-juice like power into the system to keep the battery supplied,, and when the lights are on, a switch could be used to allow the relatively high-output available from the RED-wire to feed the system (and thus keep the battery from getting drained by the lights). _ (The Japanese systems incorporate such a switch for just that very purpose, built right into the light-switch!)
Now doesn't that seem like the smart way to go?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ ALRIGHT, now that we have pictures of both the circuit-board & it's related wiring-diagram posted for reference, we should be able to easily follow what's-what.
__ Starting with the connection of the battery to the circuit-board,, I suggest a 16ga. RED-wire from the POS.post of the battery to the 'B+' terminal (of the circuit-board), and also place a jumper-wire between that B+ terminal and the 'C' terminal.
__ I suggest a 18ga. orange-wire from the POS-terminal of the FW-rect.block to the circuit-board's 'S' terminal... Also, the charging-bulb -(# "10" on the chart), can be replaced with a fuse -(10 to 20amp).
As you can now see, these wiring-connections to the key-switch (thru the circuit-board), will allow the two power-juice sources to be both connected to each other & the system-loads, all at once! - Neat! - (And so when the key is removed, the battery's juice can not leak through the rectifier to ground!)
__ Next, for the wire-connection that will be needed to allow killing of the engine,, I recommend that a 18ga. (or as small as 22ga.) green-wire be connected from the ign.coil's points-terminal to the fuse-holder/connector on the circuit-board (which originally went to the 'C' terminal)... The fuse -(# "7" on the chart), must now be removed! _ And this new-connection (from the ign.coil) must be made on the light-switch side of the fuse-connector - (NOT the C-terminal side of the fuse!).
Also, the parking-lightbulb -(# "8" on the chart), must be replaced with a jumper-wire! _ (Side-Note: while this new-circuit is unconventional and will also be connected to the taillight-connection, the taillight-bulb will not be subjected to AC-juice, so long as the jumper-wire (in place of # "8") is a solid connection!)
As you can now see, whenever the headlamp-shell/bucket switch is set to the "1"-position, the YELLOW-wirelead's power-juice to the ign.coil & points, will then be shorted to ground! - (And thus make the engine unrunable!)
You should also connect a 18ga.black-wire from the metal-casing of the headlamp-shell/bucket to the grounding-point where the ign.coil is mounted!
____ If you also feel like drawing a connection-diagram showing these additional details, (as an exploded-view of your block-diagram of The "Switch"),, then I, for one, would appreciate seeing it! - (Please don't feel obligated to do so, however!)


FunCheers,
DCT-Bob

[kmev]

Here's the diagram with the switch drawn in. The switch circuits are greatly simpified, but it is the essence of the switch wiring. I also didn't draw in the fuse, which I assume can go anywhere between the battery and switch.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Here's the diagram with the switch drawn in. The switch circuits are greatly simpified, but it is the essence of the switch wiring. "

____ Your schematic has nothing wrong with it ELECTRICALLY. _ I just note that your brake-light won't work unless the lights are turned on, and that there's a redundant line connecting the head & tail lights.
__ Your newly added details don't really reflect all the PHYSICAL-connections which your circuit-board & master-switch conveniently provide you with. _ I suggest that you take full advantage of all the circuit-board's terminal-connections which could serve your same needs.


" I also didn't draw in the fuse, which I assume can go anywhere between the battery and switch. "

____ I'm not sure what "fuse" you're actually referring to.
But you should add a master-fuse -(30-amp) between the battery's NEG.post & ground (to protect your new wire-harness!).


Cheers,
-Bob

[DesmoDog]

____ I'm not sure what "fuse" you're actually referring to.
But you should add a master-fuse -(30-amp) between the battery's NEG.post & ground (to protect your new wire-harness!).

I'll be the first to admit I'm an ignoramous when it comes to electrickery, but a fuse on the negative side of the battery? I've never seen that, don't really "get" it?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" a fuse on the negative side of the battery? I've never seen that, don't really "get" it? "

____ The main-purpose of a fuse is to keep the relatively unlimited amperage of a battery from burning-up any wiring! ... So the 'ELECTRICAL-placement' of a 'main-fuse' -(anywhere near the battery & that passes ALL the current from the battery), doesn't matter at all !
__ In the late '60s, after I had almost completely finished a rewiring-job which was done exactly as Ducati had originally designed their electrical-system (for a Monza),, I don't recall what the exact cause of the (easy) accident was, but after I had hooked-up the battery, I then somehow had a short-circuit occur within the headlight-bucket, and it caused the (stock) red-wire to melt-off not only most of it's own red-insulation, but also melted parts of other wires as well as holes through the outer black-conduit of the harness! _ So the whole ($9.+) brand-new wire-harness was ruined and had to be replaced (again).
So ever-since then, I've always made sure to add a master-fuse between the battery's NEG.post & ground... As that 'PHYSICAL-location' has always been the most convenient place to get at such a master-fuse! _ And over the years, such a master-fuse has no doubt saved at least one Ducati-designed wire-harness from being fried. - (As Ducati placed all their fuses too far from the battery!)
__ Note: such a master-fuse is not a good-idea on a widecase-model that uses the stock rectifier-box -(as it can't handle the load without getting electrically-damaged).


Safe-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[DesmoDog]

" a fuse on the negative side of the battery? I've never seen that, don't really "get" it? "

____ The main-purpose of a fuse is to keep the relatively unlimited amperage of a battery from burning-up any wiring! ... So the 'ELECTRICAL-placement' of a 'main-fuse' -(anywhere near the battery & that passes ALL the current from the battery), doesn't matter at all !
<snip>
So ever-since then, I've always made sure to add a master-fuse between the battery's NEG.post & ground... As that 'PHYSICAL-location' has always been the most convenient place to get at such a master-fuse! _ And over the years, such a master-fuse has no doubt saved at least one Ducati-designed wire-harness from being fried. - (As Ducati placed all their fuses too far from the battery!)

Ahh... that makes sense. I got why it'd work on the negative side but not why you'd recommend it be there instead of the positive side.

The only bike I've changed the wiring on has it's main fuse on the positive side but very near the battery. I won't bother changing that one but your story is food for thought on the singles I'm doing. Thanks.