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Hello all,

While waiting for engine bits to re-appear, I thought I'd strip some other bits down. Front end this afternoon. Will post about rear hub cush drive later.
One fork leg is not shifting from the top yoke at all. Both top plugs came out reasonably easily and the left-hand leg came free as I tapped the stem down through the top yoke. All the steering balls fell out, but I was going to replace them anyway...........
The right-hand leg won't move. I've tried refitting the top plug with a couple of threads showing at tapping on the top. At the moment it's soaking in a bit of WD40, and my next step will be the sledgehammer I think. Unless any better suggestions?

Ian

Use a chisel to spread the yoke ,you have released the pinch bolt?. Use a hot air gun to heat and expand the top yoke.

Yes, undid the bottom yoke pinch bolts and opened up the slot a bit. It's stuck in the top yoke. A bit of heat is a good idea, but will need to a gentle application of the blowlamp as I don't have a hot air gun. I suspect the daughter's hairdryer won't do much.

A press is less risky than a hammer.

I had hell of a job removing the old stanchions. Galvanic corrosion really formed a strong bond.
Definitely heat, careful prising of the gap and wiggling from the bottom of the stanchion..... it gave it up eventually.

Make sure all the parts are super clean and corrosion removed before reassembly.

Good luck.

I had most problems getting them back into the Alloy top Yoke ,has to be a trick to do it without the works puller.

She's out now. I read the reply about using a press (Jordan) and although we have a press at work I thought it might be tricky to get it in position as the frame is still attached! Anyway, it made me think about a more controlled application of force than the sledgehammer. I was able to slide the stem down a bit as the stanchion was free in the bottom yoke. This allowed the headlamp bracket to drop down enough to get my 3-leg puller on. Cable tie in the photo is to keep the legs from flying off, as the bottom of the yoke is not flat. Next step will to try and pull the stanchions out of the sliders.

Before you pull the staunchions from the sliders remove the allen bolts from the bottoms. A forked tool can be made up to stop the dampers turning.

Bevel bob wrote:Before you pull the staunchions from the sliders remove the allen bolts from the bottoms. A forked tool can be made up to stop the dampers turning.

I read about that tool in the workshop manual. Do you have any dimensions so I can make something?

The usual thing is to get a length of threaded rod and form a vee cut in the end. I managed to get by with several 3/8" drive long socket extensions and a small worn screwdriver bit that jammed into one side of the damper tube. The Damper tube has a cross bar set into the end which the proper tool locks onto.Without this the whole thing just turns and does not allow the allen bolt to come out. Its worth removing the dampa valve to check the balls are working. the circlip is a pain, mine had been removed before so the previous numbnuts could put it all in upside down!.To ease the removal of the clip a saw cut was made in the staunchion down to the bottom of the clip groove, This worked so I can't complain!.