Can you take the case to a mechanic and use their blind bearing puller ?
I’ve never had a hard time removing that bearing with a blind bearing puller.
Graeme
crankcase wont split
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Re: crankcase wont split
UPDATE
As promised, an update on the removal of the blind, gearbox input shaft bearing from the offside crankcase.
Today, I paid a visit to a new welding/fabrication business, just down the road in Perth, Scotland. Marc had a shufty at the bearing and case and proceeded to weld the head and 10mm stub of the 10mm bolt that I supplied to the inner race of the offending bearing. I was told "No charge", but slipped the man a fiver for his gas and time.
Got home and fired up the fan oven to 110°C, popped the case in and gave it 30 minutes to warm through after the thermostat went 'OFF'. Hauled the case out of the oven, put it on the Black&Decker "Playmate", with some 2" wood blocks beneath it and used a straight sided punch through the pushrod seal hole and a trusted 2lb kinetic energy device to remove the bearing, with two blows! A good result.
Now to clean up the case, remove the wee bit of weld splatter and then give the case a good srub in plenty of hot water, with industrial cleaner, followed by a good flush in all the orifices using the garden hose. Then check all the galleries and thread holes for hidden/stuck nasties that might need winkling out, before another wash routine.
The attached images give some idea of the condition of the inside of the engine on stripping, with only 1,400 miles indicated on the speedo and Nigel Lacey assessing maybe as little as 1,000 miles use from the presence of factory grinding marks still on the crankpin. Followed by a "before" and "after" shot of the bearing removal.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Good health, Bill
As promised, an update on the removal of the blind, gearbox input shaft bearing from the offside crankcase.
Today, I paid a visit to a new welding/fabrication business, just down the road in Perth, Scotland. Marc had a shufty at the bearing and case and proceeded to weld the head and 10mm stub of the 10mm bolt that I supplied to the inner race of the offending bearing. I was told "No charge", but slipped the man a fiver for his gas and time.
Got home and fired up the fan oven to 110°C, popped the case in and gave it 30 minutes to warm through after the thermostat went 'OFF'. Hauled the case out of the oven, put it on the Black&Decker "Playmate", with some 2" wood blocks beneath it and used a straight sided punch through the pushrod seal hole and a trusted 2lb kinetic energy device to remove the bearing, with two blows! A good result.
Now to clean up the case, remove the wee bit of weld splatter and then give the case a good srub in plenty of hot water, with industrial cleaner, followed by a good flush in all the orifices using the garden hose. Then check all the galleries and thread holes for hidden/stuck nasties that might need winkling out, before another wash routine.
The attached images give some idea of the condition of the inside of the engine on stripping, with only 1,400 miles indicated on the speedo and Nigel Lacey assessing maybe as little as 1,000 miles use from the presence of factory grinding marks still on the crankpin. Followed by a "before" and "after" shot of the bearing removal.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Good health, Bill
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Re: crankcase wont split
Another way is to weld a long bolt so the threaded part is inwards.
Then a nut and plate can be used to pull the bearing out.
Worked for me.
Then a nut and plate can be used to pull the bearing out.
Worked for me.
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Re: crankcase wont split
Well done Bill. You know the old saying: 'If at first you don't succeed'. Those cases look like new, you will end up with a great bike when all is done.
Cheers,
Colin
Cheers,
Colin
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Re: crankcase wont split
Now get that bearing cleaned up and back in again "waste not, want not"
Cheers,
George
Cheers,
George
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Re: crankcase wont split
Persevering pays Bill. Onwards and upwards. On to the next problem to be solved
George Essex UK
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Re: crankcase wont split
Evening to you All,
Jordan, initially did that, but due to the neighbours weld, combined with the hardened steel of the bearing inner race, all that I succeded in doing was snapping the welds/flaking the metal of the inner race, when tightening the nut!
George, as for the cleaning the bearing up, it were tight and by the time it had ingested cleaning fluids, brush bristles, Scothbrite fibres and flakes of hardened steel, it were solid.
Not as bad as these ¼" balls from the clutch pushrod assembly! After less than 2,000 miles? No wonder the clutch wouldn't adjust!
Good health, Bill
Jordan, initially did that, but due to the neighbours weld, combined with the hardened steel of the bearing inner race, all that I succeded in doing was snapping the welds/flaking the metal of the inner race, when tightening the nut!
George, as for the cleaning the bearing up, it were tight and by the time it had ingested cleaning fluids, brush bristles, Scothbrite fibres and flakes of hardened steel, it were solid.
Not as bad as these ¼" balls from the clutch pushrod assembly! After less than 2,000 miles? No wonder the clutch wouldn't adjust!
Good health, Bill
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