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I've just checked the ignition timing and it was spot-on, as far as can be ascertained with the Electrex system - the marks on the timing pick-up are so tiny, with 28° and 38° marked with lines that are really close together, with no accurate way to tell where the in-between marks are. I have just set it so that the rotor line is just visibly in front of the 38° line, in the hope that it will be 36°. It would be helpful if Electrex would at least mark the individual degree lines between 28 and 38.

As well as that, I've dropped the slide needle in the carb down as far as it will go and will road test it and see if it makes any difference.

Colin

Hello Colin

I have asked Electrex to add a 34 degree mark in the future. If you have installed a timing disc to ascertain TDC the easiest way is to set the engine to 36 degrees BTDC (assuming that's what you require) and use the FA mark to set the ignition. For some reason ignition manufacturers are obsessed with setting at TDC which is fine on a bike with a flywheel marked so, but no real help if it's not! What it encourages is the pencil through the plug hole TDC, which is a bit hit and miss and unlikely to be within a couple of degrees.

Ignitions should always if possible be checked with a strobe via a crank mounted disc to verify timing. LED's and lines don't actually confirm what it's actually doing in reality. Then again from experience 32...36 degrees won't make a startling difference on the average road bike, so maybe I'm just being fussy and the old HB pencil would suffice and speed up timing.....that's not a recommendation from me though!

Regards Nigel

Thanks Nigel,

Grrrrrr I never thought of setting the timing with the FA mark..... I could have done that when setting it in the first place. Still my engine is so softly tuned a couple of degrees error probably won't make any difference.


Colin

Update! I did re-time the ignition to the FA mark and it was spot on! I've just been out for a run and the new ignition switch seems to have cured the misfire, so thanks to Jon for suggesting it. The engine is running very cleanly (apart from the God-awful rattle) but is still a bit weak when pulling away which I think is definitely the slide, but I am reluctant to spend close to £50 on a replacement, even if one was available, which it is not, so I'll leave it for now.

I really wish that the front brake was better, I'm riding warily all of the time. I don't know if the brake is just bad because it is an old drum and I'm used to modern discs, or if it would be improved with a new cable and shoes.

I spend a lot of time fetling drum brakes, greasing pivots ,swopping shoes around to get the thickest one the leader , shimming the brake plate stop against the leg to correct any distorsion which usually allows me closer adjustment,centralising the plate, lubing cables , it all adds a little and helps. Getting the drum properly round and the linings a close fit is well worth it. In my case getting the brake hot dramatically sharpens it up, a sure sign that I have racing linings , Hopefully some road linings will prove more suitable for my gentle bimbling around.

I've just got back from a lovely run, and the little Strada is running great, no carb glitches at all, so I'm glad now that I went for the Mikuni. It is amazing how enjoyable this little bike is in the right environment, which is the back lanes, although with a practical top speed of 60 it is not suitable for main roads and feels like it's breaking the sound barrier on the rare occasions when I have taken it on bigger roads.

When I look back on the all the trials and tribulations, it seems incredible that I have got it to this point. I never set out to restore it, just make it roadworthy, although it has cost me far more that I anticipated, but that is always the case, and strangely, although I expected big-end and gearbox replacement, both were ok (for now!). Nothing is ever finished though, and I must sort out the front brake and a re-wire has to be tackled sometime, plus I am worried about the diabolical rattling emanating from the engine, which I suspect may be due to the ball-bearings being loose in the rockers (must get around to listening with a screwdriver stethoscope).

Colin

Good stuff, Colin and well done for persevering.

As you say, each bike has its proper environment. I wouldn't take my Scrambler down an autostrada ...

Grrrrrrrrrrr!

I needed a new front brake cable, and found that Ducati Vintage had a complete cable set available for the 1st series Scrambler, so that seemed a good idea, so I ordered one. It arrived today and the clutch and brake cables don't fit! I would have thought that Ducati Singles cables would have been universal, Italian or Spanish, but the Italian ones are much thicker and don't fit the Spanish fittings. So, 44 Euros down the drain and I am back to square one. Grrrrrr!

Colin.

Hi Colin

Annoying about the cables being the wrong sizes and the money down the pan. It's a minefield and even when you can get the correct diameters, often the length will not be quite correct.

I make all my own cables for all my bikes and this way, you can customise the lengths to suit whatever handlebars you're using and whatever diameters you require. You can also use low friction linings to the outers. It's ever so easy to do once you get the hang of it.

I get all my supplies from Venhill in Dorking and only takes 2 - 3 days to arrive https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components/fittings-amp-components.html

Snap, Bob.

Good health, Bill