Clutch adjustment behaving strangely

[themoudie]

Graphite dust that is sold for lubricating locks is the dry lubricant required. Just a wee piff, paff poof, into the cable outer, like you would powdering a babies bottom is all you need!

Good health, BillR

[themoudie]

Out today scrubbing in new tyres, bedding in the brakes and using the new, no nylon sheath clutch cable, along with the "EasyPull" lever accessory.

A very different clutch pull at the handlebar, not quite single finger, but so much easier than the clagged up ferrules, full of disintergrating nylon of the old cable.

However, as in George's original initial post on this thread, as the 40 mile canter went on so I lost the ability to free the clutch! Bearing in mind that this is a '74 450 MKIII, with 22Kg clutch springs and not George's '75 350 MKIII, with either 17Kg clutch springs, or maybe a 3:3 mix of the two spring poundages.

So, inspite of having new (~1,000 miles), after the spring pillar failed, fibre plates, 2mm steel plates (with 1mm spacer at the back of the clutch hub), 22Kg springs, a non-warped pressure plate, accentuating set of balls, roller and rods, new clutch cable, all adjusted to give 2-3mm of play at the clutch accentuating arm, after 10 miles, selecting neutral became problematic, not impossible, but problematic. There was no appreciable loss of free play. So, adjusted freeplay out (0mm) and some order was restored. But I then worried about cooking the accentuating set etc. Towards the end of the run the ability to free the clutch plates had again disappeared and I still had 0mm free play.

I haven't spoken with Nigel, from whom I have purchased the components.

I was wondering about substituting one of the 2mm steel plates towards the back of the clutch pack, with a 1mm steel plate, to ensure that with the limited clutch lift (5mm) available, I get the clutch plates to actually separate?

Or, would an additional ¼" roller or a tempered silver steel rod with an additional ~2mm length be a better solution to ensuring that I get clutch plate separation, whilst retaining 2mm of free play at the accentuating lever?

Thank you.

Good health, Bill

[blethermaskite]

Has this all happened on your first run with the 'easy pull device fitted? did you run it and was it was it ok before? (I know your cable had bug**d up) bearing in mind that any device that lightens the lever pull is I would assume reducing the actuating movement at the clutch.
Cheers,
George

[Jordan]

Any chance the problem cable is attached to the frame in such a way that it introduces undue friction?
Tight bends?

[graeme]

The cable has to be routed so there are no tight bends.
And check the clutch basket “fingers” for wear grooves.
The steel and friction plates for wear and lips that catch in the basket and centre .

Graeme

[themoudie]

Aye George, Jordan and Graeme,

Thank you for your time.

George, this was the first run with the "EasyPull", short lever on a single fulcrum, with the handlebar lever attached to the upper part of the short lever and the clutch accentuating lever connected below and about halfway up the short lever from it's fulcrum. Lack of travel distance might be the answer. The clutch using just a cable would disengage, but not as cleanly as you would like and I haven't tried the new cable alone, since ditching the nylon sheathed one.

Jordan, sweeping curves and only tucked in behind a single frame tab, after the cable loops from right to left and then back under the centre tube of the frame above the cylinder head, before travelling forward between the fuel tank and frame to then loop freely across the steering head stem, behind the headlamp, up to the "EasyPull" and on to the handlebar lever. Not sure if I could make it much slacker, without inducing uneccesary stretch into the system.

Graeme, this could be the "bete noire", the clutch basket does not have grooves in the fingers, but the hub semi-circular grooves, in which the steel plates half moons sit, have been filed, yet still retain some smoothed depressions. I have been conservative in trying to remove these, as I am afraid that if I make their diameter too large that it will cause drive problems. Maybe I should be bolder and run an 8mm diameter file down each groove, then polish them, afore heating to red heat and re-hardening by dunking the whole hub in oil to cool.

I am being a cheapskate, as this is the hub that was refurbished with the new 8mm spring pillars, after one snapped and has covered at least 90,000 miles. I suspect any 2nd hand replacement will cost an arm and a leg and need the replacement of its spring pillars added to the bill!

This beastie of Nigel's Lacey_450_racing_clutch_hub would be the answer, but I am trying to get the 350 up and running as well and I would also have to "invest" in an extended Nova clutch basket. It just isn't going to happen! Sorry Nigel.

Thank you for your ideas.

Good health, Bill

[Duccout]

Hi Bill,

The culprit is your easy pull lever device; all these gadgets reduce the pull necessary to lift the clutch, and in doing so actually lift the plates less. I am firmly of the belief that there is no such thing as a free lunch. Try it without the easy pull gadget and I am sure that it will be OK.


Cheers,

Colin

[blethermaskite]

Bill, its the easy pull thing
Cheers,
George

[Eldert]

Hi Bill

do you have the correct 450 presure plate ? its 1 mm thicker to cope with the heavyer clutch springs .

what happens when the engine warms up and you pull the clutch is that the middle of the pressure plate
moves outwards but the outside barely moves out

what i do is i braze 3 ribs on the inside of the pressure plate . you have to remove material in 3 places in the clutch drum to make room for the ribs

Eldert

[blethermaskite]

That's a nice well thought out modification
Cheers,
George