250 Alternator Wire Source

[tricolormonster]

Hi Guys

I'm seeking a source for some Hi-Temp 2 lead wire to replace the degrading and cracked alternator wire in my 250.
Any ideas? Didn't see it listed at BevelHeaven or Guzzino.

thanks in advance

stu

[DucBevellvr]

WELCOME Stu, (I see you're new)!

If you look thru all the threads here, I'm sure you'll find there's a number of them which cover interesting info related to your rewiring project!
And at least one of those threads has mentioned using some kind of preferred wire/cable for that job, (which I also need to get done some day!).

Happy reading!

JeffP

[JimF]

The colors of the individual insulated wires on the inside are wrong, but an AC line cord from an old junked computer is perfect. Just cut the plug and the recptacles off the ends.

The jacket that surrounds the three inner conductors is black and is UV/chemical resistant so at that point it looks the part and will actually fufill the application. The inner wires will be white, black and green. The most common wire size is 14 gauge AWG (so a three conductor cable is 14/3 AWG.)

Some heavy duty computers might use 12 gauge wire (12/3 AWG) and so if the 14/3 wire is too small a diameter in the engine hole, look for a 12/3 cable.

[tricolormonster]

Thanks guys.
I was totally wondering if an old computer cord would work. I have a million of them.

stu

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ While for myself I'd prefer to make my own conduit-cable with the wire-colors I prefer, I can understand how this novel-idea (of Jim's) would be easier, cheaper & quicker to go with. _ However I have the following thoughts...
Since your DUKE-project (which you need the cord from a computer for), is going to be more valuable than your newest computer is going to be worth,, then rather than choosing to make use an "old" (thus pre-aged) cord of the like for your DUKE-project, instead choose to use the cord from your newest computer -(and let it be the thing which makes further use of an OLD cord, instead) ! _ (Assuming of course that your newest-cord is at least of the same quality as the older-cord.)
__ I also very much recommend that everyone who adapts a computer-cord for replacing the stock twin-conductor/lead alt.cable, choose to use the GREEN-wire (in the computer power-cord) for connection to the (otherwise) grounded lead-ends of the two power-windings (on the alt.stator) ! - (As that's simply the most logical way to go, since 'green' is used for 'ground' in the stock-system!)
That way, more options can be chosen for wiring a new power/charging-system ! _ Such as, simply converting to use the stock electronic-box of either the wide-case or bevel-twin models (for example) !


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob

[tricolormonster]

thanks Bob. Good idea.

Excuse the electrical novice here, but does that mean when I re-solder the now 3 leads back, that I put the green & black together for the black wire, and the white for the red wire?


And if I'm not upgrading the elec system now, just cap the green on the other end?
stu

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" but does that mean when I re-solder the now 3 leads back, that I put the green & black together for the black wire, and the white for the red wire? "

____ NO, not really... However, that idea would only be most logical IF you were intending to leave your alternator stator-windings left internally-grounded, as is stock.
The extra/green-wire ought to have it's very-own function ! - (THAT will be covered further.)
____ Stu, it seems that you have one of the very rare n-c 6-pole alternators with a twin-conductor alt.cable which has 1-Red & 1-Black pair of wire-leads, instead of the (far more common) pair of Yellow wire-leads, as is stock with most 60w.alternators. _ Do you have any pictures to show exactly what you have?
__ Anyhow, (as already mentioned by Jeff), you really ought to do some reading of the various posts within the thread(s) on the topic of modifying your alt.stator wiring !
__ Besides the pair of wires which are connected to your stator - (one each to each of the stator's two coil-windings), the stator also has the opposite-ends of each of the two alt.power-windings grounded to the stator-plate...
Now that you're going to replace your old/deteriorating alt.wire-leads, you'll then have the opportunity to unsolder those lead-ends from the stator-plate and reconnect them to the GREEN-wire instead. _ And that will then conveniently allow you to possibly use a host of different power-systems whenever so chosen !
And until you care to make any other modifications to your otherwise stock system, you can simply connect the outer-end of the additional GREEN-wire to a preferred grounding-point location (near battery [or whatever], as Ducati also used green-wires for their Ground-connections) ! _ That added modification alone offers a slight advantage over the stock grounding-system, and also allows you to take better advantage of the fact that the computer-cord has an extra (otherwise unneeded) wire, for your needs !


" And if I'm not upgrading the elec system now, just cap the green on the other end? "

____ You should now understand why the GREEN-wire (of the computer-cord) should be grounded (and not capped-off).


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[tricolormonster]

Thanks again Bob.

I think I got it. I've included a pic this time. So where I marked new green, unsolder and connect to green wire, right?
Also, do I need to worry about high temps and the cord? My best one is only rated to 105°F.
If I decided to make my own harness, any idea where to get the Hi-Temp Sheathing?

stator.jpg

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" So where I marked new green, unsolder and connect to green wire, right? "

____ That's right,, that stock grounded solder-point (for that pair of alt.lead-ends) must be ungrounded and connected to your new wire, and also be sure that pair of power-winding lead-ends are both also isolated from ground.


" Also, do I need to worry about high temps and the cord? My best one is only rated to 105°F. "

____ Are you sure that's 105-degrees "F" and not 'C' ?
__ The motor-casing temperature ought to be expected to reach up to as high as 220-F, although 180-F is all the higher that it should get to normally.


" If I decided to make my own harness, any idea where to get the Hi-Temp Sheathing? "

____ I'd think that most auto-parts stores would handle suitable tubing which could be used for your conduit-sheathing of your new wire-cable.


____ Have you found any of the other thread-topics which cover anything about this project-job?
On page-2 of this 'Ducati Singles Talk' section, there's at least a couple related threads for you to check-out.
Please ask any question (which any of them may bring-up), from within such other thread.


Tillater,
-Bob

[tricolormonster]

Thanks again. I have been reading the other threads, but since, my goal is just to replace the Alt. wire at this time and get it running, I'm just taking notes for the future. Plus the language of electrics is not my native language.

I figured that since I was there, I'd go ahead and add the 3 wire setup like you suggested.

Once everything is running, I may re-visit the electrics.

Great site, and great info from great peeps.

stu