1969 desmo 350 valuation

[djstedman]

Been looking for a desmo single for some time , found one that is in need of repair/restoration, great starting point. I Haven’t see many demso models, I.e. not mark3, and have no clue on it’s value as is. What should one expect to pay for one in this condition?

Numbers match last registration, no title, Compression is good, gearbox moves through gears, all bits appear to be there, chrome is bad, but no rusting through issues.

[ducwiz]

This bike is a nice find, but seems to have undergone some modifications. Tank, front fender an handlebar were obviously taken from a SCR model.
https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-italian-motorcycles/ducati-350-zmwz13mjzbea shows how a 350 desmo of theis type should appear. Very early bikes came with a twin filler tank: http://www.webgrafex.com/roundcase/ducati/1968%20Ducati%20350%20Desmo%20Twin%20Filller.html. Afaik, in Europe, the 350 Desmo was always equipped with clip-on handlebars.

Sorry, I am not familiar with current prices, especially not those in the US.

cheers Hans

[djstedman]

Hans- thanks.

Wonder if the tank isn’t original , as the advertisement shows that scrambler tanks were available on these models.

Doug

[double diamond]

The example in your pictures is typical USA market specification. Many appear to have been sold with the scrambler tank and most US models had high handlebars. The Veglia tach is a plus. The risk you take with buying a Ducati single in this condition is the condition of the desmo valve gear. If the engine didn’t get regular oil changes or adequate attention paid to oil level, the valve gear can be starved for oil. The cam may suffer premature wear as well as the rocker arm pads, sometimes to the point of wearing through the hard chrome plating. If valve clearance wasn’t maintained properly on opening and closing rocker arms, the cam/rockers may suffer from insufficient clearance. An indication of the care the engine was given is the condition of the oil. If the oil is below the minimum level and black, I would be wary. Presence of water in the oil is a bad sign as well. It’s difficult to ascertain the condition of the rocker arms and cam without disassembly but you at least want to remove a valve cover and have a look at the valve gear. Presuming what you find is satisfactory to you and considering the overall condition, originality and specification of this example, I would say you’re looking at $3500 - $5000 in the US domestic market (i.e. seller is willing to ship in the USA), potentially a bit more if seller will ship internationally. If seller wants a local sale, and depending on what part of the country you’re in, you’ll have to gauge your local market and determine what kind of prospects the seller has. This presumes the seller is reasonably informed on what s/he has and holds a realistic perception of value. Caveat emptor!

[djstedman]

Double diamond- thanks for your tips on determining condition and valuation. When I initially looked at the desmo, I was still unsure it being a desmo due to the tank, so we took off the exhaust valve cover. The oil under the hairpin Springs looks clean, but I didn’t take a look at the oil in the sump, will plan to do that when I return next week.

As for what to look for in the rocker box.. are the rocker arm pads inspectable? What else could I determine from closer inspection? See photo taken

[Bevel bob]

Rust means you may need a new cam /rocker, and crank re-build with new Big end/rod plus bearings, Half the cost of the bike, but this is normal if you are a realist.

[ducwiz]

...

As for what to look for in the rocker box.. are the rocker arm pads inspectable? What else could I determine from closer inspection? See photo taken

Have you already measured tall four present valve(rocker) clearances? This might tell you something about the maintenance state of the engine, or even possible wear.

Yes, the opening rocker arms can be taken out for inspection of the "pads". For the closers, the job is a bit tricky though. You need a simple puller tool for the rocker arm axles. These have M4 threads enabling removal. You can make the tool from a 4mm all-thread rod, two 4mm (countered) nuts and a piece of iron with considerable weight and a 4mm hole drilled through. Start with the opening rockers. But don't refrain from setting the camshaft into TDC position (combustion stroke) prior to taking the camshaft bearing block out from it's seat in the head. And don't mix up or loose the plain washers on each side of a rocker arm; they define the rocker arm's laterial positions and free play.

Btw, the "pads" were made by electroplating with hard-chrome material.

cheers Hans

[double diamond]

Short of disassembling the head (which the seller might not want to get into), you can check valve clearance and inspect the surface of the cam. Closing rockers should be zero clearance but you should be able to detect that the rocker is not less than zero. The opening rocker should have play when the valve is closed; you can look up the recommended clearance and check for that but if the rocker has a few thousandths of clearance, give it a pass. If you shine a flashlight inside the head (remove that rubber baffle above the opening rocker) you’ll be able to see the cam lobes; they aren’t shrouded like on a spring head. Have a look at the tips of the opening lobes and the transition point of closed to opening on the closing lobes. These shouldn’t show any scoring or grooves. Have a look at the entire circumference of the lobes. The base circle of the opening lobes should have no evidence of contact with the rocker arm; there should only be contact on the opening/closing ramps and the tips of the lobes. The closing ramps should show little evidence of contact with the cam. There will probably be some evidence of contact at the transition from the closed profile to opening but this should be minimal if valve clearance has been maintained. The view of the inside of the head looks good as far as how clean it is in there, the condition of the oil and absence of rust. I wouldn’t be too concerned with the rust on the spring keeper and the spring anchor plate. I would be a little concerned that the air filter boot is missing, leaving the carb open to the elements. You might want to shine a flashlight down the intake (remove the carb if possible) and verify there is nothing untoward in the intake port/valve. Glad you found it and intend to keep it intact. I’ve seen too many Desmos getting parted out on ebay lately. Matt

[djstedman]

All who responded to my valuation thread, thank you as your guidance has enabled me to purchase a fine example for a fair price to both parties involved!

One of the amazing things is I’ve been looking for one for a few years and this one was found less thann 10 blocks from my house! Once I brought the machine home, I went trough the carb as it was seized. After cleaning it out and lubing the cable, I noticed the throttle chain was pretty worn as the pins had substantial play. It seems like every ducati I’ve ever worked on has had a clapped out chain. Do these wear rather fast? The mileage on the odometer is just under 4500 miles, seems like the chain should last way longer than that... maybe the motorcycle has more mileage than shown, I have not run it down the road to see if the speedometer is still working, if it is not I would certainly not trust the odometer readings.
As for the overall condition I am super happy, no stripped threads so far, the rocker clearances were as expected and started after just a few hrs of fettling. It may need a timing adjustment as it seems excessively prone to kick back.

It needs a few parts which I will put a request in the part section of the classifieds if anyone can help out please respond!

As for the tin tag, what is the best way to prevent it from deteriorating further, it hangs of on the right and left edge and needs to be reattached before it gets ripped.. Also is there a difference between a Desmo and MK3 Desmo?

Doug[list=][/list]