Bike hesitating- I'm about to throw it in the lake. NEED HELP

[HMBAtrail]

Tank venting is not the culprit. Just tested it. I get +/-96 ounces of flow per minute whether the gas cap is on or off the tank. I've messed around with exhaust length (it was quite a bit longer before) and it didn't make any difference. I will weld an O2 sensor on it to check against an A/O gauge. Any suggestions as to optimal place to weld it in? After 1st bend? In the 1st bend? Elsewhere? Does it matter?

I will re-install the motor and check if float level is right. If it isn't float level then I'm genuinely stumped as to what is causing the problem.

[HMBAtrail]

Tank venting might be the culprit.
A dumb question: When you are tucked in at WOT, could your knee be blocking the carb intake?
I have never had any success with a reverse cone meg and the total length of your exhaust seems very short.
Check photos of the factory racers from late 60s/early 70s. They all have long slow taper megs with, maybe, just a hint of a reverse cone at
the end. Many years ago when I was racing my 250 MK3 I used a meg with these dimensions: Header pipe 1 1/2" X 21" long connected to a 32"
long meg tapering to 3 1/4". At the very end there was about a 1/8* long reverse for an exit opening of 2 7/8". This gave good hesitation free performance to 9K and beyond.
At continuous WOT in 4th/5th gear, the exhaust gas temperature doesn't get much of a chance to cool. This might be effecting the timing of the reflected pulse from your short exhaust and upsetting the intake charge flow.
John

John, thanks for the input. Something to consider!

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

Another's thing to check, a friend of mine described a simular issue he had running a TZR recently. He found that his fuel pipe was collapsing under the heat from the head when running hard running... He's been trying various ethanol resistant pipes and described a similar issue, by the time he had stopped and got the tank off the fuel pipe looked fine, but I can't remember how he eventually discovered it but he spotted that the pipe collapsed it got hot.

[double diamond]

Location of an oxygen sensor in the exhaust system depends upon whether you use a wide band vs. narrow band sensor. Will you use a complete kit or piece it together yourself? Might be more expedient to put you Ducati on a dyno and use the skills of an experienced facility.

Matt

[Jordan]

Aw, where's the fun in that?

[double diamond]

Hah!
The fun is in realizing the full potential of all those racy parts. Our friend has taken on a daunting challenge assembling all those parts and hoping to have them all work in harmony. When this engine finally runs as it should, I expect it will be impressive. It should produce something in the range of 40hp. But getting there by seat-of-the-pants tuning is wishful thinking. My own 350 WC race bike runs well throughout the powerband but I’m sure it could run better with a dyno session. Also, I have no idea where the power peak is, hence, where the optimal shift point is.
Now, that would be fun.

Matt

[graeme]

I have to agree
Pay for a few dyno sessions
Take lots of carb jets and needles
You have paid the price of quality parts and done the time fitting them
What you pay for an air fuel dyno run may save your expensive parts.
Best $ you will spend.
I have a warm 74 450 Desmo that has eaten pistons
I thought it was lean,,,, but no, it was too rich and washing oil from the cylinder at constant 1/2 throttle.
I bought a wide band instrument that was a great help, no dyno anywhere down here.
I put the sensor near the selector box. (used an old header pipe)
But if there was a dyno here I would trust that more than an EBay a/f gizmo

Graeme

[Jordan]

I guess I'm outvoted here, but I still gotta get one of those A/F gauge kits to play with.
Renting a dynamometer is no doubt a great option for ultimate results.
My own desire is to just get nice crisp performance at moderate cost.
I gather that the cheap kits available utilise automotive EGO sensors, which could be sourced from quality cars?
I think the display units are just voltmeters.

[graeme]

For you Jordan,

I bought a AEM Wideband O2 kit AFR UEGO gauge 30-4110

From Game On Motorsports in Australia $330 au

It’s made by Advanced Engine Management. Inc
Hawthorn CA.
WWW.AEMPOWER.COM

Works well and easy to read and understand
(still not as good as a good dyno)
Seems to need a fully charged 12 v battery to be accurate
I cable tied the gauge to the top triple clamp
Vibrations from 450 didn’t affect it

Graeme

[Jordan]

Thanks Graeme,
I don't want to spend that much, and I see now that as well as the Lambda (EGO) sensor and display unit, some controller gadget is called for.