Oil and Petrol!

[George]

I treated the 350 tank to por15 tank cleaner and sealer. No sign of rust in clear fuel lines so far.

[Duccout]

Yes, that is one option that I haven't tried. I'll keep that as an option.


Cheers,


Colin

[Dave354]

Hi,

I have used por15 to seal my tank…. Although I haven’t tested it yet, it’s got really good reviews and certainly my tank looks clinically clean inside now. The process of degrease and rust stabilisation seemed to work a treat and the sealant is ethanol resistant.

Regards

Dave

[blethermaskite]

Never used this por stuff but have had the unbelievable difficulty of trying to remove failed tank sealer from a Triumph twin tank a couple of years ago, enough of a problem that I decided that I would never pour any strange sealing chemical into a petrol tank ever again. Just use a pot magnet with a bit of fine chain bolted to it and the other end fixed to the inside of the filler cap.......can't get away then.....and a couple of decent quality paper in line fuel filters. It will work in time,
Cheers,
George

[George]

Colin maybe this inline filter with magnet is worth trying https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265032490684

[IanHood]

I've also used Por 15 (on my Darmah tank) and am very pleased with the results. It was very rusty inside but I followed the cleaning and treatment process recommended by Por 15 and, four years on, the tank is as clean as a whistle.

[Duccout]

Thank you George(s) for the suggestions, I am working on it!



Cheers,

Colin

[Duccout]

I have some small, round, powerful magnets that will loosely fit into the petrol pipes to the carb, and these pipes have a loop at the bottom where the rust collects, so the magnets should hold it there. I can also fit a magnet inside the banjo bolt of the carb, so I should be able to stop the rust getting into the carb. I also have some small hollow magnets that I can fit on a chain and bolt that to the filler cap, which will hopefully collect the rust from inside the tank.

Watch this space!


Cheers,

Colin

[Duccout]

Here is an update on the situation: I have incorporated magnets into the fuel lines and have one in the tank, so hopefully they will gradually remove the rust from the tank.

I have fitted my new Amal carb and the engine runs perfectly with it, although very rattly, and I suspect that the diluted oil has damaged the rockers and cam, so I will have to check that. I am not too enamoured of Burlen Fuel Systems; after waiting for three weeks for the new carb, I sent them an email and they apologised and said it would be sent straight away, so my order had been forgotten! The carb itself was not well made, and I was appalled to find that the float bowl seating on the bottom of the carb body was not machined - it was simply a casting with the burrs left on which I had to dress with a file to get it smooth. The pilot jet had not been done up either......

Here are a couple of ponderables to ponder: my three old bikes all have a sticky gum coating the inlet ports, which must be coming from the petrol, possibly ethanol forming on the hot ports? Also, the Telesco forks on the 250 have no damping, which does not do much for the steering as they pogo about. I have taken out the internals and checked that everything is correctly assembled, and changed to SAE 30 oil but to no avail. There is always something to fix!

Cheers,

Colin

[blethermaskite]

Re the gum......I have recently had the carb (mk1 concentric 32mm) off the 350 mk3 for the first time in probably 30 years! and interestingly the inlet port and 'back' of the valve were spotlessly clean, however the proper Amal velocity stack bellmouth is covered inside with a yellow slightly sticky gum. I have a pair of mk1 concentrics 26mm on my pre war racing car and they definitely are pretty sticky with the same yellow gum....It has to be crap from the petrol (or whatever that stuff they sell us as petrol is these days)
Cheers,
George