175TS forks

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ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Fri Mar 16, 2018 6:28 pm

Hello all,

While waiting for engine bits to re-appear, I thought I'd strip some other bits down. Front end this afternoon. Will post about rear hub cush drive later.
One fork leg is not shifting from the top yoke at all. Both top plugs came out reasonably easily and the left-hand leg came free as I tapped the stem down through the top yoke. All the steering balls fell out, but I was going to replace them anyway...........
The right-hand leg won't move. I've tried refitting the top plug with a couple of threads showing at tapping on the top. At the moment it's soaking in a bit of WD40, and my next step will be the sledgehammer I think. Unless any better suggestions?

Ian

Bevel bob
Posts: 1042
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Bevel bob » Fri Mar 16, 2018 7:41 pm

Use a chisel to spread the yoke ,you have released the pinch bolt?. Use a hot air gun to heat and expand the top yoke.

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:40 pm

Yes, undid the bottom yoke pinch bolts and opened up the slot a bit. It's stuck in the top yoke. A bit of heat is a good idea, but will need to a gentle application of the blowlamp as I don't have a hot air gun. I suspect the daughter's hairdryer won't do much.

Jordan
Posts: 1380
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:29 am

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Jordan » Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:46 pm

A press is less risky than a hammer.

el_guru
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:10 am

Re: 175TS forks

Postby el_guru » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:19 pm

I had hell of a job removing the old stanchions. Galvanic corrosion really formed a strong bond.
Definitely heat, careful prising of the gap and wiggling from the bottom of the stanchion..... it gave it up eventually.

Make sure all the parts are super clean and corrosion removed before reassembly.

Good luck.

Bevel bob
Posts: 1042
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Bevel bob » Sat Mar 17, 2018 5:21 pm

I had most problems getting them back into the Alloy top Yoke ,has to be a trick to do it without the works puller.

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Sat Mar 17, 2018 5:33 pm

She's out now. I read the reply about using a press (Jordan) and although we have a press at work I thought it might be tricky to get it in position as the frame is still attached! Anyway, it made me think about a more controlled application of force than the sledgehammer. I was able to slide the stem down a bit as the stanchion was free in the bottom yoke. This allowed the headlamp bracket to drop down enough to get my 3-leg puller on. Cable tie in the photo is to keep the legs from flying off, as the bottom of the yoke is not flat. Next step will to try and pull the stanchions out of the sliders.

DSCF5476small.jpg
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Bevel bob
Posts: 1042
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Bevel bob » Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:34 pm

Before you pull the staunchions from the sliders remove the allen bolts from the bottoms. A forked tool can be made up to stop the dampers turning.

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:14 am

Bevel bob wrote:Before you pull the staunchions from the sliders remove the allen bolts from the bottoms. A forked tool can be made up to stop the dampers turning.

I read about that tool in the workshop manual. Do you have any dimensions so I can make something?

Bevel bob
Posts: 1042
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Bevel bob » Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:51 pm

The usual thing is to get a length of threaded rod and form a vee cut in the end. I managed to get by with several 3/8" drive long socket extensions and a small worn screwdriver bit that jammed into one side of the damper tube. The Damper tube has a cross bar set into the end which the proper tool locks onto.Without this the whole thing just turns and does not allow the allen bolt to come out. Its worth removing the dampa valve to check the balls are working. the circlip is a pain, mine had been removed before so the previous numbnuts could put it all in upside down!.To ease the removal of the clip a saw cut was made in the staunchion down to the bottom of the clip groove, This worked so I can't complain!.


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