Hi Jordan,
It was idling in the images with the DC voltmeter. I can try it at 2,500 rpm with and without headlight.
I didn't look close enough and I guess I somehow understood this voltmeter to be inline measuring the voltage flowing through it, not just reading voltage like a tester. Like I said, I'm not a EE In the end I could have just used my multimeter to test between any live DC wire and ground while running. Since the regulator may (or may not) isolate different parts of the bike's electrical system I figured at the battery would be the best place to test.
Anyway, in the end I think the regulator has at least one fault for me to correct before any more testing.
Please let me know if anyone has thoughts on the specific fault in my regulator that could be repaired, or a way to integrate an off-the-shelf regulator into the system to bypass the problem.
Thanks!
Jim
250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
Hi Jim,
I have no idea, but I know a man who does! Either wait for him to chime in, or send a pm to Hans, on this forum, he knows about electrics!
Cheers,
Colin
I have no idea, but I know a man who does! Either wait for him to chime in, or send a pm to Hans, on this forum, he knows about electrics!
Cheers,
Colin
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
I'm not an electrical engineer either, just have some "petrol head" general knowledge.
They say that 13.8V is the fully-charged voltage of a nominal 12V lead-acid battery, so a 6V ought to be 6.9V
To be able to reach this level, the charging output should actually be more than that so electrons will flow into the battery.
You haven't wasted money on your new voltmeter.
Find a neat place to mount it where you can see it while riding, and you'll have an effective indicator of the state of your electrical system.
For example, if it shows over 6.9V while normally riding, your alternator is OK. But if the next time you switch on the ignition the battery voltage is lower than that, suspect a failing battery.
They say that 13.8V is the fully-charged voltage of a nominal 12V lead-acid battery, so a 6V ought to be 6.9V
To be able to reach this level, the charging output should actually be more than that so electrons will flow into the battery.
You haven't wasted money on your new voltmeter.
Find a neat place to mount it where you can see it while riding, and you'll have an effective indicator of the state of your electrical system.
For example, if it shows over 6.9V while normally riding, your alternator is OK. But if the next time you switch on the ignition the battery voltage is lower than that, suspect a failing battery.
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
That is a good point about getting over 6.9v in order to charge Jordan. I will likely rig up a mini harness with bullet connectors so I can temporarily install the voltmeter. Once I am comfortable that everything is working correctly I'll store it away for the inevitable future need
I disassembled my regulator and it looks like one of the button diodes is bad? Diode tester shows okay but I'm getting resistance readings in both directions. Probably hopeless, but has anyone ever sourced and replaced one of those?
Then I spent some time figuring out how to integrate a stock 6V regulator into the bike. I think I had it almost worked out exept for the brown charging wire... when on a lark I checked Lacey, and didn't they have a direct replacement regulator with all the correct wires including the brown. I usually land back at Lacey and this time is no exception.
I still may try to resurrect the stock regulator for the silly sake of originality, but this will hopefully allow me to get back on the road. Maybe another long ride in the fall!
I'll update as things progress.
Thanks all!
Jim
I disassembled my regulator and it looks like one of the button diodes is bad? Diode tester shows okay but I'm getting resistance readings in both directions. Probably hopeless, but has anyone ever sourced and replaced one of those?
Then I spent some time figuring out how to integrate a stock 6V regulator into the bike. I think I had it almost worked out exept for the brown charging wire... when on a lark I checked Lacey, and didn't they have a direct replacement regulator with all the correct wires including the brown. I usually land back at Lacey and this time is no exception.
I still may try to resurrect the stock regulator for the silly sake of originality, but this will hopefully allow me to get back on the road. Maybe another long ride in the fall!
I'll update as things progress.
Thanks all!
Jim
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
I don't think that measuring forward resistance of a diode gives much useful information.
There is always a voltage drop, commonly around 0.6V, consistent whatever the applied voltage is.
A simple bulb & battery test should be enough to check a diode - one way the bulb lights up, other way not - means it's OK.
There is always a voltage drop, commonly around 0.6V, consistent whatever the applied voltage is.
A simple bulb & battery test should be enough to check a diode - one way the bulb lights up, other way not - means it's OK.
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
So I bought and got the regulator from Lacey. Realizing there is no gray wire connection on the new regulator like the stock regulator had. I think that is because the gray wire that used to go to the regulator instead now gets connected to the positive terminal on the battery. The gray is the positive to power the parking light when the switch is put in parking light mode. The parking light always has power available even when the key is off. Does that sound right?
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Re: 250 Narrowcase Stator Health?
blaat! wrote:<snip> The parking light always has power available even when the key is off. Does that sound right?
Makes sense to me. You have to be able to have the parking light on without leaving the key in the ignition, no? Otherwise anyone could just start the bike up and ride it away ...
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