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...the parts from Nigel have arrived. Really beautiful!

..some important progress was made! I've found a good 350 crankshaft and very skilled people to complete a 450 crankshaft out of that. It is nice to know that these experts are still active - I hope this will last long! I mean that in relation to the experts (as well as to the durability of the crankshaft)

Hi Wolf,

It is looking good! You are lucky that Germany has a long tradition of small, expert engineers to call upon, but gradually they are retiring and here in the UK what was once common is becoming rare.


Cheers,

Colin

Hi Colin,

I think it is the same over here, my "experts" are both 70+ and they do it out of passion but not because of a necessity. Hopefully this will remain some more time..

Cheers

Wolf

...I've run into a small problem: I'd like to remove the split drift pin from the clutch lever. It is already rather short. It does not move - is there a solution known for that problem?

Thanks and kind regards

Wolf

Hello Wolf

Not an easy job, all you can do is try and hold it with mole grips and try and tug it out. Putting a suitable size pin in the roll pin will prevent it crushing and reduce the possibility of it breaking off. Unfortunately removal sometimes results in it breaking off level with the casing. You can try to heat the casing, as that will loosen it in the casing a little. However it passes through the pivot pin which is steel so the heat won't really help there.

Alternatively if you can get someone to Tig weld a screw to the pin it can be tugged out with a slide hammer. Even if it does break flush I've removed loads using the welding recovery solution. I do have some pictures somewhere, I will hopefully add them later showing a pin removal., as it may help you and others with this issue.

Regards Nigel

I have a method that has worked for me mostly, (but not every time ) I use a pair of carpenters nippers (nail puller pliers) I have ground a little groove in the middle of the cutting edges that is about a millimeter smaller dia than that nasty little roll pin, so when I 'nip' the pin the pliers grab it very firmly but won't cut into it due to the little relief grind.......then I slip a worm drive hose clip over the nipper handles and tighten as much as possible......they are now gripping the roll pin very tightly, as Nigel recommends now heat the alloy boss around the pin, now put two opposing levers under the jaws of the nippers and if you are lucky it will come out, hope that kinda makes sense to you?? and hope it works .
Cheers,
George

...thank you very much, Nigel and George!

I will give it a try - if the plier methods won't work the TIG solution remains. Or I just leave it as is. The clutch lever works fine, but it wiggles a lot. This is the reason why I had decided to insert a new lever axis.

I will report on my progress

kind regards

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

I am not sure if the sloppiness in the clutch lever matters, it may be better to play safe and leave it alone.


Cheers,

Colin

Aye Wolf,

If it's no broken, leave alone, as suggested by Coiln.

Both the 'MoleGrip' and carpenters pincers methods work, but the slack in the lever pivot doesen't appear to matter and I just wire the lever to the crankcase boss, with copper wire, when cleaning the cases.

Good health, Bill