Sludge plug

[Duccout]

Hi George,

Who will be fitting your new big-end, Chris Applebee or Alex Macfazdean (EDS)?


Cheers,


Colin

[George]

It has been a long time since I removed a sludge trap plug on a Ducati. I used an impact wrench, the type that is hit with a heavy hammer, using the largest bit in the kit.
Another idea.
Sludge trap removal.jpg

Jordon Another idea to use pillar drill to apply pressure to blade was a good call. worked with small modification. I had to rig up contraption so that I could use two foot bar to get it to move.
What is general opinion on securing new plug peen thread again, loctite or just tighten with allen key.

Hi George,

Who will be fitting your new big-end, Chris Applebee or Alex Macfazdean (EDS)?


Cheers,


Colin

Colin Not heard of EDS do you recommend them

[Duccout]

Hi George,

Yes, Engine and Dynamometer Services is run by Alex Macfazdean, who has been in the engine business for years, working on some pretty exotic racing engines, like Yamaha two-strokes; he put a big-end in my 750 Ducati way back in about 1990 and I was impressed. Hard to believe that he is still working! His number is 01708 223287 and he is based in Ockenden.


Cheers,

Colin

[Jordan]

What is general opinion on securing new plug peen thread again, loctite or just tighten with allen key.

It's hard to know if Loctite has been used, so I tend not to unless as a last resort.

[LaceyDucati]

I would recommend 242/243 loctite and heat the plug with a flame if you need to remove it. My personal opinion is "Staking/centre potting is horrible and unless you have an M18x1 tap then it causes issues later on. Even then I've seen loads of nasty crossed/double threaded examples, instigated by those who can't line the tap up. All in all staking is a thing of the past, looks horrid and degrades the thread.

An impact driver and a bit of heat from a concentrated flame on the trap works 99% of the time for me, failing that, tig welding an old bolt works, but I think the heat element usually does the business whether it's Loctited or just stuck with solidified deposits. If you need to secure the crank always hold it at the crank pin, never at the bottom of the wheels otherwise you will most likely push the crank out of true.

Hope that helps.

Nigel

[George]

I would recommend 242/243 loctite and heat the plug with a flame if you need to remove it. My personal opinion is "Staking/centre potting is horrible and unless you have an M18x1 tap then it causes issues later on. Even then I've seen loads of nasty crossed/double threaded examples, instigated by those who can't line the tap up. All in all staking is a thing of the past, looks horrid and degrades the thread.

An impact driver and a bit of heat from a concentrated flame on the trap works 99% of the time for me, failing that, tig welding an old bolt works, but I think the heat element usually does the business whether it's Loctited or just stuck with solidified deposits. If you need to secure the crank always hold it at the crank pin, never at the bottom of the wheels otherwise you will most likely push the crank out of true.

Hope that helps.

Nigel

Loctite it is then. Thanks Nigel and thank you for sorting conrod