250 N/C Wiring

[willyg]

Here is a pic of the engine case and shifter cover connection, and a pic of the alternator.

With my ohm-meter set a x1k, the red wire is grounded to the stator plate reading 0. The white and yellow wires are conductive and read 0. Not sure I am doing this right.

Thanks for all the help.

Regards,
Will

[willyg]

Testing the stator again. The white and yellow wires are on the left. Grounding to the plate, neither yellow or white register. The red wire is on the right and is grounded to the plate and shows continuity.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Here is a pic of the engine case and shifter cover connection, "

____ It's too bad that the part with the clue of whether the motor is a Scrambler, is gone !
Now the next thing to check is the ign.advancer's points-cam type. _ Can you please post a close-up pic of your right-front case-cover with it's point's-cover removed ?


" the red wire is grounded to the stator plate reading 0. The white and yellow wires are conductive and read 0. "

____ Okay then, it seems that you've found that the Red-terminal is conductive to the stator-plate...
That should indeed be the case for either the 28w or 40w alt.stators (as that's always the output for the lights).
__ You also seem to have found that the White & Yellow terminals are conductive to each other... That also should be the case for either alt.stator version, and thus doesn't tell us enough. _ We actually need to know if either of those two are conductive or not, to the stator-plate.

. . .

" Testing the stator again.
Grounding to the plate, neither yellow or white register. "

____ Now that it seems you've found that there is no conduction between those two terminals & the stator-plate, (and if all else I've stated above is also actually correct, as well), then we can now be sure that you have the 40-watt version.
__ And that version is easiest to adapt for 12-volt conversion. _ (However not as powerful as the 60-watt alt.version would work!)


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[willyg]

Here are pics of the side cover. Thanks.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Here are pics of the side cover. "

____ Thanks for all your pix so far ! ...
__ Of those last two (you've posted directly above), the distant-shot showing the entire right-side of the motor-case, is not of any use to see what we need to look at.
The other closer-up shot would've been good enough except it's too dark to clearly see the exact shape of the points-cam. _ From what it appears to look most like, it now seems that I ought to take-back my thinking that your motor is a Scrambler-model, because in your dimly-lite close-up, it seems to appear that the points-cam type is not that of a narrow-case Scrambler-model, (thus may not be originally-matched with your alt.stator type). _ Which would then seem to indicate that it's even more likely that your 4-pole alternator (which you found on the motor), was possibly not original to that motor. _ As this new possible clue along with your previous thought that somebody had (already) been messing with the alt.stator, combines to allow us to think that that alternator-model/type was installed on your (otherwise possibly stock) motor, for some reason.
__ So anyway, could you please try another close-up pic.shot like that, with quite a bit more light,, and perhaps even closer, from a slightly more to the right, view-point? _ Cuz this is important to know for sure, so that we'll then know if you will have magneto -(energy-transfer), or battery-powered, type of ignition.

____ Concerning your pic with the seat removed, (which I missed before, due to being left on the older/1st-page),
there's two aspects to be left desired with it... First, it's too dark to see the darker areas in it, and second, it doesn't show the frame (from where the seat mounts in front) all the way back to where the rear fender-mount is (on the rear-loop).
So if you could please also try that (wider-shot) again as well, I'll then point-out the differences between the n-c Monza & Scrambler frames.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[Bevel bob]

The points don't seem to meet well?.

[willyg]

Hope these come out better.

No, the points do not line up well, I think with a little tweeking they should.

[willyg]

Here is another pic of the frame.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Hope these come out better. "

____ Indeed, your last batch of pix (above) are fairly-much better ! _ As it's now fairly clear that the points-cam type is also that of a narrow-case Scrambler-type model !
So now it's much more likely that the 4-pole alternator that was on your motor, was original to that motor. _ Cuz this new clue, along with your alt.stator, both indicate the same motor-model type - (Scrambler/Mk3).


" the points do not line up well, I think with a little tweeking they should. "

____ Right, when tightening the points-assy.screw, ya need to be careful that the points-spring does not twist along with the turning of the screw, and thus also miss-align the point-contacts.

____ Now that we can see the frame better, it's obviously not a Scrambler-model frame ! _ And likely original to all the other 'Monza' body-parts.


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

By: Jim...
" To make my main wiring harnesses I use 14-gauge stranded building wire from the local hardware store. "

____ I agree with everything that Jim states in his post on page-1, however I'd only make sure to use 14Ga (Red) for the wire running from the battery to the head-lamp/key-switch.
__ For the short length from the key-switch to the headlight, 16Ga (Red/White) is good enough.
Also, 14Ga for 6v ; 16Ga for 12v, (Blue/Black) wire should be run from a fuse in the head-lamp to the horn & brake-light switch.
And also 16Ga (white) from the key-switch to the ign.coil & to points -(black).
I guess the only place to use 18Ga, is for the run from the light-switch to the tail-light. _ (Which should be yellow/black.)
And for the alt.stator wire-leads, 16Ga is good enough also.

____ Please let us know if you wish to keep the 3-lead alt.stator wired-up as original (for adequate 6-volt usage), or are willing to modify it (for best 12-volt usage).


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob