New guy with Mk3

[Romomoto]

Hi folks -
I've joined this forum to learn about singles, because I recently was able to buy a restored 1966 Mk3, and I have no previous experience with these bikes. I do have considerable history with other Italian and British bikes, but Ducati singles never crossed my path until now.
This bike is such a pristine gem that I feel more like a custodian than an owner, and I treat it accordingly. But I ride my motorcycles, and come spring I'll be ready to fire this guy up and enjoy a few tours of the area.

This bike has not been run in many years, apparently. The engine spins freely, and I introduced some MMO down the hole and let it sit for a while, did the standard stuff, so I have a clean carb and a fat spark. Changed the oil, and added a bit under the rocker boxes and the bevel drive.
So - anything else known to be important before bringing one of these bikes back to life? I'll check wheel bearings, brakes etc. but I'm thinking specifically of drive train issues.

Also - can anyone recommend the best book on Ducati singles?

Thanks,
Romomoto

[JimF]

The narrow case MK3 is a very valuable model!

I would do the obvious, fresh engine oil and inspection of the gauze oil filter and the drained oil for metal bits that would suggest engine issues.

I would take the cover off the bevel gears such that if it should start you can witness the oil flow to same. (Be advised the oil will squirt.)

Be ready with the kill switch or to pull the spark plug wire when you see the oil begin to squirt.

If the carb and float bowl were dry when the bike went into storage fuel delivery should work.

The kick start mechanism on these bikes can be problematic, so be mindful if it should slip when kicking through as it will need repair.

When it starts and oil flow is verified, stop the engine and put the bevel gear cover back on.

You’ll probably want to give it a brief ride to test the clutch, brakes and gearbox.

Since it’s been sitting a long time you might pull in the clutch and drop it into gear. Keep in mind the clutch plates my be stuck and as such the rear wheel may be engaged to the engine. If so the bike will lurch forward when dropped into gear regardless of the clutch lever being pulled in. Be ready for that possibility so as not to be caught off guard one spill the bike.

That's all I can think of, you’ll get more and better advice as more people respond.

Jim

[Bevel bob]

I would look at the bevel end of the cam to see it has a roll pin in there to encourage more oil to the cam lobes. As Jim said the KS is a vulnerable item ,as is the stand. Ease a fraction over compression before kicking,and learn to start OFF the stand ,which just cannot take the strain. I would free off the clutch by holding it in and rocking the bike back and forth in gear with engine off. If you get it running ok Keep the revs above 3000 ,and preferably higher as the big end does not like low revs in use. Fit a lower final drive which will make traffic so much better and 5th gear will be useable . Do not port the Inlet or remove support for the valve guide ,big mistake. If you have a hill bump start in 2nd or even 3rd, will save your KS and your leg.

[blethermaskite]

Pretty much agree with all the points above, however two things I would expect, (1)....the clutch will almost certainly be stuck and despite the good advice above, which if you are lucky will work, I would be prepared to remove the clutch side engine cover to strip and free the clutch assembly (I have seen these almost welded together with a mixture of old polluted oil and rust from condensation inside the engine) (2) to check the oil circulation remove the spark plug put bike in second gear and with the bevel drive top cover off just push the bike around until the oil appears out of the centre of the cam........the oil pump on these engines will provide a large quantity of oil to the head very suddenly and will make a huge mess in seconds.....I know this because I have made that huge mess .
Good luck with your first start.
Cheers,
George

[Bevel bob]

Your bike sounds as if it has been restored . If you are really lucky it will be as good as it looks. If it starts and runs ,and rides well you are truly lucky. There are plenty of restorers who can do good cosmetics but there are several Ducati restorers around who are useless at building bevel motors . So be a little wary. I bought one such Mark 3.

[Romomoto]

Thanks, guys. I really appreciate your advice and insights. I will take your advice on the clutch & checking oil flow to the bevel drive. I think I have the other stuff covered at this point.

Yes, the bike has been restored, at least cosmetically. I don't know anything about the mechanical history; the seller seemed to believe the bike had NOT been restored and was original, which clearly is not the case. So he is not a reliable source of info.

Here's what the bike looks like. A quick question: there is a dab of yellow paint on top of the cylinder head. Does this mean anything regarding the internals, or was someone just waving paint around?

Also an interesting thing: Peering down inside the fuel tank, I can see a label with the tank manufacturer's name inside.

Cheers,
Romomoto

Diana left lo rez P1040493.JPG

[Duccout]

Beautiful bike!

[Romomoto]

It sure is beautiful, isn't it. And I want to make sure there's no "Dang, I wish I knew that before I ran it" model-specific issues I should address before bringing it back to life.

I got another bike with this one (well, four more, actually, but one Ducati). A 1966 Monza 250 in shabby condition, but complete. Not sure what I'll do with that one.

[Romomoto]

OIL PUMP QUESTION:
I pulled the bevel drive cover and spun the engine using the kickstart lever for quite some time. No oil emerged.
So I pulled the Y-shaped oil feed to the head, spun the engine again for a while. No oil emerged.
I poured an ounce or so down the bevel drive tube and spun the engine, over and over. No change.

So - is there a technique I can use to prime the oil pump without accessing the pump from inside?

[Duccout]

No! The 'y' shaped oil pipe is the drain from the head! The oil itself is pumped up through an internal drilling, which runs up through the barrel and head, then through the end cap on the side of the head above the spark plug, and then through the camshaft.

How are you turning the engine? It will take a lot of revolutions to get the oil up to the cam box, and the best way is what has been suggested - with the spark plug removed, put the bike in top gear and push it, eventually oil will reach the top-end. I would put the 'y' pipe back on and take off one of the valve covers, and shine a torch at the camshaft, that is where the oil will first show up.