Motoscrubs.com

Hmmmm, you'd need to consult a blacksmith. Half an inch is a very small amount, so it should be easy to braze an extension on to the bottom of the feet, maybe just two flat pads, with a brazed fillet along each side. When I've been dealing with vee twin stands I have shortened or lengthened by an inch, so have cut the tubes and inserted spigots and got them brazed, which is an option for you, but does not seem necessary for such a small extension.

There are some very good blacksmiths about and they are very skilled, so a couple of brazed feet should be easy!

The stand on my 175 measures approx 220mm from the centre of the pivot to the centre of the spur used to deploy it.
This puts the tyre approx 35mm off the ground when on the stand.
I have to say that I sometimes just lean the bike against the fence as it’s pretty light. 110kg dry when I weighed it.

ranton_rambler wrote:The stand on my 175 measures approx 220mm from the centre of the pivot to the centre of the spur used to deploy it.
This puts the tyre approx 35mm off the ground when on the stand.
I have to say that I sometimes just lean the bike against the fence as it’s pretty light. 110kg dry when I weighed it.

1743E62D-B550-4A65-9AA2-C7EABF08F9FC.jpeg

Thanks for replies. Think I have sorted replacement, due to collect tomorrow.

I now have an extended 125 centre stand thanks to Jon. With slight alteration all fitted to frame.
Rear shocks stripped. Shafts are scored. My thoughts are that by the time I find internal parts, new rubbers and have shrouds chromed I might just as well buy new replacements. Jesus Guzman have look-a-like Betor shocks http://recambiousado.com/venta/index.ph ... er=product. Has anyone an opinion on these or any alternative recommendations. Not looking for anything extravagant.
They also have replacement silencer http://recambiousado.com/venta/index.ph ... er=product plus down pipe and clamp. Again any recomendations welcome. Not sure if prices include VAT and what delivery from Spain is like at the moment.

George wrote:Rear shocks stripped. Shafts are scored. My thoughts are that by the time I find internal parts, new rubbers and have shrouds chromed I might just as well buy new replacements. Jesus Guzman have look-a-like Betor shocks http://recambiousado.com/venta/index.ph ... er=product. Has anyone an opinion on these or any alternative recommendations. Not looking for anything extravagant.

Much depends on what you're trying to achieve, George. I have rebuilt/re-commissioned worn out old shocks in the past, but these days I'm more inclined to forsake a bit of originality for better performance, longevity (hopefully ...) and less time spent fixing things that, frankly, weren't so great in the first place ..

(Buy the new ones .)

I'll second that, there are just too many pitfalls in restoring shocks. When I buy the correct length shocks for my Stada, I'm probably going for NJB shocks; anything to keep the cost down!

Duccout wrote:I'll second that, there are just too many pitfalls in restoring shocks. When I buy the correct length shocks for my Stada, I'm probably going for NJB shocks; anything to keep the cost down!

Dismantled shocks. not worth repairing. The Betor shocks offered on Guzman website look the same as original I will go with them and have painted gold when rest is being painted.

With Jon's help we have established that I have early 1960s Mototrans 125TS engine with 125 sport cam, piston and 20 mm carb instead of 18mm carb.
Stripped carburettor Amal 375 20. I would say that all jets, needle, float and float valve are new. inside spotless.
Cylinder Head has 20 mm inlet tract,same for both models, I am guessing that PO fitted 20 mm Amal carb unfortuately fitted to existing 18mm carb connector flange leaving inlet restriction. I will have to look for replacement. If anyone has one to sell please contact me. Photo below.

Amal 375 20 carb settings:
Main jet 85. Pilot jet 15. Taper needle A1 set on highest (most rich) notch. Needle jet 104D. Slide 375/3
My question is are these settings correct or at least close enough to get bike started for fine tuning when the time comes. Pilot and main jet seems small, wondering if this is why needle set rich. Any opinions welcome.

Hi George,

Your carb looks to be from a 160TS model.
All the jets etc. appear to be correct .
You should be able to get the bike started with this carburettor.

jon

Jon Pegler wrote:Hi George,

Your carb looks to be from a 160TS model.
All the jets etc. appear to be correct .
You should be able to get the bike started with this carburettor.

jon

Thanks Jon