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Good afternoon,
I’m getting to the stage where I need to start building a new loom and get things wired up. At the moment other than the new electrex world alternator and ignition kit there is nothing. I have suitable ignition switch, horn/dip switch, kill switch, headlamp on/off/pilot switch and brake light switch. I also want to convert to LED lights front and rear, and idiot charge and main beam lights.

I’ve seen lots of you tube videos with really smart neat wiring using braided loom sheathing and heatshrink with modern fuse blocks and connectors. So I would endeavour to have the wiring as pretty and neat as possible.

Is there anyone who has done this themselves who can offer any advice and guidance on cable types etc?

I guess they don’t call it electrickery for nothing!

Regards

Dave

If you have a car breakers near you it may be worth calling in and buying some assorted bits of wiring loom, which will probably be a lot cheaper than buying new reels of wire.

Good luck,

Colin

Same has Colin advises, I have been using the scrappers for years to re use the wiring looms on bike rewiring......the only thing I would add is you will need to look at somewhat older cars to get a decent selection of wire weights lengths and colours, a lot of relatively modern cans have tape looms which are useless for your purpose.
Cheers,
George

Forgot to say........vehicle wiring products ......is your shop on the net, check it out.
Cheers,
George

Aye Dave,

Personally, I would stay well clear of old car looms. Corrosion etc! Ducati's own efforts were bad enough, without using Fiat, Peugot or Citreon horrors.

I use Vehicle Wiring Products materials.
Link: Vehicle_Wiring_Products

For LED lights, I would speak with Goffy and or have a look at his website for up to date information.
Link: Paul_Goff_classic_motorcycle_electrics

I also used relays for the horn and the headlight, so that the large amount of electrical current doesn't flow directly through the handlebar switches, but through circuits that are switched in or out by the relays. The headlight dipswitch relay is the same as that used on VW Beetles, as it needs to be a locking relay, to maintain the circuit, rather than a make or break relay, as you would use for the horn.

All connections are made with plated spade terminals or Japanese bullet connectors, crimped and soldered and sheathed with plastic sheaths, were appropriate, or heat shrink tubing. The other useful item is self-amalgamating tape. This can be used to prevent chafing of wires against the frame and where zip ties hold the loom to the frame etc. The best sleeving I have used is the "twist wrap" braided sheathing from VWP. It holds the wires neatly and securely, yet allows ready access to the wires for fault finding and prevents chafing of the wires around the steering head. So far, so good on the 450 MKIII after 7,500 miles. The majority of the relays/fuses are held in the left-hand tool box and I am using an Electrex alternator and separate Electrex ignition. The latter, is the best modification that you can make to a Ducati single.

If you want more info, say, but I'm off to my sheet alley!

Good health, Bill

Thank you all. Whilst I do love to recycle things, I’m afraid stripping old car looms may give me more problems than my limited electrical brain an deal with. Thanks for those links Bill, they are exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully with LED lights there may not be a need for a relay as they pull such little current. I did like the m unit blue (digital system) but with so few circuits it’s not really useful.
Back to drawing out the wiring loom!

Dave

Morning Dave,

I use the relays because I only have a pair of miniature buttons for the horn and the 'Main/Dip' on the handlebars beside the levers and they wouldn't take the current. As you suggest if you are going to use more 'standard' handlebar switches and LED bulbs, then the relays might be a bit of overkill. However, even with a LED headlamp, I would be inclined to use the VW locking relay.

I also have individually fused circuits, rather than a single fuse on the battery feed. It just means that I can still run the engine if something goes phut in the lighting/horn circuits.

The wire/cable that I use is the 'Thin walled" type. Link: Single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable

For more corrosion resistance this would be your option, but it is a bit of overkill. Link: Tinned-single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable

M unit blue is all very well, but as you suggest, with few circuits and limited resources, some good quality matereials, well put together, will give you a reliable system.

All the best playing with your multi-coloured spaghetti!

Bill

Thanks again Bill, thanks for the link, a great place for electrical stuff, The twist wrap is what I was looking at under a different name and was having trouble getting any other than from the USA or in lengths over 20 feet in the UK!

Sadly the days of motor factors and Joe Lucas shops have gone but I guess on line has opened up new markets. I certainly would never have gotten the rebuild anywhere near without so many great suppliers on line. I’m sure if I looked hard enough I’d find hens teeth and unicorn eggs!

Dave