Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 1:35 pm
Has anyone a recommendation for a fuel additive and stabiliser (UK)?
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Fuel additive and stabiliser
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Re: Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 3:44 pm
If you do an internet search, the FHVC did a test when leaded disappeared, and they found that Castrol Valvemaster and Miller's VSP came out top, but I don't know if they have any stabilizing qualities. Is there anything that will help to combat ethanol? I doubt it.
Re: Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 7:31 pm
Has anyone tried "Alkylate petrol" in a Ducati single? I am seeing it in garden machinery shops: it seems to be additive-free, and very stable (it is good for 3+ years in the vehicle tank), and may even be more eco-friendly if the manufacturers are to be believed. No doubt it would need some upper cylinder lubricant added. It does cost more than normal petrol, but maybe worth it to avoid the dreaded ethanol!
Al.
Al.
Re: Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 7:48 pm
I'm not sure what 'fuel stabiliser' is, is fuel unstable? - apart from the fact that it's flammable, which is a good thing for engines.
E20 petrol is quite hygroscopic and if left in the open environment it will absorb water, so best to avoid it if possible.
I'm lucky in the south east UK as I can use Esso Synergy Supreme +99, which at the moment contains zero ethanol - unless you're in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland were it 'could be' 5%. https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol
Some folks I've met swear by the little zinc (or some other metal) balls you can drop into the tank that are supposed to increase performance, fuel consumption etc. The balls are available at a lot of the bike shows in the UK and make wild claims, but I remain very sceptical and wont invest.
Loads of information if you google it and a lot of snake oil too.
E20 petrol is quite hygroscopic and if left in the open environment it will absorb water, so best to avoid it if possible.
I'm lucky in the south east UK as I can use Esso Synergy Supreme +99, which at the moment contains zero ethanol - unless you're in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland were it 'could be' 5%. https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol
Some folks I've met swear by the little zinc (or some other metal) balls you can drop into the tank that are supposed to increase performance, fuel consumption etc. The balls are available at a lot of the bike shows in the UK and make wild claims, but I remain very sceptical and wont invest.
Loads of information if you google it and a lot of snake oil too.
Re: Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:14 pm
The old, immediate post WWII mixtures of petrol and alcohol were preferred to straight 'pool' petrol and personaly I am not worried about the "performance" aspects of the brew! 
However, the solvent effects of ethanol on paintwork and glass fibre are well known, it also digests many of the rubber/plastic fuel fittings that were fitted as "standard" until recently, so this is where my main concern is. Fuel lines on my Yamaha SRX' are buried beneath the fuel tank, directly above a hot cylinder and exhaust silencer beneath! Annual checks and replacement with 'Viton' fuel lines and quality fuel filters appears to be the answer. Carb and fuel pump diaphrams not made from 'Viton' are likely to prove more perishable!
Powder coating appears more resistant to the solvent effects of the E10 fuel and I intend to use that painting method, rather than liquid spraying on future projects. A powder coat can be flatted back and oversprayed, with a liquid paint that can then be given 5 or 6 coats of lacquer to finish, if required.
Nigel Lacey and I have also had a blether about fuel additives to prevent condensation/fuel separation and I have been using Castrol 'Valvemaster', as it not only requires 1ml to 1litre of fuel, but also prevents valve seat erosion, so two birds, with one stone in the case of the '74 450 MKIII.
I have filled up the Yamaha SRX600, a Honda Bros400 and the 450 MKIII, with E10 and then added the appropriate amount of Castrol 'Valvemaster' and have not found any deterioration in engine performance, or separation of the fuel. At present the machines are doing at least 50 miles a week each.
Three bottles (750ml) of 'Valvemaster' for £33-00 delivered from a UK eBay seller seemed fair enough to me.
If a bike is going to be off the road for any longer than 6 - 8 weeks, then I shall drain everything down and put a mist of 'Redex' and or 'Bulldog BDX' to the internal surfaces of steel tanks.
I too, am sceptical about the claims made for the potential catalytic, metallic shapes. I have never seen the seller produce a double blind, positive test result from the use of his 'product'.
Good health, Bill
However, the solvent effects of ethanol on paintwork and glass fibre are well known, it also digests many of the rubber/plastic fuel fittings that were fitted as "standard" until recently, so this is where my main concern is. Fuel lines on my Yamaha SRX' are buried beneath the fuel tank, directly above a hot cylinder and exhaust silencer beneath! Annual checks and replacement with 'Viton' fuel lines and quality fuel filters appears to be the answer. Carb and fuel pump diaphrams not made from 'Viton' are likely to prove more perishable!
Powder coating appears more resistant to the solvent effects of the E10 fuel and I intend to use that painting method, rather than liquid spraying on future projects. A powder coat can be flatted back and oversprayed, with a liquid paint that can then be given 5 or 6 coats of lacquer to finish, if required.
Nigel Lacey and I have also had a blether about fuel additives to prevent condensation/fuel separation and I have been using Castrol 'Valvemaster', as it not only requires 1ml to 1litre of fuel, but also prevents valve seat erosion, so two birds, with one stone in the case of the '74 450 MKIII.
I have filled up the Yamaha SRX600, a Honda Bros400 and the 450 MKIII, with E10 and then added the appropriate amount of Castrol 'Valvemaster' and have not found any deterioration in engine performance, or separation of the fuel. At present the machines are doing at least 50 miles a week each.
Three bottles (750ml) of 'Valvemaster' for £33-00 delivered from a UK eBay seller seemed fair enough to me.
If a bike is going to be off the road for any longer than 6 - 8 weeks, then I shall drain everything down and put a mist of 'Redex' and or 'Bulldog BDX' to the internal surfaces of steel tanks.
I too, am sceptical about the claims made for the potential catalytic, metallic shapes. I have never seen the seller produce a double blind, positive test result from the use of his 'product'.
Good health, Bill
Re: Fuel additive and stabiliser
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2021 6:40 am
I've been using Valvemaster Plus in my 1976 Alfa Spider, and when my 250 Mk3 is running I'll probably use it in that too. I get it from Classic Oils at Bicester Heritage.
Valvemaster Plus contains Octimise-Plus friction modifier for increased acceleration and economy, increasing acceleration by up to 3% and increasing economy by up to 2%. It also contains Etha-Guard ethanol stabiliser, enabling the use of Ethanol E5 and E10 petrol, preventing acidity, protecting against corrosion and keeping the fuel system clean.
Valvemaster Plus contains Octimise-Plus friction modifier for increased acceleration and economy, increasing acceleration by up to 3% and increasing economy by up to 2%. It also contains Etha-Guard ethanol stabiliser, enabling the use of Ethanol E5 and E10 petrol, preventing acidity, protecting against corrosion and keeping the fuel system clean.