Motoscrubs.com

Anybody out there with experience in getting a tank dent(s) fixed ? I have a 200 Elite tank with a dent in it, about 2 inches in diameter and 2 different shops gave me the same answer. WHat they both said is that to fix the one major dent and several smaller ones, the bottom of the tank is removed and dents pushed out from the inside and then the bottom re-attached. Seems a little agressive, but I have no basis for that.
Tony

Hi Tony,

I have heard anecdotal stories about using air pressure to pop dents out, filling the tank with water and freezing it to pop dents, and using automotive "paintless dent repair" people. Each method seems to have equal opponents and proponents. I think though that all these methods are approached from a basis of economy, that is to say that incurring a $1200 tank repair on a $1200 Honda is not advised.

I have a friend that has a BSA 441 Victor with an aluminum tank where the aluminum is exposed so the use of body filler was out of the question. This guy is away on business so I can't get the details right now, but the tank dent was removed and was flawless on its return. I think the repair guy cut open the tank, worked the dent out and rewelded the tank. Museum quality when it was all done. I'll get the details for you on who did the repair and how it was done.

Your Elite is valuable as is the Jelly Mold tank in its own right. But I also realize that spending the big bucks to have the tank repaired without the use of body fillers is only the half of it, you still need the subsequent repaint which also going to be costly.

Jim

Another option is to tack welding rod to it in a few places and pull it out grabbing the stubs with vise grips on a slide hammer, then grind 'em off. If it's not a really deep/crimped dent, sometimes only one attachment point will do it. Then heat shrink the high spots with a torch 'till it's fairly even and finish with a flat file.


Bill

By: ajleone...
" Anybody out there with experience in getting a tank dent(s) fixed ? "

____ If max.fuel-capacity is not wished to be lost any at all, then one fix-method which I've used in the past for rather larger indentations, is to drill a small hole in-through the center of the dent so that it can then be (more easily) pulled-out, (with the use of a nut with built-in fender-washer & over 2"-long screw with nut, plus a pre-drilled 2by4 piece of wood),, and after that's been done, braise-weld the hole shut, and refinish.
But I really wouldn't recommend trying that method on an (old) Duke-tank THESE-days, instead of more simply employing a good/modern dent-filler substance, and then refinish.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

Ross Thompon did my friend's BSA 441 Victor tank repair:

http://www.execulink.com/~rosst/

If you search on Google you see he has been highly praised on the Britbike forum and the BMW MOA forum.

Thanks for the ideas and pointer Jim.

One other advantage of removing the bottom, is that one of the repair shops said they would be able to recreate the welds on the forward mounting ears to the headstock, which have been repair welded on my tank.

Can anyone shot a close-up of the weld/seams on the mounting ears ? Would be greatly appreciated.
Tony