175TS forks

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ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:35 pm

Thanks, I'll have a look down inside to see if I can figure it out. Both forks are seized anyway and don't seem to have any oil in, so could be in for more fun.

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Sun Apr 08, 2018 7:56 pm

Got the forks apart now. Made a tool to hold the damper rod using a bit of old 6mm rod I had lying around. The stanchions were seized into the sliders, so I used some heat and my high-lift jack to pull them apart. I can now see that they have got moisture in so the chrome on the part inside the slider is pitted, so they need replacing or re-chroming.
A couple of questions.
1. Is there anything holding the lower steering race onto the stem? I can't see anything but don't want to apply to much force until I'm sure.
DSCF5472small.jpg

2. What finish did the damper pistons have when new? I think these need replacing, but as I can't find any I might have to get them made from stainless or similar.
DSCF5522small.jpg
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Bevel bob
Posts: 1042
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Bevel bob » Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:17 pm

Thats not the dampa, its a stop for the topping out springs which may have been left out as they make re-fitting the forks difficult without a puller. The dampers are on the bottoms of the steel staunchions held in with a very tricky circlip. If the balls are all in there ,look with a torch, I would not disturb if the stuanchions are re-usable.The topping springs, Dampa bodywashers and wire circlips can be got from Classic Ducati, but I would try to re-use the clips as new ones are not any good (in my opinion).
Last edited by Bevel bob on Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Jordan
Posts: 1380
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:29 am

Re: 175TS forks

Postby Jordan » Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:30 pm

"Is there anything holding the lower steering race onto the stem?"

It's an interference fit, not screwed on or anything.
I've never seen any other system used on any motorbike.

double diamond
Posts: 555
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:20 am

Re: 175TS forks

Postby double diamond » Mon Apr 09, 2018 5:26 pm

Ian,

The damper rod/piston are simply mild steel. The front fork is a very basic, unsophisticated design so nothing very high tech in there. The fork tubes aren’t hard chromed so they rust and wear from the external springs rubbing on the tube. Best you can hope for is that the sliders are serviceable. You can cut or drill a hole in the end of the fork tube in order to remove the clip that retains damper valve. You could have the tubes hard chromed if they aren’t bent or pitted too badly but sounds like yours are pretty rough. There are new hard chromed tubes available.

You should be able to tap the lower race off with a brass drift.

Matt

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:37 pm

Thanks Jordan & Matt. Lower race is off now, but took a blast from the blow torch and a bit more than a "tap" to shift it.

Will look into getting stanchions rechromed, although I have seen replacements advertised.

Will try and clean up damper pistons if they're only mild steel. One of them looks a bit shiny as if it's chromed, but must be just from rubbing on inside of stanchion.

ranton_rambler
Posts: 439
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:33 am
Location: Stafford UK

Re: 175TS forks

Postby ranton_rambler » Fri Apr 13, 2018 5:48 pm

All apart now, and stanchions sent off for re-grind and re-chrome. Seems to be more economical option than replacements as long as the rust pits are not too deep.
Just sorting out the front-end parts that need to be re-painted now and I can see that the little cable guide from the back of the right-hand shroud is missing. The left-hand one looks quite small (around 10mm inside diameter), but that would be too small for the speedo cable to fit through I think.
Anyone able to tell me the correct size for the right-hand, and then I can make one and weld it on.

Ian


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