clutch ball bearing

[evil]

I recently moved my 64 narrowcase (with the left cover off).

I noticed that when I was rolling the bike, a rod came out of the center of the clutch (shaft?) that the clutch assembly was fastened to. In my books diagram.... there shows a ball bearing that slides in AFTER the rod.... and sits between the rod and the end of the clutch adjusting screw.

I saw no bearing on the floor where I was working on it..... and it looks like this particular bike has been made to race.... so I was wondereing if the bearing was left out on purpouse or if I lost it and need to run out and get a bearing?

What say you all?

[JimF]

It's been awhile since I have worked on my clutch but mine has the ball bearing in there. I believe that there are two rods to the clutch actuator with the ball bearing inbetween - which for some reason I recall is to decouple the rod on the clutch side that spins (owing to energy transferred from the clutch basket) from the other rod that pushes on the clutch arm. I could have that wrong though.

I think you should add the ball bearing. Ducati added it for a reason. Probably somebody that was in there before didn't realize it fell out, or they saw it drop and did not know where it came from. It won't hurt anything, and it sure won't add much in the way of weight.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" so I was wondereing if the bearing was left out on purpouse or if I lost it "

____ It's doubtful that the ball was left out purposely.
__ Here's the original/stock line-up (of clutch-activation/pressure-transfer pieces)... Starting on the left-side, ya first have the adjustable/threaded-rod, then 1 ball-bearing, then the long-rod (which is shorter than for w-c motors), then a second ball-bearing, then the very-short (5 x 5mm) barrel/rod, & then the short rod-peg (with one tip rounded for mating to the inny-button of the lever-arm, [as already mentioned in my related post in your other thread about installing a clutch-cable] ).
__ Since you already have things further apart, you should check to make-sure that none of the other pieces are lost, by inserting a thick wire through that hole through the main-shaft, to push everything else out.
(When you have all 6 pieces ready to re-install, there are pros & cons for inserting them all back into the main-shaft's hole, from either side,, depending on which motor-case covers are uninstalled during the job.)
____ Jim is mostly correct, that the purpose of the ball-bearings is meant to help isolate the spinning (of the rods within the spinning main-shaft), from the (non-spinning) right-end rod-piece.
__ But I really believe that Ducati has the line-up order wrong for them within the mainshaft...
As anyone who understands (what's actually inclined to happen to the first 5 of the 6 separate pieces within the main-shaft), will realize that the BEST order would be: the threaded adjuster-rod DIRECTLY next to the long-rod, (since these two pieces always turn at the exact-same rate, [along with the main-shaft], anyway!), then next a ball, & the barrow-piece, & then the other ball,, and then finally, the short-rod/piece (which ought remain stationary along with the inny-button of the lever-arm). _ So that the function of BOTH balls can then be more-fully utilized to do their intended job (of preventing the [half-way exposed] short-rod from being rotated within it's case-seal and twisting it's tip-end within the inny-button) !
I can only assume that Ducati didn't place the second ball at the far right-end because it may fall-out in-between the right-end of the main-shaft & the case-seal, in the event that the short rod-peg is ever removed from the main-shaft. _ (If ever so, a magnet should easily pull it out from in there!)
__ I've installed the inner 4 pieces both in the Ducati-order and also in my own (more logical) order, probably over 50 times each,, and I admit that it didn't ever seem to make any notable difference, either way.


Fun-Cheers,
-Bob

[ajleone]

Hi Bob,
Great advice on the clutch-rod bearing order. It would be good to have a diagram !

ALso, in the event that those pieces cannot be located, what the consequences be of using stock rod pieces (wihtout the machined cupping and rounded end).
Tony

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" It would be good to have a diagram ! "

____ Perhaps somebody with all of the 6 pieces could line them up in order (on a fold of paper), as if still within their main-shaft, and take a good picture-shot of them, (as opposed to making a diagram), to then be posted here.


" what the consequences be of using stock rod pieces (wihtout the machined cupping and rounded end). "

____ Well Tony, I'm not too sure of exactly what you may actually mean but, I'm thinking that what you mean by that is what if the right-end rod-piece had a flat-tip (like the other rod-pieces, instead of the stock rounded-tip), and the inny-button (of the lever-arm) was also flat (or with even a slight outy-button shape), instead of cupped-shaped.
If I got your Q./inquiry correctly understood, then it seems to me that that unstock set-up would then put undue-stress on the upper and/or lower edges of the case-seal's hole which that rod-peg piece fits through.
__ If yours is in that condition, then you better see-about getting the correct parts before too-long.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

PS. Where I've made-up & used the term "inny-button", it was just easier than a more correct mechanical-term, such as: 'cupped-receptacle insert-piece' , or whatever.

[evil]

So it was Sunday morning, I was missing a 3/16" ball bearing, I was up til 2am working on the bike for a show today and the bike hadn't breathed in 20 years. Started back to work at 7am with no way to purchase a ball bearing so......

I used a BB...... workes fine (for now) I placed the BB at the end of the clutch lever side so I could easily remove it after todays use. The clutch lever is mega mega hard to pull, so I am assuming I need to lubricate something, but it works.....

And lo, the 64 Duc breathed fire! I have owned the bike for a decade and never ridden it. Holy Jesus is that bike fast! I would have thought I was on a 400cc four cylnder!! It took me about 45 min to get the idle right after I initialy started it but when I got her on the road I was screaming and yelping (which was barely audible over the exhaust) what a balanced and comfortable ride. And no joking she has the mach 1/ mark III engine. FAST!

I made it within 15 min of the judging time (didn't win a thing because there were 4 other 1960's Duc singles that were in great shape). But I also entered the loudest bike competition. 113db! loud as hell! Even though it was loud other guys at the show asked me to crank it up again because it sounded so nice. A sound only a Duc lover would appreciate I guess.

I owe you guys much thanks for the help...... and I will be posting in the nearby future with more Q's about this bike..... but again, THANKS!

(Thats my Duc at the begining of the line)

[ajleone]

The 5mm x 5mm barrels are availablw at domi racer

Here is a diagram as Ducati shows in the books and what Bob recommends.
Tony

[evil]

Bought the right ball bearing today.

Here is the diagram I went by:

[ajleone]

Evil,
What book did that come from. It looks to be different than the 250 narrowcase parts book - Is your diagram from a widecase singles book ?
Tony

[evil]

This book cover models made between 64 and 66.
the only engine it covers fits my narrow case to a T.